code 34,vnt solenoids

[90DodgeVNT]

Is the VNT in the FSM's for '89? I have the 90' FSM and the VNT stuff is all in their. The shelby supplement for the CSX VNT is ok...not a heck of alot of useful info in there that is not covered in the FSM or in the PDP.

If you want scans of something in particular, lemme know.






**Just checking with everyone else also.I was thinking of getting a set of FSM`s for the csx. Should I order a set for 1990 since dodge didn`t make vnt`s in 89? I`ve also heard of the shelby supplement. Would this be all I need since I have the 89 fsm`s already. Travis

[GLHSHELBY]

I drove the car some today and it`s not cutting out totally like before.The boost gauge will keep going up to 10-11 lbs then cut out some now.The only thing is it doesn`t feel like the turbo`s working after 3-4 lbs. Maybe the soleoids just need to be driven.Is it possible for them to stick?I bought a complete replacement set from scottie and they don`t work at all. I`m not saying he sold me bad ones because maybe something else ain`t right when I change them out.His car was running,that`s what confuses me.

[Daytona90Shelby]

It is possible for a solenoid to stick. See here for more info: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/solenoids.html

[Shelby VNT]

I would suggest you double check the vacuum lines and make sure that they are correct, even if you think you got it right the first time. The VNT has a lot of vacuum lines and is not as forgiving if they aren't hooked up correctly.

I'm also curious to know what kind of vacuum you are pulling at idle. That might give us a better idea if you have a leak somewhere.

[sdac_guy]

Something I am not following here ...

What led you to start messing with the solenoids that control engine functions?

The code 34 is ONLY about the speed control unit and the solenoids listed in the fault description are located within the unit itself (under the battery). The code 34 will NOT affect engine operation or driveability in any way (other than the cruise control not working).

If you have a boost control problem regarding your VNT, it is unrelated to the code 34. It may be solenoid related, but as stated previously, the VNT's are extremely sensitive to the vacuum lines being connected correctly and free from leaks.

My Daytona VNT had severe boost control problems (too much boost), and the turbo had a bad oil seal. I had a couple cracked vacuum lines that I didn't find until I removed the head to replace the turbo. Lines that 'looked' good fell apart in my hand when trying to remove them.

One that fell apart was the main rubber hose coming off the intake to the 4 way splitter. It was hard and cracked, and when I removed it from the intake it broke into pieces, but it 'looked' good prior to that. It was in such bad shape, it could not be reused.

Also be aware that depending on where you are in the country (cold weather?) that the VNT may be easier to get into an 'overboost' condition. The overboost shutdown is sort of a stuttering caused by the injectors being shut off intermittently till the boost returns to normal. When I changed my exhaust to a 2.5" cat back system, overboost became a problem (even at 'lower' boost levels) especially during cooler or cold weather.

Barry

[Daytona90Shelby]

This is my interpretation of the vacumn diagram for the VNT's.

Standing in front of the car looking at the engine the 1st solenoid in the group of 3 solenoids mounted to the passenger inner fender is the purge solenoid. The lower nipple is capped, the middle nipple goes to the port on the vapor canister and the top nipple goes to the vacuum connector.

The 2nd solenoid is VNT#3. The bottom nipple is capped, the middle nipple of the solenoid goes to the top nipple on the turbo actuator. The top nipple of the solenoid goes to the top port on the side of the turbo compressor housing.

The 3rd solenoid is VNT#2. The bottom nipple goes to the front nipple of the solenoid that is mounted on the shock tower which is VNT solenoid #1 (I'm calling the front nipple the one that is facing the engine). This line also has a tee with a line going to the bottom port on the turbo actuator. The middle nipple is capped. The top nipple goes to a line that is tee'd, with 1 line going from the tee to the rear of the solenoid mounted to the shock tower (rear nipple would be the one facing the fender) and the other line from the tee going to the vacuum connector.

