13 psi or so.

[Dropbtm]

Just got an srt4 and it has a few mods I can see;gift from my wife.I can see it has a big CAI....at least 3+ inch in diameter.Exhaust is not stock,tips are huge and sound is definetly louder and deaper then stock.Has been to wet in the last 24hours that I have owned the car to climb under it.Car blows off when I am on it or rev it,which is nice.When I do get on it,seems to make about 13psi or so.Seems a little low to me.I drove some prior and I recall 15psi for boost.Thanks for the help....

[89daytonashelby]

13 seems normal for a stock car. The computer varies the boost depending on atmospheric conditons.

[Dropbtm]

Thanks for the reply.Have had car for a little while now and did some looking.BOV was very loud because valve itself was loose and leaking more the it should. Also,when I'm into boost at 1-10psi,car feels like nothing,then when I take it to the floor,it finally goes...and it does go at that point..All of my turbo cars in the past when its in boost,there is power.....not on this car.What do you think??

[blackbird]

Did the previous owner install an aftermarket BOV or is it the Mopar-style "blue plate" that installs to the turbo compressor between the factory surge/diverter (BOV) valve? If that was leaking the computer would probably try to up the boost to compensate. Like mentioned the NGC (Next Generation Controller) used in the SRT-4's is pretty adaptive and will alter boost quite a bit to achieve a desired torque goal.

The NGC has gear dependent boost and will run less in the lower gears (in addition to there also being less load on the engine) but if the car is feeling excessively sluggish one of the first things I'd check is for boost leaks. They're pretty common and can really sap power. A lot of people have built testers to pressurize the intake tract through the turbo but an easier way and one that's going to take about the same amount of time is to just go through and redo everything from the compressor outlet on the turbo to the throttle body. What I like to do is start at the turbo and remove all the hoses/pipes, clean them out, then reinstall as I work my way through the system. Just tightening the clamps down is not always enough. One of the worst spots of leaks for example is the coupler right off the turbo. The clamp will get crooked and no matter how tight you tighten it down when you get into boost it will still leak and will require you to loosen and reseat it. As you're going through the car I'd also inspect and zip tie all the vacuum line connectors and work your way from under the intake manifold, over to the throttle body/solenoids, then back to the turbo and brake booster area.

Since you bought the car used that opens you up to a lot of other potential issues since it was already modified. The number one thing I'd try to do is assess what you have first before trying to figure out if the car is behaving correctly. If you can talk to the previous owner and get a list of what was done to the car that would be best. If not you could search some of the internet forums for people in your area to see if you can figure out if the person who owned it before posted online. If you can't find the history on it (and even if you can) it might be good to see if there's some local SRT-4 meets in your area that another owner could look over the car and spot some of the common modifications. And if you can't and since you've owned a turbocharged car before you could and should go over the car underhood with a fine tooth comb and use internet resources to verify if something is stock or modified (reason I suggest this last is that there a lot of modifications that look stock or can be hidden easily on these cars).

Eric H.

[Dropbtm]

Excellent response...I really appreciate it.The car has actually has been getting better since I posted. I reworked the cold side pipe and checked it for leaks to be safe.All seemed fine except the BOV was very loud.Found it to be pretty loose from the flange and looks a little warped.Not sure why.It is the factory valve,so I am not sure why it was messed with. I will check the rest of the piping and go from there.Car is still under warranty for 2,000 more miles.Any ideas of things to look for. Thanks again for all the help