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03-29-2008, 02:16 PM
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#61
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Re: Fastest Iroc R/T
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
My Ride: '88 Shelby Z TII
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.284
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Interesting...I was under the impression that the Innovate would not be able to connect to a computer using a serial/USB adapter...I'll have to look in to this now!!
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03-30-2008, 02:59 AM
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#62
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Re: Fastest Iroc R/T
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.700
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i think he runs his off the coil. I take mine from the tach signal a at the cluster but its shaky so I have go guestimate rpm. Cory's is steady when its not doing the jumpy thing :P
I dont know how to get a good tach signal from our cars.
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03-30-2008, 03:51 AM
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#63
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Re: Fastest Iroc R/T
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
My Ride: '88 Shelby Z TII
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.284
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...negative lead on the coil...works for aftermarket tachs anyways...
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03-30-2008, 09:11 AM
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#64
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Re: Fastest Iroc R/T
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: sterling heights, MI
My Ride: 91 R/T-66 pontiac
Engine: T3 2.2/ 4bbl 389BB
Induct: Turbo + Nitrous
1/4: 13.940
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cindy sells that msd tach adapter since the r/ts are different, thats the right way to hook up a aftermarket tach.
tapping into the tach signal from the ecm is the steadiest and most accurate way to pick up the signal for data logging.
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03-30-2008, 01:41 PM
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#65
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Re: Fastest Iroc R/T
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Here...
My Ride: 92 White IROC RT
Engine: 2.2 L T-3
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I am running mine off the primary side of the coil. I do plan on getting one of cindys tach adapter becuase I am going to have to get a tach that goes to 8k.
__________________
Cory Hedin
I have a running T3 car! Woot! How did that happen!?
-92' White IROC RT PVP Pilot Car <---- page newly updated.
-87' Daytona Shelby Z W/ T tops <---- page under construction :D
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06-14-2008, 11:01 PM
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#66
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Re: Fastest Iroc R/T
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Quakertown, Pennsylvania
My Ride: 1991 Spirit R/T (x3)
Engine: 2.2 TIII
1/4: 14.810
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Been a while since I've been back to this board. Always something else to do. The story about the car is that I did take it to the track and it broke. Towed it home. Once apart, I found that one of the rods had the oiler hole welded in but not re-drilled and that scrapped one of the pistons and toasted the crank and rod...but only that one. The others still looked great! Long story short, we're back together, thanks to some of the good folks here on the list. Cost me a fresh uncut crank, new rod, piston and a set of bearings. I'm ready to play again.
The thing about the alcohol was my misunderstanding about the "high" vs. "lower" boost setting switch. I thought the alcohol didn't come in on the low setting, but found out after a few e-mails between us last year that it does, even on the lower boost settings.
Hey, Larry, I don't think your car has any more than about 300 miles on it since I've had it. Most of that was the drive to the track when it broke.
I'm glad to see you're still hanging out here....might you be considering getting your feet wet again?  Your daughter is almost 4 and might like to help dad with his "fast car". My kids both did at that age.
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06-14-2008, 11:38 PM
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#67
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Re: Fastest Iroc R/T
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Catasauqua,PA
My Ride: spirit r/t
Engine: 2.2l
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.804
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tom good to see you are still around. are you going to be able to go to carlisle in a few weeks? good to hear that the car is back together, now you just have to get it back to the track and try for the highest trap speed at least. you have the car to do it.
__________________
Rob Dolan
'92 Spirit R/T
'75 AMC Gremlin
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06-15-2008, 02:50 PM
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#68
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Re: Fastest Iroc R/T
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: sterling heights, MI
My Ride: 91 R/T-66 pontiac
Engine: T3 2.2/ 4bbl 389BB
Induct: Turbo + Nitrous
1/4: 13.940
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ditto, thats has always been my favorite r/t on the boards and videos, awesome dyno vid.
