i may have found out why the pumps are failing.

[rx2mazda]

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLHNSLHT2 dry sump is for race cars? Uhh tell all the 911 owners that. Subie's and Vdubs have it too? My reasoning for wanting a dry sump is it is going on my "race" car.

911's are race cars. Regardless if they get raced or not, So are Vipers, etc. Which Subbies and Vdubs come factory with dry-sumps?

If you are putting this on a car that it will actually serve a good purpose on, thats fine. If you want to put it on a car just because it sounds cool to say or because you had a stock pump fail then thats fine too, stupid/wasteful IMHO...but fine. I love these cars/TIII's and I want to see them on the street. I just don't want to sit back and watch them get bashed because of some oil pump failures. Then some noob read these threads and think....I need to get a dry-sump oil system on my DD, screw that! $2000.00+?! Give me or Jackson some money and we will come out and help you get your car straight.

Quote:

Originally Posted by [X]treme R/T i do all my own fab work, my auto arc wire welder, miller arc welder, and thermodynamics plasma cutter make my day alot easier

Show off!

[GLHNSLHT2]

I wouldn't call any of those cars race cars. The 911's have dry sumps to be able to drop the engine as low as possible and because it's a H6. I'm guessing the Subie's and the Vdub bugs are the same? I don't know about them that's why there's a question mark. You can turn a 911 into a race car but it's a street car since 1964. When Porsche builds a race car you get things like a 917, 962 or GT1

[xtrempickup]

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLHNSLHT2 Xtremepickup, can you maybe go back and find out some more info? Part #'s, kit availability? His price? pics? How many stages? Be sweet to have a bolt on setup.

i guess if i get time i could swing past. the guy is pretty cool, he knew about the 16V TCs and what not when i bought the block in to get tanked and bored .020 for my TIII

[UnaClocker]

TIII owners complaining that a dry sump setup is too expensive.. And who says you have to do the full dry sump setup just to go with an electric oil pump. You could still have a pan and a wet sump, just get rid of the mechanically driven pump.

[xtrempickup]

getting rid of the pump ok, but what timing belt do you run now that you need a shorter one

[puppet]

You modify the I-shaft pulley to accept a Gilmore pulley and run an external wet sump system. Two or Three stage .. IDK ..$500? maybe ... used even less. and you can use one stage to vent the crankcase.

Somebody makes a set-up just for this ... begins with a "P" .. forget now.

It's a Peterson Wide-VAC. Around a "Grand" for the pump.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by xtrempickup getting rid of the pump ok, but what timing belt do you run now that you need a shorter one

Just let the shaft free spin.

[UnaClocker]

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLHNSLHT2 Just let the shaft free spin.

DING DING DING.. The shaft itself isn't the problem, it's the gears meshing.. If there's no meshing going on, it's just an idler pulley with a long shaft on it.. ;)

[Gumpus]

Quote:

Originally Posted by puppet You modify the I-shaft pulley to accept a Gilmore pulley and run an external wet sump system. Two or Three stage .. IDK ..$500? maybe ... used even less. and you can use one stage to vent the crankcase. Somebody makes a set-up just for this ... begins with a "P" .. forget now. It's a Peterson Wide-VAC. Around a "Grand" for the pump.

yeah I had already been looking at peterson pumps, and I was thinking that a good place to mount the pulley for the pump would be on top of the ishaft pulley. Kinda have to keep the original pulley in the same spot, so it would be going over the top of it. Think there will be room? I do not want to go look, but isnt there an accessory idler right on top of the ishaft pulley more or less? I am not sure there will be enough clearance to run another pulley on top of the ishaft pulley.

I have not been able to think of a less complicated way than to run the gilmore pulley off the crank. I think they even make special bolts to do it. Clearance is my worry, I have not measured anything yet. I am spending so much time fixing servers to pay off my rebuild that I have not been able to get back at it yet. Gonna be a bit. I am sure one of the others will finish before me.

[Gumpus]

Quote:

Originally Posted by UnaClocker TIII owners complaining that a dry sump setup is too expensive.. And who says you have to do the full dry sump setup just to go with an electric oil pump. You could still have a pan and a wet sump, just get rid of the mechanically driven pump.

