Need some advice on holding power on stage 0

[RJ138]

We dynoed my girlfriends SRT this past weekend, and I was suprised with the results. Here is the thread that she posted about the runs and numbers (Shays dyno post )

The problem we had was the computer pulling back at the higher RPMs. The first run was great and nothing was pulled back. However the second run there was a large dip in the curve in the upper RPMs which brought us back down to near stock numbers. We then reset the ECU and the same results occured but we had a large torque number.

I am just wondering what others have done to get more consistant numbers? Would it be recomended to upgrade the ECU? I was reading on SRTforums that Stage one pulls more timing than stage zero but runs a lot richer. Or should we just go to stage 2, I don't want to have to spend money and not make noticable gains. I have read that Stage 2 runs extremly rich, and if we can get the ECU to not hold back the car already makes stage 2 power.

What are some options for us, I think a boost controller is a must so it can help keep the computer from trying to control the boost? I think Shannon said the first run was 15-16 psi and the second was around 14.

I am also curious to what everyone elses mods are, what are your results with these mods and what do you recommend.

All I installed on her car was a 3" electric cutout and a stage 2 wastegate.

Thanks,
Ryan Johnson

[shay]

What a nice boyfriend..

[contraption22]

Your only options are to go to Stage II, where the computer will be expecting the kind of boost you are making.

Or... going with a MAP clamp (zeiner diode) that will basically trick your computer into thinking you are making less boost than you actually are. The effects of this are two-fold. One, it will not retard timing at high boost, because it will never know you are making higher boost. Two, it will lean out the fuel mixture because, again, the computer will be fueling for a boost level lower than your actual boost.

[shay]

I worry about the map clamp and not having sufficient amounts of fuel. On SRTForums (always a fun experience...........................), they say that if you're going to have a map clamp, you should definitely get an AFPR. Then again, all those fools want to just crank their boost up to unsafe levels, and I suppose then, you would need more fuel.

I don't know. It's so hard to get any legitimate advice over there.

[contraption22]

Quote:

Originally Posted by shay I worry about the map clamp and not having sufficient amounts of fuel. On SRTForums (always a fun experience...........................), they say that if you're going to have a map clamp, you should definitely get an AFPR. Then again, all those fools want to just crank their boost up to unsafe levels, and I suppose then, you would need more fuel. I don't know. It's so hard to get any legitimate advice over there.

I don't have first hand experience with MAP clamps. However it seems that you should be able to safely hold 16-17psi with a properly tuned map clamp with out adding extra fuel. Adding S1 would even give you more room to play. However, once you are above 16-17psi, the turbo itself is really choking you.

[RJ138]

Maybe we should just get stage 2, for the extra fuel and safety factor. What boost setting does stage 2 without toys come set at? Is there a waiting list for stage 2 without toys?

But the map clamp and stage one might not be a bad idea either, as the system would not run extremly rich as stage 2 does. I bet we could make more power with this method and it would be cheaper but maybe a little less safe. If we got a boost controller and set it at 16 psi, a map clamp so the map sensor can't read past 14-15psi, and stage one I bet we could get around 270 HP 290 ftlbs torque consistantly.

I wish we had the dyno plots of our pulls, I bet it would help everyone visualize what is going on with the car.

Thanks,
Ryan

[Andre Parker]

One thing to remember with these cars on a dyno is this. If there is not a large fan to simulate airflow to the intercooler and fan, the motor will heat up and the car will lay less down at the wheels. My buddy Rusty had his on the dyno and the first time I think he lay'd down around 250hp at the wheels, he went back a month or two later and they didn't use the larger of the 2 fans they have there and he put 235 down. These cars seem to be very sensitive to heat soak and the computer will compensate for it. I think that's why alot of S2 owners were mad when they first started hitting the dyno. I personally think these cars will lay alot more power down on the road than a dyno because of air flow across the intercooler and the radiator.

[sy2206]

If they run that rich with the S2 setup, I'd be curiuos to see what would happen if you installed S2 but kept the stock injectors in it. Just a thought.

[DodgeZ]

I have an adjustable map clamp for sale.

[sy2206]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DodgeZ I have an adjustable map clamp for sale.

How much?

[DodgeZ]

Quote:

Originally Posted by sy2206 How much?

30 shipped, it's never been used.

[shay]

All I care about (well not all, but mostly) is making sure that my car is safe. Sure, I'd like to make more hp and torque but not if it's going to sacrifice a safely running engine.


Mark, some guy on SRTForums sells MAP clamps, also. Dasmopar or something.

[TurboGLH]

You can also make your own, http://www.fwdmopar.com/sites/dennis/howto.html, it's most likely the same design as the one the srtforums guy's use. I've made a few over the past few years and on the last one I made I had to use a different case as the one pictured is no longer stocked at radio shack, say a pic of the one that dasmopar sells and its the same radio shack 2xAA batt. case. Part's are only about $6 and it requires a small amount of soldering skill.

[DodgeZ]

Quote:

Originally Posted by shay All I care about (well not all, but mostly) is making sure that my car is safe. Sure, I'd like to make more hp and torque but not if it's going to sacrifice a safely running engine. Mark, some guy on SRTForums sells MAP clamps, also. Dasmopar or something.

Mine is from Dasmopar. You can be safe with a map clamp but you can't be a dumb a$$ about it. You should have a wideband on it an watch what it is doing. You can tune it up for the track and drop it back down for the street. What year is the car? 04?

[shay]

Well, I threw a code today on my way back from school.

P1188 TIP SENSOR PERFORMANCE

Hmmmm...That's an overboost code. The computer kicks it on when it senses 10psi in part throttle.

I guess S1 or S2 will make the code go away.