spun rod bearing

[windtech]

Hey there I'm new to the site..I have an 05 srt4 and have had it parked for months. Spun a bearing and stopped driving it straight away, I have new factory standard bearings and will replace them engine in. I have detailed proceedure notes minus the final tourqe specs/proceedure for bearing caps/rod bolts. Could anyone help out with this. Thanks!

[UnaClocker]

The SRT4 rod bolts are utter crap. You should swap them out for ARP units, the rod bolts for an LS1 are the same (except you get too many, sell half of them). Those bolts will come with torque specs.
Check the oil pump while you're in there.. The SRT4 oil pump is notorious for shattering when you have too much detonation.. That'd cause a bearing to spin.
If the bearing actually SPUN, I'd bet some serious money you're not going to fix this by just swapping out the bearings.. An in-car bearing swap is really only good for tightening up tolerances and improving oil pressure on a high mileage motor.

[turbospirit]

Quote:

Originally Posted by windtech Hey there I'm new to the site..I have an 05 srt4 and have had it parked for months. Spun a bearing and stopped driving it straight away, I have new factory standard bearings and will replace them engine in. I have detailed proceedure notes minus the final tourqe specs/proceedure for bearing caps/rod bolts. Could anyone help out with this. Thanks!

Yep, right after you are done replacing the bearings, fill it up with half 20w50 and half lucas and drive it straight to a shop to be rebuilt.

[puppet]

^ If the shop is under 20 miles drive.

[UnaClocker]

Or sell it on Craigslist.. ;) hehe.. Call it a Stage 3 upgrade. (I kid, I kid..)

[windtech]

I have it apart and will replace the oil pump regardless..pulled all caps off and removed bearings..thorough inspection shows no scoring on journals and no bearings appear to have actually spun. #1 bearing does appear to be burnt however and before removing did have alot of slap side to side. I am going to continue as theres no turning back now..if it goes to crap then I'll consider a complete rebuild, but I need the car as a driver for now..Any positive advice to help make this a success would be appreciated..ie: does anyone know tourqe specs for the factory rod bolts?

[dynodon]

20 ft lbs + 1/4 turn

[jim34]

People arent trying to be a downer on you were just speaking from experience just putting bearings in WILL NOT WORK, you must have the rods and crank machined !

[turbospirit]

Quote:

Originally Posted by windtech Any positive advice to help make this a success would be appreciated

Grab like 4 cans of brake kleen and clean the ENTIRE bottom end as good as you can, take off the valvecover and clean the oil drain backs and valley as good as you can, take off oil filter and clean passages while oil pump is out, then take off oil feed lines and return and clean as good as you can. Polish the burnt journal with 1000 grit wet or higher, but only to remove high spots, you arent trying to remove material here. New bearings with plenty off lube AFTER making sure oil passages in crank are free and clean. Pack oil pump with Petroleum jelly. Fill with Walmart 20w50, Prime system untill you have good oil pressure, run for like 30 seconds. Drain. Fill with Walmart 20W50, run around block. Drain. If engine is still quiet at this point fill with 15W40 Rotella, cross your fingers, and start rebuilding a replacement engine.

[UnaClocker]

Some of that is good advice.. Skip the sandpaper on the crankshaft step.. The crank has oil passages in it. When you run that sandpaper over it, grit and debris will go up into the oil feed hole. You won't be able to get it back out, and it will come out when you fire the car back up, only, there'll be a fresh new bearing there to chew on it.. Skip the in-car polish. If your crank is damaged enough to actually need it, nothing you do will help.
I wouldn't run 20-50 in an engine spec'd for 5w-30.. I often ran 0w-20 in my 2.4L to keep the oil pressure down (it'd hit 120psi when cold at as little as 5grand with 5w-30). 10-40 at MOST.. But I'd start it up on what the engine is designed for, especially given that it's going on towards winter now. I do agree, start it, run up to temp, shut down, change oil AND filter immediately, again. Use cheap oil for the first start (poor man's engine flush), you can even use a crappy Fram filter for this.. If it's knocking when you fire it up on the crap oil/filter, don't bother going on, you failed. If it sounds ok, then you can proceed. Use GOOD oil, Mobil 1 or Royal Purple, and a GOOD filter, Wix, K&N, Mobil 1, etc.. Then cross your fingers and drive gentle.. ;) Good synthetic oil claims that it can polish your bearings.. (or is that those snake oil additives? either way) It'll either be fine until you can sell the car, or it'll start knocking again real soon. That engine's high performance days are definitely done.

[windtech]

thanks for all the advice..got it back together today and all is quiet!! Im sure that the performence days are over..however, it only needs to be good for the drive to local dealer for a trade in on a new challenger srt8. The same one that charged me twice to tell me they could NOT discover the source of an oil leak, wich I just realised was caused by the two missing oilpan bolts that were missing! hidden under that bracket at the transaxle side. Also the same dealer that sold me this stage III car with a drivetrain warranty that they will not honor because of the upgrades they claimed were factory. Anyways it runs and its knock free..partial success..thanks again!