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06-16-2008, 05:04 AM
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#69
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Re: Fastest Iroc R/T
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Tampa Bay, FL USA
My Ride: 1991 Spirit R/T
Engine: 2.2L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by abarguy
Been a while since I've been back to this board. Always something else to do. The story about the car is that I did take it to the track and it broke. Towed it home. Once apart, I found that one of the rods had the oiler hole welded in but not re-drilled and that scrapped one of the pistons and toasted the crank and rod...but only that one. The others still looked great! Long story short, we're back together, thanks to some of the good folks here on the list. Cost me a fresh uncut crank, new rod, piston and a set of bearings. I'm ready to play again.
The thing about the alcohol was my misunderstanding about the "high" vs. "lower" boost setting switch. I thought the alcohol didn't come in on the low setting, but found out after a few e-mails between us last year that it does, even on the lower boost settings.
Hey, Larry, I don't think your car has any more than about 300 miles on it since I've had it. Most of that was the drive to the track when it broke.
I'm glad to see you're still hanging out here....might you be considering getting your feet wet again?  Your daughter is almost 4 and might like to help dad with his "fast car". My kids both did at that age.
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Tom!
Great to hear from you!
So, the car is all back and ready to rock!?!?!
I recall you mentioning something about the oiler holes, but that baffles me. I surely didnt modify the rod as such as I bought those rods from a vendor and just installed them. Perhaps someone was trying an experiment? I could perhaps see how the piston might have gotten damaged, but I wonder why the crank got roasted if that hole was welded shut? I would have thought that having that oil hole shut would have increased oil to the bearing rather than the opposite.
Well...who knows.......But, Im sorry you had that problem. I put that car through its paces so many times (in stouter form than I shipped the car to you boost-wise....  ) and this issue never reared its ugly head.
In any case....yes...you need to keep the alky on all the time. The controller will adjust the flow rate based on boost pressure. Have you changed the dials on the alky controller in the glovebox? If so, be careful before you turn up the boost. There really needs to be alot of alky flowing to support fueling needs of the SC61 turbo. I cant recall with 100% certainty where each of the dials was set, but if memory serves I believe the alky was set to kick on somewhere around 6-8 psi and with the pump set to ramp up as fast as possible with boost. You have to stay ahead of the boost with the alky as this turbo builds boost so fast once it reaches about 10 psi. If you can, take a pic of the dials on the alky controller and send to me and Ill see if they look about where I set them. I **think** the first dial was at around 11-12 oclock and the second dial was fully turned clockwise.
Also, the rising rate FPR will also add gasoline in conjunction with boost. If you want to run high boost, then youll need all the fuel that both systems offer. The gasoline fuel pressure under 30+ psi boost should be 110-120 psi if memory serves and the alky pressure at full boogie will be about 170 psi. But, I ran 35 psi on the street with things set the way they were and fueling was fine. To get 35 psi boost, youll need to swap out the wastegate can arm insert to the shorter one. If you recall amongst all the stuff I sent with the car were a few aluminum bushings of various lengths threaded on both ends. The shorter ones give more maximum boost.
As for my soon to be 4 year daughter and cars....shes all girl! Not sure if Ill mess with cars again soon or not.....Im tempted sometimes, but the time commitment is so much that it makes me shy away as I like to have lots of free time for doing other stuff, family, etc etc. Cars are so much fun to play with....but also so all consuming!
But, I will confess that more than once Ive thought back about selling you the R/T and thinking I should have kept it! But, I know its in the best of hands now. Heck...300 miles in over 3 years means the car has had a nice long vacation.....and should be well rested for some boost 
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06-16-2008, 05:17 AM
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#70
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Re: Fastest Iroc R/T
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Tampa Bay, FL USA
My Ride: 1991 Spirit R/T
Engine: 2.2L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Hey...you know what?
I think I have **one** lone Turbo Dodge part left in my garage, and its a forged crank! Im sure it needs to be cut before being used, but perhaps it could be a good backup for you down the road. If you like, Ill send it to you for free. Just shoot me your shipping address.
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06-19-2008, 07:59 PM
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#71
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Re: Fastest Iroc R/T
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Quakertown, Pennsylvania
My Ride: 1991 Spirit R/T (x3)
Engine: 2.2 TIII
1/4: 14.810
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Thanks for the kudos, Rob. I of course give Larry all the credit. And BTW, I still call it "larry's car".  That'll never change.
