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Turbo III Help with turbo III cars

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Old 11-23-2006, 09:45 PM   #31
 
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I discovered that my cam centerlines (stock sprockets) are 98' BTDC on the exhaust and 124' ATDC on the intake. Does this sound like they are way out?

The only prolem I ran into during the procdure was getting the tip of the dial indicator to sit on the rocker arm. I tried getting a reading from the valve spring retainer but you could see the lifters bleeding down on the gauge. If I placed the tip of the indicator next to the oil hole, the tip would slide back as the rocker pivoted down and would throw the readings way off. I ended up placing the tip on the flat area above the oil hole instead and the tip would still move around a little bit on the rocker arm surface. Couldn't really get it to stay put but I'm not sure if it even matters as far as accuracy anyway.

I thought I'd have it finished tonight, but swapping out the intake cam sprocket is turning out to be a huge headache. I had to remove the entire passenger side motor mount and bracket just to slide it off.
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Old 11-23-2006, 10:06 PM   #32
 
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After obtaining the above centerlines, I advanced the exhaust cam one tooth forward and rechecked the centerlines. This resulted in 114' BTDC on exhaust and 126' ATDC on the intake. So one cam tooth will throw the cam timing off 18' total in relation to the degree wheel.

On these FWDP adjustable cam sprockets, how many degree does each line on the adjustment gauge represent?
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Old 11-26-2006, 07:16 PM   #33
 
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like 8 degrees. Remember belt tension will mess with cam timing as well. 1 cam tooth is 9 degrees, If you count the total number of teeth I think its 40 devide into 350 thats the number of degrees per tooth, you moved them 2 teeth probably.
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Old 11-28-2006, 03:18 PM   #34
 
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Here are the centerlines I found on my car:

stock sprockets:
Exhaust: 98' BTDC
Intake: 124' ATDC

FWDP adjustable sprockets at '0'
Exhaust: 100' BTDC
Intake: 123' ATDC

I now have the sprockets adjusted to 104' BTDC on the exhaust and 121' ATDC on the intake which are the stock centerlines. I found that each mark on the adjustable sprockets would change the cam timing by four degrees on the degree wheel.

The car does seem more driveable and doesn't want to bog so bad when I take off from a stop. The intake vacuum didn't change at all; still about 10-12 in/hg at idle. The engine sounds a little 'meaner' when it's at WOT and I can actually feel the boost 'kick' now when it spools up. Car starts up very easily and idles a bit better too. I'm going to drive it like this for a few days and try the centerlines Wallace suggested for the stage I cams next week.
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Old 11-28-2006, 04:22 PM   #35
 
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I've been driving my car around (stock centerlines) checking this and that out with the OTC. It's really cold here today so the coolant temp only got up to about 160'F. The idle vacuum is now 12-13 in/hg and pulls about 18 in/hg on decel so that has improved a little; 1-2 in/hg from before when the cams were both retarded with the stock sprockets.

The biggest thing I'm noticing is the throttle response is much better. It's much easier to get the car moving, it revs more freely and idles/cruises smoother. When I floor it I can actually feel the turbo come on and feels pretty good for only 7 psi boost.
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Old 02-03-2007, 10:17 PM   #36
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Here are those TIII cam timing keys I made a while back that work alot better than drill bits any day of the week! I can make anyone a set for like 25 bucks shipped. Just shoot me a PM

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Old 02-04-2007, 09:13 AM   #37
 
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Very slick Jackson!
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Old 02-04-2007, 09:29 AM   #38
 
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Hey thanks Chris
After changing a belt once along-side the interstate in the dark 400 miles from home I thought there has to be an easier way to line the cams up.

Everyone that owns a TIII car should have a set of these in their glovebox right next to their spare timing belt
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91 Daytona Shelby(Soon to be TIII)
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Old 02-04-2007, 01:17 PM   #39
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lotashelbys
Hey thanks Chris
After changing a belt once along-side the interstate in the dark 400 miles from home I thought there has to be an easier way to line the cams up.

Everyone that owns a TIII car should have a set of these in their glovebox right next to their spare timing belt
If you gotta have this and a timing belt in your glove box then it's time for another CAR.

What's the size of the pin?
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Old 02-04-2007, 07:13 PM   #40
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Faulk
If you gotta have this and a timing belt in your glove box then it's time for another CAR. ?
Ha,I meant for some that dont have Ti retainers and a tension tool to check every once in a while

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Faulk
What's the size of the pin?
The size that goes into the cam gear and head is 3/16" and the handle part is 1/4" cold rolled steel.
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91 Daytona Shelby(Soon to be TIII)
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Old 02-04-2007, 07:27 PM   #41
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lotashelbys
Ha,I meant for some that dont have Ti retainers and a tension tool to check every once in a while


The size that goes into the cam gear and head is 3/16" and the handle part is 1/4" cold rolled steel.
Yeah...I should get a set of titanium retainers before they double in price again.
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Old 02-08-2007, 02:45 AM   #42
 
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what should stock timing be set at ???

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Old 02-08-2007, 02:49 AM   #43
 
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The computer sets the timing on the TIII, unless your refering to cam timing then its exhaust 104btdc and intake 121atdc.
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Old 02-08-2007, 01:43 PM   #44
 
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awesome thanks

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Old 02-28-2007, 02:42 AM   #45
 
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Im in the middle of retiming my R/T and im now at the point of adjusting the tension, and im unable to bring it to the right point, the reason being is because whenever i check the tension i get a different reading?! Also when turning the sprockets with the belt on i noticed that, the belt woudl get loose some times and at other times get tight?
am i doing something wrong?

ALSO i noticed, even though i pinned the cames in, i found that they could still move a little (1/2 a tooth front anb back) is this ok?
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