Need some advice on holding power on stage 0

[lil4drturbo]

do u have a boost controller on it? cause mine does that all the time even if i have the boost under or around stock level, i think s2 will make that go away, and guess what!! i have a S2 ecu for sell, it is the one with toys....but it is just the ecu only. im thinking of going to S1 or just making ever bit of it custom.

[shay]

It would probably just be easier to go and get my own S2. That way I get the injectors and TIP & MAP sensor. Plus, I'd have to get the ECU re-flashed for my own vin. Just seems easier to spend the money.

[lil4drturbo]

i know!! but just trying to sell it, it only takes a week to have it reflashed, and from what i herd maybe wrong, but mopar is having a problem with the map and tip sensors

[shay]

Anyway, here are my graphs. You can see that my air/fuel went lean on the graph where the green line jumps up.

[shay]

The green line was my first pull, red second, and blue last. I'm guessing it says DYNORUN.003, .004, and .005 since I've been to Elite before when I was stock and that was when I did .001 and .002.

[lil4drturbo]

wow!! look at 3-4 rpms....fuel is at 0!! y is that for?

[contraption22]

The fuel numbers are on the right side of the graph. Between 3-4k rpms, it was so rich it was off the chart.

[lil4drturbo]

ohh ok....thanks!

[tat2punk]

get an AGP wastegate, return line and a clamp.

Wasgate, gives you total control over boost after you redo the vacuum lines to eliminate the selonoid between the wastegate and the turbo.

Return Line, gives you total control over your fuel.

Mapclamp, fool the computer so it can't see your boost and help adjust AFR.

Gotta run, will post more info if you want.

[shay]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tat2punk get an AGP wastegate, return line and a clamp. Wasgate, gives you total control over boost after you redo the vacuum lines to eliminate the selonoid between the wastegate and the turbo. Return Line, gives you total control over your fuel. Mapclamp, fool the computer so it can't see your boost and help adjust AFR. Gotta run, will post more info if you want.

First of all, I already have a wastegate. THAT is the problem. The WGA is allowing the car to boost higher but I'm not getting enough fuel. Second, the only way I would feel comfortable putting a map clamp on my car is if I had an AFPR or a boost controller so that I know FOR SURE that I'm not overboosting. My car is already throwing a code for overboost, I don't need any other variable in the mix. It just doesn't seem right to fool the computer when it's there to keep you in safe territory.

[lil4drturbo]

wow!! thats a way to start off....first of all....hey tat2punk, i would like to learn more.....ive been trying to figure how to make more power, and controll it when i want it. pm me man!

[TurboGLH]

Quote:

Originally Posted by shay First of all, I already have a wastegate. THAT is the problem. The WGA is allowing the car to boost higher but I'm not getting enough fuel. Second, the only way I would feel comfortable putting a map clamp on my car is if I had an AFPR or a boost controller so that I know FOR SURE that I'm not overboosting. My car is already throwing a code for overboost, I don't need any other variable in the mix. It just doesn't seem right to fool the computer when it's there to keep you in safe territory.

The only way to run more boost without tripping the overboost code is to disconnect the TIP sensor. A very popular mod on the srtforums, it's also one that I consider to be very stupid. It's there for a reason, and just because some guy in florida say's it's not a vital component doesn't make it so. So your left with getting stg 1 or up to solve your overboost code, the map clamp will help if you run into a overboost situation or you want to make sure you have lots of timing, with that comes the neccesity for more fuel hence the return system. Your most likely not going to be able to make the 260+ hp that you made on your first pull with a stock computer.

[Andre Parker]

If your getting code P1188, it's part throttle boost. That means that when your driving normal, your between 10 vac and 5 psi of boost. My friend Rusty's car's warranty is all most up so we have been "playing" with it. We had to clamp off the red line that goes to the air inlet on the air box by the drivers fender. I am positive that is causing your code to pop up. cycle your key on-off-on-off-on and you should get any codes or it will display done. I bet you get a P1188.

[TurboGLH]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andre' Parker If your getting code P1188, it's part throttle boost. That means that when your driving normal, your between 10 vac and 5 psi of boost. My friend Rusty's car's warranty is all most up so we have been "playing" with it. We had to clamp off the red line that goes to the air inlet on the air box by the drivers fender. I am positive that is causing your code to pop up. cycle your key on-off-on-off-on and you should get any codes or it will display done. I bet you get a P1188.

The red line goes to the TIP sensor, it provides the computer with a presure reading for the inlet tract. According to ethan from pvo it helps the computer calculate compressor speed and airflow, when you disconnect it the computer has to use just the map sensor.

[tat2punk]

If you have access to a dyno to tune or a wideband to get your AFR and boost set you will be safe running with the TIP delete and taking the selonoid between the turbo and the wastegate out of the loop.

Since you got the wastegate, take the green line that goes from the turbo to the selonoid then back to the wastgate off and run a vac line directly from the turbo to the wastgate. Then just hook the 2 left over lines together. By doing this your boost will drop alot, you just deleted the "PCM Boost controller". You will have to tighten your wastegate alot to get it back up to 16psi. you shouldn't get a spike anymore either. I would not go over 16 psi until you have a chance to check the afr, you will be safe upto 17psi before you throw a code or go lean. I also removed the red line that goes from the up pipe to the tip sensor and capped off the up pipe. We have done this on about 6 stage0 cars with no problems, each was checked with a wideband and the afr was always in the 11's. I would always check things out with a wideband when changing anything like this, its easy for me to say because we always have one handy.

Below are my current mods.
Psi-Fi FMIC
aaronneon return line kit
AGP WGA
Needswings 3" dump with an electric cutout
Dasmopar mapclamp
wolbro fuel pump

I have deleted the selonoid going from turbo to selonoid then back to wastegate and the TIP sensor. I am running 19psi safley at 11.1 AFR with boost dropping to 15-14 at redline. I get no spike at all this way and I get instant spool since I installed the new downpipe and FMIC. I have yet to throw a code since I installed everything. I plan on turning the boost up to about 21-20 and leaning it out to about 12.4 AFR. Once I have it tuned I will be going to the dyno to see what #'s its putting down, after that I am goign to install stage 1 to see if there is any difference in dyno #'s. I realy don't care about a dyno #'s myself, its about your ET at the track to me, but thats just me. I don't know if the stage1 will help with the dyno #'s but it will help a little at the track with WOT shifting. My et sucks right now because of a badly slipping clutch, but a new one is going in next weekend.

I don't know exactly what you are looking to do or your plans for the car in the future. Mine are to go big turbo, so I am going with all supporting mods for that. If you want something that is just plug and play, I would get stage 2. If you want total controll I would go with a setup like I went with, it all depends on what you are looking for. My way has lots of adjusting and playing with the wastegate, FPR and mapclamp, which can be tuned in a few hours.

I like srtforums, but you have to know who to believe. It does suck on there when you try and suggest something and someone jumps on you beacause they are know-it-alls, it kinda makes you not want to try and discuss things and help people(what the forums are actually meant for). Like I said before, going this route means you have to have a way of checking and monitoring your AFR until you get it adjusted completely.

As far as part throttle boost. You are gonna get that on any setup other than staying with stage0 and keeping all of the selonoids in the loop. Its hard to get used to at first but its not that bad when you get used to it.