Best clutch with 300 horse?

[Pat]

Quote:

Originally Posted by darktone I have spare hardware such as clutch cable and adjuster mechanisims to bring with me so I am not too worried about that. The only thing that really concerns me is the extra pressure on the thrust bearing. I have talked to other that have used the DD pressure plate with good results but I have read threads from other that have broken clutch cables. I don't think I would want a pedal this stiff for a daily driver but some of the old trucks I used to drive were stiffer yet.

I've seen a two motors (friends cars) with thrust bearing issues, both of which ran heavier pressure plates but both owners always started the car with their foot on the clutch. That meant that for the crank time and the first second or so of run time, there was little to no oil feeding to the thrust bearing. No oil, with that heavy plate pushing against the thrust bearing led to a torn up thrust bearing, which destroyed the cranks in both motors.

My motor has had the 2200 lb plate bolted to it for the last 5k miles, I always start it in neutral without my foot on the clutch and I do not have any crank walk issues from thrust bearing wear or any bearing material in the oil, and I check often.

[EXTREME PSI]

what would be the best combo when future plans are for 450 plus hp
my clutch is starting to slip now and im somewere between 350-400 hp

[darktone]

[quote=EXTREME PSI]what would be the best combo when future plans are for 450 plus hp
my clutch is starting to slip now and im somewere between 350-400 hp [/QUOTE



I think the 4-puck with dual diaphram would work in that area of power- or at least I hope it does in my case . From what I understand the connecting rods are the weak link at 450HP.