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		<title>TurboDodge.Com - Turbo Dodge forum for Turbo Mopars, Shelbys, Daytona, SRT-4, PT Cruiser, Omni and more! - Turbo Dodge Help</title>
		<link>http://www.turbododge.com/forums/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Urgent help when something goes wrong and you can't figure out what the problem is. Troubleshooting help and the place to post when you're stuck with a broken car and have to get to work the next day.]]></description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:47:31 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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		<ttl>60</ttl>
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			<title>TurboDodge.Com - Turbo Dodge forum for Turbo Mopars, Shelbys, Daytona, SRT-4, PT Cruiser, Omni and more! - Turbo Dodge Help</title>
			<link>http://www.turbododge.com/forums/</link>
		</image>
		<item>
			<title>3 mini vac lines up top?</title>
			<link>http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/318212-3-mini-vac-lines-up-top.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:29:38 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a "start to boost then cut out" problem. ive read  tons of previous forums on this, and figured it was my lines. all of them are hooked up correctly, EXCEPT one is broken. It is one of the tiny lines that run just behind the valve cover. there is no sucktion on it at iddle, and it is super...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a &quot;start to boost then cut out&quot; problem. ive read  tons of previous forums on this, and figured it was my lines. all of them are hooked up correctly, EXCEPT one is broken. It is one of the tiny lines that run just behind the valve cover. there is no sucktion on it at iddle, and it is super small. so i thought it could'nt cause my cut out. Any ideas? Im driving a t1 2.2 charger, rebuilt bottom up, 2.5 head, upgraded computer... that kind of stuff. Thanks all mopar pals.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f14/">Turbo Dodge Help</category>
			<dc:creator>Carlos Aragon</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/318212-3-mini-vac-lines-up-top.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Setting correct fuel pressure</title>
			<link>http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/318118-setting-correct-fuel-pressure.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 15:49:57 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>The mark were shooting for stock is 55psi right? I just put an accufab with all AN lines, billet rail in my lebaron. I found some leaks, and fixed them. What happens now is that I prime the pump and it reads pressure, then it slowly drops.after 5-10 mins it was down to 20psi. I want to say this...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>The mark were shooting for stock is 55psi right? I just put an accufab with all AN lines, billet rail in my lebaron. I found some leaks, and fixed them. What happens now is that I prime the pump and it reads pressure, then it slowly drops.after 5-10 mins it was down to 20psi. I want to say this isnt a problem, since the pump will be running all the time and should maintain pressure. but should I be concerned? I dont see, smell or find any fuel expelled anywhere in the engine bay and thats after priming a bunch of times.is slow depressurization normal in our cars?<br />
<br />
All this was done with cranking and stopping, not running the engine. I wanted to find my leaks before allowing spark to happen. <br />
<br />
Thanks</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f14/">Turbo Dodge Help</category>
			<dc:creator>Buckracer</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/318118-setting-correct-fuel-pressure.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>2.2 Turbo Stalls at Speed</title>
			<link>http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/318079-2-2-turbo-stalls-speed.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 03:30:14 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a street legal sand rail with a 2.2 Turbo engine out of an 87 Laser.  All of the original electronics were swapped into the sand rail. 
 
It has always intermittently "cut-out" for a split second while driving a constant speed.  Not very often, maybe a couple of times on a 3 hour drive.  It...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a street legal sand rail with a 2.2 Turbo engine out of an 87 Laser.  All of the original electronics were swapped into the sand rail.<br />
<br />
It has always intermittently &quot;cut-out&quot; for a split second while driving a constant speed.  Not very often, maybe a couple of times on a 3 hour drive.  It recently began stalling altogether at highway speed.  I can be cruising along at 55mph and the engine will stall without warning.  It doesn't sputter, or shake, it just stalls like you turned the key off.  If I clutch it and hit the starter, it will fire back up and run fine.<br />
<br />
I tuned it up recently with new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor.  No effect.<br />
<br />
Has anyone ever had this problem with a 2.2 turbo?<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
John</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f14/">Turbo Dodge Help</category>
			<dc:creator>rumschl1</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/318079-2-2-turbo-stalls-speed.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>turbo z, beat by 3.1l chevy</title>
			<link>http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/318018-turbo-z-beat-3-1l-chevy.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 10:21:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[hey guys i have a wierd problem with my 85 auto turbo z, i thought it was fast but not really. After racing with my girlfriend i got very upset becouse she beat me with a 96 buick skylark auto 3.1.:bash: i hit the gas and the needle on the boost guage bounced from vaccuum to 14"which it had no more...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>hey guys i have a wierd problem with my 85 auto turbo z, i thought it was fast but not really. After racing with my girlfriend i got very upset becouse she beat me with a 96 buick skylark auto 3.1.:bash: i hit the gas and the needle on the boost guage bounced from vaccuum to 14&quot;which it had no more room to travel&quot; no matter what i did, it didnt have any power like other turbo cars ive driven. i checked to see if it was over boosting and cant find anything wrong with it. are these cars really that slow or is it just my car. The car has 87xxxkm and the car was always stored in a garage by some old guy.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f14/">Turbo Dodge Help</category>
