Quick Question

[HailingFromCork]

I recently bought an '89 CSX and it has been running alright. Here are my issues:

The idle is a bit high while I am rolling up to a stop with the clutch in. Around 1400-1800 or so. When I come to a stop it drops back down to about 1000. It is also only pulling about 14" of vaccum at idle (according to the guage, which is still the stock guage and is most definitely a little bit off so I don't have an exact number there.) The idle isn't the smoothest. I was thinking that this might have something to do with my speed/distance sensor?

Also the only other issue I can think of is an exhaust leak that I haven't gotten to just yet but that I was planning on taking care of this weekend. Could this be causing my idle issue as well?

Also right now it is showing a code 34, and a few weeks ago it was showing a 15, 22, and ...50 something... Not sure about that last one, but after reseting the codes theses all went away and the 34 showed up.

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

[tryingbe]

Check and do cam timing and ignition timing.

Engine Timing And Belt Replacement MiniMopar Resources

[HailingFromCork]

would that create the issue I'm having though? Because it comes back down to as soon as I come to a stop...

[NAJ]

Your idle situation does not sound like it is too far off normal, there are still a few things you can check to be sure.
Code 34 is "Speed Control Servo Solenoids". Was the cruise disconnected? If so be sure the vacuum lines are plugged. A central vacuum leak will cause a high idle situation.
You may also have a sticking/binding AIS pintle. See the "Sticky" Help with Poor Idle" in the "Help" section for the procedure to clean the TB/AIS, set base idle and reset AIS.
An exhaust leak before the O2 sensor will create driveability problems, if you have a rough idle start by checking all basics, Ignition, Injectors(Dirty), Vacuum and Engine Sealing, Cam/Ignition Timing.

[Cornflakes_GLHT]

ok this might sound really dumb, but my daytona does that, but only when my heater setting is to defrost (far right) and the fan is on. it does that because of the AC. if I turn off the fan and move it to vents, it stops doing it.

[HailingFromCork]

there never was nor is there now or will there ever be cruise control on the csx-vnt. The only code that is showing is the 34 and now the drivability has gooten MUCH worse.

When I accelerate the car shutters left to right (sometimes worse than others. Much worse. For short periods sometimes not at all (seemingly when the car has just been started up). To me it feels like something might be loose such as he tranny. Times when it seems to be worse are after going up hills, etc. and things that put excessive stress on the car.

Just now on my home it started to sound like I was bouncing a medium sized boulder under the car, near the front. It has also been leaking oil a bit. Any further suggestions? it has gotten much worse as I said. much much worse

[NAJ]

If I understand correctly a high idle as originally posted is not your driveability concern right now, you now have a vibration/shudder felt thru the entire vehicle especially under load.
The first question would be is it from the engine, misfire etc?
If not check the obvious first, engine mounts, drive axles etc.
Are there any noises associated with the shudder?

[HailingFromCork]

There wasn't any noise (aside from the obvious noises that coincide with a car shaking) until last night. Now when it shutters it feels like something very heavy is bouncing against something else that is also quite heavy. If there were rocks in the car it would sound like a medium boulder hiting a metal rod or perhaps another rock. Not a settling noise by any means.

I had thought to check the transmission mounts but as I can't get under the car in any way for a few days I haven't yet checked them.

For now I am not driving the car as I am afraid something terrible will ensue if I do.

suggestions?

[NAJ]

You may be able to power brake the engine to check for excessive engine movement, pay close attention and visually inspect the R/S mount for bracket damage and the front mount for bracket damage or bolts that may have come loose.
When I was racing my car the R/S mount bent and the engine dropped down and back and the drive axle was hitting.
While the car is on the ground try to determine where the noise is coming from, engine, trans, or something hitting underneath.After that you may have to put the car in the air and do a visual inspection.
Does the noise only occur while the vehicle is moving?
If you feel it is a safety issue you are doing the right thing by not driving it.

[HailingFromCork]

Yes the noise only ocurs when I'm moving. I also tried rolling down my street in neutral with the car off and it still made the same noise. It seems to stop when I am braking to come to a stop (not really so much if I just tap the break) and seems to not occur (at very least, nearly as much) when I accelerate. So it seems to only make the noise when I'm coasting.

The car will rock pretty hard when I shift a lot of times. Particulaly on hill. Also on hills it doesn't seem to want to go into second and I really really have to make sure it is nice and snug in there before I release the clutch or it will grind. (it also does the same on flats under heavy acceleration, but as of late I haven't been doing any of that.)

I'm pretty possitive these two behaviors are related, as the latter started shortly before the former.

[NAJ]

You are going to have to do a physical inspection to see what you can find, it sure sounds like a mount but be sure you check everything closely, when you get the car in the air it may be something very obvious.
Keep us posted.

[HailingFromCork]

I will likely be under the car in the next day or two.

Thanks for all the help so far NAJ