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02-02-2005, 12:07 PM
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#2
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Surrey, B.C.
My Ride: '92 IROC R/T
Engine: 2.2 135ci TIII 16v
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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The needle moves like this all the time? Have you recently changed your fluid? If so, maybe you need to 'burp' the pipes, or drill the thremostat. How hot depends on different factors, like your coolant to water ratio, weather, etc. My VNT GLH runs at about 1/4 at normal engine temp.
__________________
'01 Maxima SE
'92 Chrylser Daytona IROC R/T-t3/t4 ceramic dbb stg III turbo, adj. Konis w/ Eibachs, dyno 217hp @ 11psi at the wheels w/ stock parts.
'84 TIII Rampage-LWP Stage II port with LWP Stage I cams, port matched manifolds (work in progress).
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02-02-2005, 01:34 PM
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#4
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Surrey, B.C.
My Ride: '92 IROC R/T
Engine: 2.2 135ci TIII 16v
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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When was the last time you changed your coolant?
__________________
'01 Maxima SE
'92 Chrylser Daytona IROC R/T-t3/t4 ceramic dbb stg III turbo, adj. Konis w/ Eibachs, dyno 217hp @ 11psi at the wheels w/ stock parts.
'84 TIII Rampage-LWP Stage II port with LWP Stage I cams, port matched manifolds (work in progress).
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02-02-2005, 04:34 PM
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#6
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Surrey, B.C.
My Ride: '92 IROC R/T
Engine: 2.2 135ci TIII 16v
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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So if the shop found this, then was it recored? Or was it flushed? And if silicone got in there (a substancial amount) then that could be what's causing the guage to act up. Usually when it does that, there's something flowing over the thermostat, like an air bubble, sludge (coolant build up).
__________________
'01 Maxima SE
'92 Chrylser Daytona IROC R/T-t3/t4 ceramic dbb stg III turbo, adj. Konis w/ Eibachs, dyno 217hp @ 11psi at the wheels w/ stock parts.
'84 TIII Rampage-LWP Stage II port with LWP Stage I cams, port matched manifolds (work in progress).
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03-11-2005, 11:56 AM
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#11
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: In old Europa
My Ride: 89TII Shelby Daytona
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I think the 90 Model Radiators are WAY too thin for these cars, Daytonas as well. Why they changed it is anybodys guess, as the 89 Rad/IC set up is the sturdiest and most practical I have ever seen for a 4cyl Turbo car. Mine BARELY reaches the just under midway mark, and thats at over 140mph (indicated)MPH...could be cause its a tad cooler here in Germany than back home in Atlanta though...
If I were you, and believe me, I have lived in the South all my life aside from living here, find a 89 Radiator, flush it, test it, slap it in. Your engine will love you for it. Few things worse than overheating problems...
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03-11-2005, 07:48 PM
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#12
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Mine is 89
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2004
1/4: 0.000
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my car is an 89 CSX and I think it's the original radiator - everything else on it is. The shop that re-cored it said a guy with a similar once had them build a custom radiator with larger tanks for him, so maybe even the 89's aren't always good enough.
Jim
89 CSX #390
85 Dodge 600 SE t-1
www.pnw-sdac.com
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03-12-2005, 03:05 AM
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#13
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: In old Europa
My Ride: 89TII Shelby Daytona
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Hi...I was referring to mainly Daytona radiators, I am unsure what your car has on it. I have 2 Shelby Daytonas over here, and when they are parked side-to-side, and you look at the raditors, 89(thicker/better/sturdier), the 90 model looks weak and thin. Guess all the R&D that went into putting a revamped interior in the Daytona, was siphoned out of the "lets make the engine compartment sturdier looking" department. 90 models and up look like they came out of a Toyota or something...just thin and flimsy. Who knows. If I were you, and you are living in warm climate, and are having cooling issues, I would get RIGHT on that, and consider a fatter radiator, a better thermometer, and even an oil cooler...these engines are not reknowned for their durability when proper Maintenance hasn't been done on them. Radiators are WAY cheaper than heads...
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