			<dc:creator>catch23.5</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/318018-turbo-z-beat-3-1l-chevy.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Code 32 EGR Questions?</title>
			<link>http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/317975-code-32-egr-questions.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:25:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Ok my 94 Shadow 2.2L N/A has been running werid it will missfire from time to time and Its got to were the exhaust stinks (cat converter smell) and it has been laying down alot! going up hills and just normail driving. I was driving it to work today and the CEL so I come home and pull the codes...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Ok my 94 Shadow 2.2L N/A has been running werid it will missfire from time to time and Its got to were the exhaust stinks (cat converter smell) and it has been laying down alot! going up hills and just normail driving. I was driving it to work today and the CEL so I come home and pull the codes which are: in order 12 Battery Disconnect, 32 EGR System Failure or EGR Solenoid Circuit, 33 A/C Clutch Relay Circuit, 22 ECT Sensor Voltage Low or ECT Sensor Voltage High and 55 Completion of Diagnostic Trouble Code Display on MIL.<br />
Code:<br />
12) I have had the battery disconnected to install fuel pump<br />
32) ????żżżż<br />
33) Car doesnt have A/C from factory (shes a base model)<br />
22) Had the coolant sensor unpluged to adjust timing<br />
55) The End!<br />
My question is can the EGR system cause my drivability problems? :TD2:</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f14/">Turbo Dodge Help</category>
			<dc:creator>t-scene</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/317975-code-32-egr-questions.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Limmited power light</title>
			<link>http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/317968-limmited-power-light.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 21:54:40 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Have an 84 Daytona turbo 2.2, that had partly burned harness, fixed bunred parts, and idles great, but any time that I try to accelerate, not even under boost, the limmited power light comes on and it feels like theres no power at all, where should I start assuming fuel pressure is okay, the turbo...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Have an 84 Daytona turbo 2.2, that had partly burned harness, fixed bunred parts, and idles great, but any time that I try to accelerate, not even under boost, the limmited power light comes on and it feels like theres no power at all, where should I start assuming fuel pressure is okay, the turbo isn't wiped, and that it has good compression? Thanks</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f14/">Turbo Dodge Help</category>
			<dc:creator>89cargocaravan</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/317968-limmited-power-light.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>92 daytona stalls</title>
			<link>http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/317946-92-daytona-stalls.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 15:29:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I thought I had the prblem fixed but it came back yestersday..  My 92 daytona 2,5L TBI auto trans Vin K  seems to want to stall out while driving once the tank is half a tank or less.. it is a hard start after it stalls but if you wait a few minutes it will start again.. I bought enough gas to push...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I thought I had the prblem fixed but it came back yestersday..  My 92 daytona 2,5L TBI auto trans Vin K  seems to want to stall out while driving once the tank is half a tank or less.. it is a hard start after it stalls but if you wait a few minutes it will start again.. I bought enough gas to push the gas needle over half a tank to 3/4 tank car seemed to run fine then.. I have replaced distrib cap,plugs,wires, ingition rotor,O2 senser,thermostate... The gas mileage is very poor... it will use 1/4 tank to drive 30miles.. Not getting any codes from dash so I assume my problem is now a fuel prob? I don't know where to start.. I don't know if pump is going bad, TPS IS BAD or some other sensor..  thanks for any help... btw I don't have a volt reader so I can't check voltage... thanks again..</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f14/">Turbo Dodge Help</category>
			<dc:creator>creeper71</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/317946-92-daytona-stalls.html</guid>
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			<title>oil dripping from exhaust pipe</title>
			<link>http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/317945-oil-dripping-exhaust-pipe.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 15:26:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I just replaced my headgasket on a 90 daytona t1 and took it for a short drive. The car boosted to about 7psi and ran good. I was pulling into my block when smoke started pouring out of the exhaust pipe and from under the hood. I lugged the car into the drivway and saw oil dripping out of the tail...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I just replaced my headgasket on a 90 daytona t1 and took it for a short drive. The car boosted to about 7psi and ran good. I was pulling into my block when smoke started pouring out of the exhaust pipe and from under the hood. I lugged the car into the drivway and saw oil dripping out of the tail pipe.  I did a compretion test all cylinders are between 130-140lbs. what happend? Thanks for any help</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f14/">Turbo Dodge Help</category>
			<dc:creator>crashmydaytona</dc:creator>
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			<title>Mopar has Repopped shift linkages for rod shifted cars</title>
			<link>http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/317927-mopar-has-repopped-shift-linkages-rod.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 05:00:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Evidence: 
Image: http://i35.tinypic.com/16ht4rs.jpg  
Image: http://i38.tinypic.com/2yvkll5.jpg  
Seen a lot of people asking for the rod linkage. 