LOL You will not hear me complain about how much something is for my car, just how little I got left!

I have not been able to find an electric one that will flow oil at anything near what the mechanical pumps do. They make turbo scavenge pumps that can deal with hot oil and are electric, found those from quite a few mfrs. In fact those are pretty much all I can find in the pumping hot oil department. An electric one that could flow at the rate we need would have a motor in it comparable to a starter. I do not know the exact oil flow numbers in our cars, but I do know they have to flow oil at a certain pressure and rate. The electric ones I have found are rather low in the pressure dept, I think we need 6bar or so, maybe 7. I know I mentioned earlier I thought we need 700gph and I was told that is an absurd number, but I have been looking around. It is not unheard of to have 25gpm pumps for a v8... that is 1500gph! I think my 750 estimate will turn out to be pretty close once someone figures out where to look up the numbers - but I still would not put money on it, I am not THAT confident about my estimates. I am going by what I was able to find out about similar size turbo engines since I am unable to find these numbers for 2.2s

This sounds like a job for....

NAJ!

[the.palmetto]

Quote:

Originally Posted by irocelectric93 Hey palmetto get yours running right and ill come look at it. Im just outside st. louis and id like to see it :)

It seems like the TD click in STL could turn into something pretty awesome if we all have running cars . I'd like to get us all together and hit up Hall street on a Sunday night. Now that would get some attention. I appreciate the gesture but there's not much to look at! My trim is faded, I've got some rust issues, and IMO the factory ninja wheels are hideous especially on this bright red car...I hope throwing down some good power will be good compensation. I really wish mine was clean looking. What's up with your R/T?

[[X]treme R/T]

with a spirited 45 minute talk with jackson on the phone going over some things and different variables in my issue, sometime this next week ill be taking my r/t down by him to have a looksy.

i start full time college on monday, 50 mile drive each way, 8 hours a day, so i wont have time to screw around on my car at all. he said if its just the pump and ishaft he can have it done in a day but i know he has other things to do and wut not so i told him a couple weeks would be fine. yeah the sooner the better cuz i can only borrow a car for so long for college but hes only one person and and he dont have 8 arms so lol

i guess jackson is gonna have the one of the first few miles on my car. o well, as long as it gets done lol.

there is exactly 50.7 miles on my new build. but yeah. if jackson installs it and it works fine with no issues than great, ill be more than pleased. if not, then we have a more serious issue on our hands and it will completely rule out user error install, belt tension ect ect

[xinnix]

Quote:

Originally Posted by [X]treme R/T with a spirited 45 minute talk with jackson on the phone going over some things and different variables

With your talk to Jackson did you guys determine if you did anything wrong?
Or does he have a different take on why your I-Shaft went?

[lotashelbys]

Quote:

Originally Posted by xinnix With your talk to Jackson did you guys determine if you did anything wrong? Or does he have a different take on why your I-Shaft went?

Maybe.....
When talking about the timing belt install he didnt have the rocker shafts loose and I told him how you can easily get the wrong tension by going it that way. I myself have more than I can count. So maybe he thought it was tight enough when really spring pressure made it look that way and if you were to roll the motor over like a 1/4 turn it would be down to like 50 lbs......

He also has stock retainers still in the car. So that is another thing we are gonna do is change them out. I wont run a TIII car without Tis of modifed stockers anymore so that will definately make things better for him.

Another thing we are gonna do is more the idler to the front. I have this on about 6 cars now and really think its the way to go.

If for some reason we still kill a pump/shaft I will bow down to something else being wrong with his particular motor. I am goona thoroughly inspect everything that could have gone wrong while its apart in case there is something out of the ordinary.

The car ran for many miles before this build so I know its capable of running for many more. A few more variables came into play after the rebuild that could of made it easier for belt tension to be the cause. A new pump and different I-shaft that really "havent became friends yet" so belt tension could have been more crutial with these different parts if that makes sense to anyone.

I just hope after I put it together exactly the way I do all mine it will be reliable enough to not have to open the hood till its time for an oil change......

[[X]treme R/T]

Quote:

I just hope after I put it together exactly the way I do all mine it will be reliable enough to not have to open the hood till its time for an oil change......

yeah,,, me to