Tips on TIII Head Welding

[2.216vturbo]

So I was just going to do a quick surface to prep for the Cometic and ADJ FWD cam gears, but I didn't make the deadline so I might as well go full boat on the head now. I want to have the casting plugs welded up but do they just fill the whole thing with weld or put Aluminum plugs in, then weld those in place? Also that little troublesome oil plug on the HG surface, should I have them both (or all three) welded shut? Last, what about the sacrificial anoding that is happening at the steam holes? THey are eroded right into the fire rings, what's the fix here?? Can you tell this is my first reworked TIII head ?

Alan

[mopar2ya]

We just fixed a head just like your describing. Install aluminum plugs, mill the plugs flush in head, weld around plugs, pressure test, weld the bottom of the head as its eroding and resurface.

[2.216vturbo]

Thanks Wallace, looks like it's going to take a little more time than the quick HG change I'd planned

Willing to give anything up on the porting? The intake manifold looks really good save for the smallish plenum and I'm not going that far on this motor. How sharp do you like to make the intake port dividers, thin them a little or knife edged? The exhaust ports look like they need the most help, width more important or roof? Both? IF these are all trade secrets, no worries, I'll just play in the bowls a bit and unshroud the valves

Alan

[mopar2ya]

I reduce the divider, but leave them rounded, air flows better over a rounded surface. You got it on the exhaust. Depending on the year of the head (90-91 are better), the short turns are thin on the intake.

[2.216vturbo]

Thanks Wallace, you may have bailed me out on that short side of the intakes I have a 91 head so I guess I lucked out there. Great advice, I appreciate you willing to share with the class on information that was obviously developed after doing many, many hours of port work.

Now, that exhaust manifold... Any idea of the balance in that thing? Is the 2-3 merge the biggest culprit? I'm sure the long #1 has no problem moving more air than the rest right? I think I'll spend most of the time on the underachievers if I can bring them up to par with the flow leader, I'll meet my goals. Swing valve assembly looks like it needs very little (compared to an 8V unit)short of chageing it emntirely, is it worth any labor?

BTW I have a set of FWD Perf ADJ gears, the little Allen heads catch the center just by a little on each side, should I be finding some hardened star washers or is it a non issue?

Again, thanks for your input

Alan

[mopar2ya]

If you bolt a ported manifold on a head and flow it with manifold and without, the cyls 3-4 will increase flow with the manifold on, cyls 1-2 will drop due to the extra turns. I would spend alot of time working the collector when you have 3 cyls trying to squeeze through. Just dont get to crazy as you still have to support a turbo and want to avoid cracking.

Ive never monkeyed with swing valves, so I cant give any first hand experience there, but IMO bigger is better there. Ive not had any trouble with the FWDP gears, but a washer wouldnt be a bad idea. I say do it, and put a little anti-seixe on the bolt threads. Good luck.

[2.216vturbo]

I'm on it, thanks. BTW are your custom TIII cams still 'break safe'?

Alan

[mopar2ya]

The S1 are definately non interferance. I know I chunked my first timing belt 2 weeks ago.

[stealthman]

This is probably a stupid question but can the head be welded on the car or does it have to be taken off and welded? My brother bought a 93 IROC (green) last summer which I flew to Racine Wisconsin and drove to Atlantic Canada. The car was a dream to drive half way across the country but about a month after I arrived home the dreaded head problem happened. The car started hitching and missing because of all the coolant laying in the spark plug valley and thats when I found it. This is the second head that was put on the car and the car only has 68000 miles on it. Any and All help is greatly appreciated. BTW ..this car is like new condition in and out and I would like to repair it the right way... you never know, they may be worth something someday. This is a great site I must say

[xtrempickup]

needs to come off the car im pretty sure, wouldnt you want them to pressure check it to make sure the welding fixed it?

[mopar2ya]

I agree, take it off. Its best to clean it and heat it a bit before welding.

[2.216vturbo]

If it was closer I'd come help, I'm taking mine off for the third freakin time That little oil galley plug was weeping every so slightly so I pulled it, resealled it with permatex 1a, and tightened it in a bit tighter. That bit tighter split the oil galley open. Oil is POURING out now


Alan

[Turbo224]

This probably doesn't help a whole lot, but here is the work Wallace's guy did on my head. Had the plugs welded in and crack fixed, and they tapped and threaded the hole on the head surface. Just need my S1's now and ill be set.

[bansheenut420]

Is that a stage one P/P on that head?
That thing is sexy!

[Turbo224]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bansheenut420 Is that a stage one P/P on that head? That thing is sexy!

No, I couldn't afford to port and polish it. They ended up doing a valve job, changing the exhaust valve guides, and changing the valve stem seals, and welding the plugs in. I was a bit shocked at the price of just that (nothing to do with LW) so its a good thing I didnt have them do it. I want to take my dremel and just do a VERY light smoothing of some of the casting flash. Also the openings of the two outside intake runners are not even close to being round. The casting is pretty bad. I thought about just porting it enough to make it smooth, but I am reluctant to do anything since I will probably just get metel shavings everywhere. Sorry to hi-jack.....