Well there ya go 
Brand new. 
Bought 2 sets for the shelby 
Q</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Evidence:<br />
<img src="http://i35.tinypic.com/16ht4rs.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<img src="http://i38.tinypic.com/2yvkll5.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
Seen a lot of people asking for the rod linkage.<br />
Well there ya go<br />
Brand new.<br />
Bought 2 sets for the shelby<br />
Q</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f14/">Turbo Dodge Help</category>
			<dc:creator>turbokid</dc:creator>
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			<title>Short Clutch Engagement</title>
			<link>http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/317834-short-clutch-engagement.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 06:40:53 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I bought a 1991 Dodge Shadow ES Turbo. 
 
The clutch feels like it literally has less than an inch of travel between engaged and disengaged. The pedal is also really hard to push compared to my 1993 Shadow TBI. The car is fairly hard to start moving but otherwise it has no other problems regarding...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I bought a 1991 Dodge Shadow ES Turbo.<br />
<br />
The clutch feels like it literally has less than an inch of travel between engaged and disengaged. The pedal is also really hard to push compared to my 1993 Shadow TBI. The car is fairly hard to start moving but otherwise it has no other problems regarding the transmission. What are some things I can look at for this?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f14/">Turbo Dodge Help</category>
			<dc:creator>oscar_wilde</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/317834-short-clutch-engagement.html</guid>
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			<title>Laying down?</title>
			<link>http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/317779-laying-down.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 20:20:40 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Ok I finally got my missfire/running rich problem taken care of on my Shadow (replaced map tps o2 plugs wires coil dist.pick up fuel injector fuel press. reg. fuel pump timming belt cat.conveter and muffler) 
its running great until you try to shift going up a hill then it boggs down pretty bad...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Ok I finally got my missfire/running rich problem taken care of on my Shadow (replaced map tps o2 plugs wires coil dist.pick up fuel injector fuel press. reg. fuel pump timming belt cat.conveter and muffler)<br />
its running great until you try to shift going up a hill then it boggs down pretty bad then when you get to the top it will pick up it does this when you shift gears but not as bad  if you wind them out its ok but if you shift out of first gear at say 10mph into 2nd it will do it for a sec. then pick up. I set the timing but could it be out just enough todo that?<br />
or what could cause it</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f14/">Turbo Dodge Help</category>
			<dc:creator>t-scene</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/317779-laying-down.html</guid>
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			<title>Rebuilt 2.2 turbo installed problems... Help Please!</title>
			<link>http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/317755-rebuilt-2-2-turbo-installed-problems.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 07:03:36 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>The 2.2 turbo engine in my 86 LeBaron Mark Cross Special Convertible was professionally rebuilt, balanced, lightly ported. New FWD polished ported exhaust, FWD rebuilt the turbo and the stock 2 1/4 swing valve was upgraded to 2 1/2. FWD 2 1/2 mandrel bend down pipe and full mandrel bend exhaust....</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>The 2.2 turbo engine in my 86 LeBaron Mark Cross Special Convertible was professionally rebuilt, balanced, lightly ported. New FWD polished ported exhaust, FWD rebuilt the turbo and the stock 2 1/4 swing valve was upgraded to 2 1/2. FWD 2 1/2 mandrel bend down pipe and full mandrel bend exhaust. New cat and turbo muffler. I had the timing set 2 degrees from stock and bought a reduction pully and new belts: All the good stuff from lessons that I have learned on this and other forums...<br />
<br />
Now it is finally all put back together and I have a few problems:<br />
<br />
1. There is a pretty loud exhaust leak that is coming from where the turbo bolts on to the exhaust manifold.<br />
<br />
2. The turbo sounds like a slide whistle when it winds up and spins down.<br />
If you speed up and then slow down it sounds like Weeeeeeeehhhhhhhhhhh.<br />
High pitched and nothing at all like before being rebuilt - and these other modifications. And the high pitched wind down lasts a long time. <br />
<br />
Can this turbo whine sound be coming out of the turbo exhaust leak? Seems unlikely. It sounds like it is coming from everywhere!<br />
<br />
3. The battery - a brand new heavy duty Die Hard - is not only not charging<br />
but seems to be discharging. [?] I started the car up at the shop that installed the new motor and drove it [for the first time in almost a year] less than five minutes to the shop that installed the new exhaust system.<br />
I parked, talked with the exhaust guy and when I got back in the car to pull it up on the rack the battery was down so low that it would not start the car!<br />
<br />
So: I know that the turbo is a pain to work on once ihe engine is back in the car. Any suggestions on removing/replacing the failing gasket or whatever is causing the exhaust leak?<br />
