Garage Storage Organization and Garage Cabinets

T3Boosted4 · **Best clutch with 300 horse?**

Just looking for a Street/Strip clutch that is recommended with 300 horse area.

89daytonaTII · 01-25-2006, 12:57 AM

Check out TU's site, they just came out with some new clutchs.

JayLo · 01-25-2006, 02:12 PM

The 4-puck ceramic disc unit FWDPerformance sells worked great for me with the stock pressure plate. It will hold at least 322whp no problem.

OptiCon · 03:04 PM

^ I am having problems with the same unit. And I'm only running 280 to the wheels on a GOOD day. It won't grab 2nd gear under boost for crap. I even had it slip engaging 3rd up a hill under boost.

THE PROBLEM WITH A HIGH TORQUE R/T (over 300 ftlbs) IS THE PRESSURE PLATE

There are plenty of discs that work fine, but they are designed to work with a stronger pressure plate. The Sachs pressure plate is weak and inconsistant. The RPS rework of the Sachs plate coupled with a 4 puck ceramic disc was decent (Example: Steve Menegon's heavy A568 lebaron launching hard with slicks... no slip), but they stopped making that pressure plate.

I'm talking to a Spec clutch rep right now. They have their own 2100 and 2800psi pressure plates and various styles of disc they claim fits the R/T A568.

I'm planning on purchasing a 2100psi plate and a disc to go into my R/T before I turn up the boost (It made 360whp on a stock clutch a few years ago - I'm shooting for 400whp this time). It may be a few weeks before I get the clutch, but I'll let you know how things turn out.

And I don't reccommend the McLeod disc. It's heavy, unforgiving, destructive on the flywheel, and useless if you don't have a pressure plate strong enough to clamp it down. And the only pressure plate our vendors sell strong enough to clamp it is a dual diaphram rework of the Sachs plate (I think Wallace uses this combo). But I wouldn't suggest that for anything but a dedicated drag car.

(The info I stated was compiled over 6 months of searching for products and talking to experianced and proven TD veterans.)

OptiCon · 01-25-2006, 09:53 PM

I was just PMed by a guy who is using the Spec clutch in his R/T. He said while the order process was a headache (Spec screwing up the product application) the clutch is working great.

Perhaps Cindy or Chris (or any other TD vendor) should take advantage of this opportunity. I, for one, would pay the extra dollar and buy the product from a TD vendor. The ease and reliability of their internet ordering is MUCH better than having to drill and second guess a Spec sales rep over the phone and email. Just my opinion.

**bansheenut420** · 01-25-2006, 11:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayLo

The 4-puck ceramic disc unit FWDPerformance sells worked great for me with the stock pressure plate. It will hold at least 322whp no problem.

I have one of the 4 pucks, and I love it. I am not making quite 300 ftlb yet, but I know FWD sells a better pressure plate that will work for the t-3. If I remember right Darktone (mike) is running a 4 puck with the upgraded PP. maybe ask him how its working for him.

darktone · 01-26-2006, 07:40 AM

Yes, I have the 4-puck and I just put in the dual diaphram PP but won't really be able to test it out until spring. If going by the increased pedal pressure I would say yes it's going to work just fine

. I had a little slippage in the lower gears with the single diaphram PP but in 4th it slipped pretty bad- unfortunately I have to be revved out in 3rd and shift to 4th to know if it's cured for sure but that's just too fast to go on the street to test. Mike

OptiCon · 01-26-2006, 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by darktone

If going by the increased pedal pressure I would say yes it's going to work just fine

.

Be careful of that. Your leg isn't the only thing being stressed by that plate. Remember that your clutch cable and the plastic assembly behind the pedal don't grow bigger muscles with time... they just break.

JayLo · 01-26-2006, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OptiCon

Be careful of that. Your leg isn't the only thing being stressed by that plate. Remember that your clutch cable and the plastic assembly behind the pedal don't grow bigger muscles with time... they just break.

I was wondering about that. Good point.

darktone · 01-26-2006, 08:22 PM

I have spare hardware such as clutch cable and adjuster mechanisims to bring with me so I am not too worried about that. The only thing that really concerns me is the extra pressure on the thrust bearing. I have talked to other that have used the DD pressure plate with good results but I have read threads from other that have broken clutch cables. I don't think I would want a pedal this stiff for a daily driver but some of the old trucks I used to drive were stiffer yet.

john1320 · 01-27-2006, 08:53 AM

Not to jack, but while we are on the 4 puck subject...
I have this also with a T-3 pressure plate, still on my shelf.
How does the disc behave in this combo?

Thanks

OptiCon · 01-27-2006, 09:16 AM

Personally, I don't think the Sachs (OEM) TIII plate has enough clamping force to properly squeeze the harder cermaic material of the RPS 4 puck. If you are staying under 350 ftlbs of torque, I would suggest using the stock TIII disc with the TIII pressure plate (Sachs).

The previous owner of my car went 140,000 miles (at least 70,000 of those were @ 350ftlbs) on a stock clutch with no trouble. I only pulled the clutch out because I was rebuilding the motor. I replaced the stock stuff with the combo that is sitting on your shelf. I'm only running 12psi at the moment where the original owner was running 17. I get clutch slippage. Go figure.

I've decided I am going to mate a Spec stage 3 Pressure plate ($220, Spec part number "SDC773") with my current ceramic 4 puck. Hopefully the Spec plate will have enough force to properly squeeze my current ceramic pucks (Spec representative claims 2800psi).

I would really like to purchase the Spec Stage 3 Plus clutch combo as it has a better disc, but the price is just a bit more than I want to spend on a clutch right now. ($379 for the ST3 and a whole $529 for the ST3+)

Between buying a $220 pressure plate or a $529 clutch kit, I'd rather save the extra $300 for suspension parts from Johnny.

john1320 · 01-27-2006, 11:04 AM

So I need to get a PP with more clamping force, right. That makes more sense
than using a mild T-3 plate.

I knew something was not quite right when I got the 4 puck disk. The price was too good to be true.

"Sure they'll work like a charm", they said.
You just saved me alot of headace.

OptiCon · 01-27-2006, 11:27 AM

Oh don't get me wrong. The RPS 4 puck disc is a fine product. It just didn't perform well when coupled with the OE pressure plate and put beside a modified TIII.

In my case: The stock T3 clutch combo is the best deal up to around 350 ft lbs. After that point, There is no cheap way out.

My suggestion to John1320... If you are planning on passing that 350ftlbs sell the fresh T3 plate to a guy who needs an upgrade for his TII car, then use that money toward a stronger pressure plate. If not, just buy a stock TIII disc and use that instead of the 4 puck.

Good Luck.

Pat · 01-27-2006, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OptiCon

Be careful of that. Your leg isn't the only thing being stressed by that plate. Remember that your clutch cable and the plastic assembly behind the pedal don't grow bigger muscles with time... they just break.

Unless of course, you increase the length of the lever disengaging the pressure plate, which decreases stress on the cable, the plastic self adjuster and the left leg...