As for Carlisle, I don't even know when it is this year. I show up there about once every 5 years or so just to keep my hand in. That and look for yet another toy to pick up. As I hear it, the guy with the most toys wins!
I'll work on that trap speed soon, though. And maybe figure out how to launch the beast for some decent ET's.
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06-19-2008, 08:34 PM
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#72
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Re: Fastest Iroc R/T
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Quakertown, Pennsylvania
My Ride: 1991 Spirit R/T (x3)
Engine: 2.2 TIII
1/4: 14.810
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by 4sfed4
Tom!
Great to hear from you!
So, the car is all back and ready to rock!?!?!
I recall you mentioning something about the oiler holes, but that baffles me. I surely didnt modify the rod as such as I bought those rods from a vendor and just installed them. Perhaps someone was trying an experiment? I could perhaps see how the piston might have gotten damaged, but I wonder why the crank got roasted if that hole was welded shut? I would have thought that having that oil hole shut would have increased oil to the bearing rather than the opposite.
Well...who knows.......But, Im sorry you had that problem. I put that car through its paces so many times (in stouter form than I shipped the car to you boost-wise....  ) and this issue never reared its ugly head.
In any case....yes...you need to keep the alky on all the time. The controller will adjust the flow rate based on boost pressure. Have you changed the dials on the alky controller in the glovebox? If so, be careful before you turn up the boost. There really needs to be alot of alky flowing to support fueling needs of the SC61 turbo. I cant recall with 100% certainty where each of the dials was set, but if memory serves I believe the alky was set to kick on somewhere around 6-8 psi and with the pump set to ramp up as fast as possible with boost. You have to stay ahead of the boost with the alky as this turbo builds boost so fast once it reaches about 10 psi. If you can, take a pic of the dials on the alky controller and send to me and Ill see if they look about where I set them. I **think** the first dial was at around 11-12 oclock and the second dial was fully turned clockwise.
Also, the rising rate FPR will also add gasoline in conjunction with boost. If you want to run high boost, then youll need all the fuel that both systems offer. The gasoline fuel pressure under 30+ psi boost should be 110-120 psi if memory serves and the alky pressure at full boogie will be about 170 psi. But, I ran 35 psi on the street with things set the way they were and fueling was fine. To get 35 psi boost, youll need to swap out the wastegate can arm insert to the shorter one. If you recall amongst all the stuff I sent with the car were a few aluminum bushings of various lengths threaded on both ends. The shorter ones give more maximum boost.
As for my soon to be 4 year daughter and cars....shes all girl! Not sure if Ill mess with cars again soon or not.....Im tempted sometimes, but the time commitment is so much that it makes me shy away as I like to have lots of free time for doing other stuff, family, etc etc. Cars are so much fun to play with....but also so all consuming!
But, I will confess that more than once Ive thought back about selling you the R/T and thinking I should have kept it! But, I know its in the best of hands now. Heck...300 miles in over 3 years means the car has had a nice long vacation.....and should be well rested for some boost 
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Ya know it's funny but I was thinking experiment when I saw the hole welded in. Then I got thinking...it would help support the rod big end better. But I guess the expansion and extra friction on the skirts was too much. The rod caps were stamped with "H" except the one that burned up which was stamped with an "L". Not sure what that was for either. High and Low? Low what? 
I'm lucky enough to still have all the pics you sent me before shipping the car...and at least one has pics of all the knob positions in case they are accidentally altered and have to be returned to their right positions. And I can't see my trying to eek out any more ponies from the car, what it has already shakes my boots. I don't refer to it as the Beast for nothin'. 
My eldest daughter was 5 when she learned to gap plugs for the first time. She was my car buddy for lots of years. When she started dating, she used to diagnose her boyfriends car problems, then call me long distance to consult...OK, mostly to prove to her boyfriend that she was right and he was wrong....She married one of those guys eventually. What a world, eh?
Later!
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06-19-2008, 08:41 PM
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#73
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Re: Fastest Iroc R/T
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Quakertown, Pennsylvania
My Ride: 1991 Spirit R/T (x3)
Engine: 2.2 TIII
1/4: 14.810
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Thanks! That sounds great. I'll PM ya.
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