The baro solenoid that is on the bracket with the map sensor has the bottom nipple capped, and the middle nipple going to the map sensor. The top nipple goes to a tee, with 1 line going from the tee to the fuel pressure regulator and the other line going from the tee to the vacuum source.

The lower port on the side of the turbo housing goes to a tee. 1 of the lines from the tee goes to the air cleaner and the other line goes through a check valve which then goes to a tee. 1 line from the tee goes to the speed control servo and the other line from the tee goes to a check valve and continues on to the port on the brake booster.

I would suggest you print out the vacuum diagram to follow along.
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo/turbo90vnt.jpg

If anyone has a simplification or correction on this please post it. Thanks Mike

[sdac_guy]

I think what you've described is pretty much correct. I think the ports that are plugged have vented caps though as Chrysler previously used a porous foam cap. For example, the baro read solenoid needs to be able to read atmospheric pressure on one port, so that port cannot be capped solidly. The other solenoids that appear capped also should have a 'vent' port to relieve vacuum or pressure as needed.

On the vacuum diagram, there is an exception to note however. Try to find all 3 VNT solenoids on the vacuum diagram. Only two of them are on there.

When I changed the turbo & head on my Daytona, I got confused as to where some of the lines had been. I looked at the diagram under the hood and that is when I discovered it is not correct. It is mostly correct, but not entirely representative of how the vacuum lines really connect to the turbo & solenoids.

Barry

[Daytona90Shelby]

Quote:

Originally Posted by sdac_guy I think what you've described is pretty much correct. I think the ports that are plugged have vented caps though as Chrysler previously used a porous foam cap. For example, the baro read solenoid needs to be able to read atmospheric pressure on one port, so that port cannot be capped solidly. The other solenoids that appear capped also should have a 'vent' port to relieve vacuum or pressure as needed. On the vacuum diagram, there is an exception to note however. Try to find all 3 VNT solenoids on the vacuum diagram. Only two of them are on there. When I changed the turbo & head on my Daytona, I got confused as to where some of the lines had been. I looked at the diagram under the hood and that is when I discovered it is not correct. It is mostly correct, but not entirely representative of how the vacuum lines really connect to the turbo & solenoids. Barry

You are correct about the vented caps. I looked at mine and they are vented. Capping off those ports would make for a very badly running motor.

As far as the mystery solenoid I believe it is shown on the diagram but is just not identified. Look to the right of the VNT solenoid that is below the Baro solenoid in the diagram. I think the little "rectangular box" that has the lines coming out of each end is the VNT #1 solenoid. At least I recall that being the way my lines were hooked up before I took apart my car. Maybe?

[GLHSHELBY]

I appreciate everyones help on this.I`ve been real busy with work this week and it being so cold I haven`t had time to mess with it. I thought 34 was the vnt solenoids ,which is why I messed with in the first place.Plus I had a spare set,but when I put them on it got worse so I changed them back.As I was doing this I found a line going from vnt sol. #2 to the #1[on shock tower,had a few cracks in it]. I was hoping this was the problem but it wasn`t.One thing though when messing with the csx is buy a couple extra jacks,jack stands,and ramps. These things are low.Putting one on ramps is almost impossible.You have to jack it up,then slide the ramps under it. I`ve printed out what you said Mike. I`m gonna pull it in my moms garage again and spend some time on it tomorrow[if my wife don`t go shopping again]. Travis

[Mikestr]

Be carefull with the vent caps. They can get pushed too far on and it blocks the port. Mine did it on the baro and I kept getting a code. Pulled it off a little and it works fine.

Mike
'90 Shadow ES VNT T28
'02 Stratus Sedan R/T
'04 Hemi Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4x4

[Daytona90Shelby]

Any luck with getting the car running right?

[GLHSHELBY]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daytona90Shelby Any luck with getting the car running right?

not yet. I still can`t find anything under the battery.

[GLHSHELBY]

I still haven`t found a problem. I haven`t had a lot of time lately to work on it. Along with this problem and my blinkers not wanting to work right I just haven`t been in a hurry to turn it into a daily driver just yet.