<br />
Any feedback on the high pitched turbo whine? In the short time that I drove the car I 'got on it' mildly a couple of times and was surprised at how much turbo lag there was. After all of the modifications - especially the larger swing valve and opened up exhaust - I expected much quicker spool up.<br />
<br />
There definitely was a much longer spool down. Whhheeeeeeeeeeeeeeee...<br />
<br />
Once this car is running correctly I have a FWD stage two computer, a set of Mopar hi/po wires and a shelby dodge boost guage to install. The idea all along has been to put this car together as a fun completely stock looking hopefully quick 'sleeper'. <br />
<br />
Thanks for reading all this. Any thoughts or ideas that might help sort out and fix these 'snags' will be very much appreciated!</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f14/">Turbo Dodge Help</category>
			<dc:creator>funatic</dc:creator>
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			<title>Over-heating?</title>
			<link>http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/317751-over-heating.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 04:30:47 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[This is very odd...The temperature here has just dropped to freezing, started my lebaron in the morning and the temp gauge just kept climbing, check guages light came on, then suddenly dropped to normal, I figured "replace thermostat".  Did that, burped it, used 180 degree t-stat, same thing.  My...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>This is very odd...The temperature here has just dropped to freezing, started my lebaron in the morning and the temp gauge just kept climbing, check guages light came on, then suddenly dropped to normal, I figured &quot;replace thermostat&quot;.  Did that, burped it, used 180 degree t-stat, same thing.  My engine is a 2.5 turbo.  Gas mileage has dropped, seems to be running very very rich.  Ideas?  This happend last year just before I stored her, but in spring all was good again.  Little help please...<br />
<br />
-Ono</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f14/">Turbo Dodge Help</category>
			<dc:creator>ono</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/317751-over-heating.html</guid>
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			<title>Need Help Please ASAP: Did I get the right inner tie rods?</title>
			<link>http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/317708-need-help-please-asap-did-i.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 18:31:59 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>So I got some MOOG inner tie rods, im going to be putting them in today, on the red tag it says only for like KWA or somthing sterring racks, what kind of rack do we have ? its in a  87 new yorker. Answer needed ASAP please.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So I got some MOOG inner tie rods, im going to be putting them in today, on the red tag it says only for like KWA or somthing sterring racks, what kind of rack do we have ? its in a  87 new yorker. Answer needed ASAP please.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f14/">Turbo Dodge Help</category>
			<dc:creator>87yorker</dc:creator>
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			<title>Re-Assembling soon. Have questions...</title>
			<link>http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/317683-re-assembling-soon-have-questions.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 07:00:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[:D I have a 1987 GLHS (#0896), that I will be re-assembling soon. I have the trans out(installing the a555), the cylinder head off(ported it and the intake and exhaust mannys), Installed the Lambros Race Engineering 500 cam, Got a Front Mount intercooler from FM(it's HUGE), with all aluminum,...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><font face="Times New Roman"><font size="4">:D I have a 1987 GLHS (#0896), that I will be re-assembling soon. I have the trans out<i>(installing the a555)</i>, the cylinder head off<i>(ported it and the intake and exhaust mannys)</i>, Installed the Lambros Race Engineering 500 cam, Got a Front Mount intercooler from FM<i>(it's HUGE)</i>, with all aluminum, mandrel bent, 2 1/2&quot; plumbing, Installing the 58mm TB, have +20's, MSD fuel rail with AFPR, FM Enforcer stage 1 turbo, Upgraded wastegate actuator can, Under drive pulley, MP stage II LM, TU cut out eliminator, Turbo Xcess BOV<i>(from FM)</i>, A/C delete bracket<i>(A/C gone obviously)</i>, etc... Are there any other parts I may need? Or are there any parts that you see as necessary at this point with what I already have?:confused:<br />
Now, I'm getting myself a good vacuum block. Does anyone have any suggestions on exactly how I should route my vacuum lines? I mean, Is there any particular way that better suits the vehicle for performance<i>(other than following the factory diagrams)</i>?<br />
Also, what fuel pressure should I run? What timing is best?<br />
Are these questions that can be answered from a distance? Or would one have to be there to actually set the tune? Are they a &quot;hit and miss&quot;, &quot;Trial and error&quot; type of deal?<br />
Basically, I'm looking for suggestions from those of you who have &quot;souped up&quot; several of the turbo dodges and have input for me to follow that will heed positive results in the performance of my car.<br />
MOSTLY, vacuum suggestions or diagrams<i>(factory or custom)</i>.<br />
I thank you all for your help in advance,<br />
Donnie:thumb:<br />
<a href="mailto:signsoflife22@comcast.net">signsoflife22@comcast.net</a></font></font></div>

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