Dont feel the boost

[kriss440]

I changed the oil line that go to the turbo, (batterie was also unpluged for 2 days)

Now i dont feel any boost, the boost gage looks normal, the needle go up to 10psi , but the car isnt going any faster

So i guess if the gauge show boost, my turbo is ok, it must be a pressure or vaccum leak somewhere???

[kriss440]

So nobody have a clue about this ??

[rx2mazda]

Where is your boost gauge sourced from? If it's from the turbo and not the intake , then you could have a I/C hose off/leaking bad(turbo is boosting but not making it to the engine). Check all your connections from turbo to intake. If thats not it and boost is getting to the engine, you have a bigger/different problem. Check all vacuum lines(especially to Map). Check Compression. Let us know what you find!

[kriss440]

I dont know what is sending the signal to the stock boost gauge.

I cheked and all i can see seems to be ok.

May i tell you that i would never have expect that such a clean looking car could be such a curse.

One thing after the other, at least no real major issue yet.

I get code 21 two time in row now so i looked at the O2 sensor harness and its all butchered.

[mopar2ya]

How fast is the boost gauge reacting? Is it steady at 10 psi? Fix the O2 harness. They were origionally routed over the exhaust manifold at the base of the air cleaner and they often melted and shorted the signal. Fix that and see where things are.

Take one wire at a time and lengthen it about a foot and route it along the firewall at the top by the rubber seal.

[kriss440]

The gauge is going normal i think, but i never got a car like this before.
i get 10psi only on hard acceleration at about 5000rpm

I may have skiped a tooth on the timing belt ?

[mopar2ya]

Thats would certainly make the power feel slugish, I assume your BOV is ok?

[kriss440]

I dont know for the blow off valve, i dont hear it much.
I though these are usualy kind of quiet.

Just verified my cams with dial indicator and degree wheel.
Actual centerlines:
Exhaust: 99 deg
Intake: 142 deg ------- this is way off!!
I got it back 2 tooth to get 124 deg

Ill see tomorow how it go.
Also i will replace all vacuum line.

[mopar2ya]

Exhaust should be 104btdc and intake 121atdc.

[kriss440]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mopar2ya Exhaust should be 104btdc and intake 121atdc.

Yes, i know, but its just impossible, moving the sprocket 1 teeth = 9 deg
So 99 + 9 = 108 124-9=115

To get it correct i need adjustable cam sprocket. unless there is another trick??

[mopar2ya]

Belt tension will effect cams timing as well. Everytime you slack the belt it will change timing when you retension it. I fought that crap forever trying cam keys, I finally just used adj gears. 2-3 degrees per cam will drop 20+ h.p.

[kriss440]

Well, at least the car is now running like it was before, i can feel the turbo kick in again!

But 224HP... no-way!
My gf's Talon Tsi is much more powerfull then my R/T yet.
And the Talon is rated 210Hp 200 Lbs torque.

I tested the compression:

cyl 1 : 135 psi
cyl 2 : 110 psi
cyl 3 : 115 psi
cyl 4 : 140 psi

[mopar2ya]

Got a couple of weak cyls to boot. You can use some Engine restore to brin git up, it will work for a good while, but a rebuild is on order.

[bansheenut420]

Quote:

Originally Posted by kriss440 Well, at least the car is now running like it was before, i can feel the turbo kick in again! But 224HP... no-way! My gf's Talon Tsi is much more powerfull then my R/T yet. And the Talon is rated 210Hp 200 Lbs torque. I tested the compression: cyl 1 : 135 psi cyl 2 : 110 psi cyl 3 : 115 psi cyl 4 : 140 psi

You have an extreamly unhappy RT if your girlfriends TSI is beating your rt. My near stock shelby whoops near stock TSI's. Like Wallace said you have some unhappy comp numbers there.

[kriss440]

What the normal compression should look like?

Cylinder need over-boring ?
Valve seats and guide?