'90 VNT Daytona questions

[feigned]

I have a lot of questions. Don't be afraid to give me a nice long schpiel covering everything you can think of, I'm ready for it.

Blue '90 VNT Daytona with ~180k miles, a568 (of course), sunroof, no wrecks - body is straight as an arrow

The head is off (with a black plastic bag covering the block), nuked turbo (more than likely), pistons looked a little "funny" (I'll get to that), cosmetic issues with paint and window seals, et cetera you know the drill.

Bad news: It's been sitting for about two years and hasn't moved.

Block looked to have a bit of surface rust on top and in the cylinders from what I remember. Pistons looked like the valves had dropped (how?) and left some beautiful indentations that were a bit random. Owner says he was losing oil out of the turbo and after getting it to the house and pulling the head to fix everything up decided to let it sit. Would I be better off replacing the internals but keeping the block? Providing that rods and crank are fine. T4 pistons are the same as T2 pistons?

I've read a few threads that say I could more or less swap a T2 turbo along with the exhaust manifold and rig up a manual boost controller. Would I have to swap out the fuel rail for a T2 unit as well, and the computer to make everything hunky-dory if I did swap out the VNT? Remember that the VNT is (probably) shot, so I'll be replacing that piece either way. Would I be better off to go ahead and go with a T2?

I'll probably end up grabbing the car so that I can at least think about doing it up right, but I'd like to know my options. I'll also kick myself if I don't, so there we are.

If there's any knowledge that you would like to impart to me, I'll gladly receive it. Thank you for your time.

[asless]

If the head is off the hard part is done. If the shortblock assembly is fine, just swap on a T2 - type turbo and exhaust manifold (and oil and coolant lines), manual boost control and go. All else is fine. That is what I did, does not spool as fast as the vnt, but much easier to play with.

[Subliminal]

Man...I picked up a car that the head was off for just a few months and the engine was shot. Honing the cylinders took a long time to get the surface rust ground off the bores.

That being said, the engine in there is a nice engine. It's a 2.2 common block with balance shafts. I had a 90 vnt lebaron (basically same car) that ran as smooth as butter, and was nice and fast too!

If the engine is apart, i'm assuming you can get the car for a pretty fair deal? With these cars, if the body is in good shape, they're probably worth it. The engines seem to be a dime a dozen these days, as they outlast the cars, and are pretty easy to work on.

To replace the turbo is no problem. All you need is a new turbo, and the new lines. You can probably find a decent shape t2 turbo on here in the swap meet section, then contact cindy @ fwdperformance or chris @ turbos unleashed and get yourself a nice set of $110 braided hoses for it. The manifold is different only in that it has a higher nickle (i believe) content to deal with the higher heat of the vnt. The vnt manifold will work just fine.

As to the boost controller, that's easy too. Just run a line off the vacuum system to a boost controller (grainger valve from one of the above dealers for $25 will work fine) and to the nipple on the wastegate canister. You're already intercooler, and the air plumbing in the car should hook right up to that turbo.

And yes, pistons are pretty cheap, and not that hard to replace. My advice though, if you haven't done it before, is to use a lot of assembly lube. I did my first piston swap earlier this year. I forgot to pre oil the rod bearings and they spun almost immediately. Doh!

Anyway, the rod pins will need to be pressed in or out of the new pistons. You could go with used pistons from Cindy for $15 a piece, or buy a new set for like $50 or $60. Or you could go crazy and get some forged ones, although unless you're running mega boost, that's probably not all that necessary...but fun!

If I were to do the project you're looking at, I'd probably order from Cindy. (www.fwdperformance.com). She's treated me right in the past on many occasions.

I'd order the following, for starters:

Mopar Performance Head gasket
Mopar head bolts
Grainger valve
Pistons (I'd probably go with federal mogul myself...as they seem to be as good as any)
Rings


and then turbo if necessary...thats up to you!

hope that helps

d

[feigned]

Quote:

Originally Posted by asless If the head is off the hard part is done. If the shortblock assembly is fine, just swap on a T2 - type turbo and exhaust manifold (and oil and coolant lines), manual boost control and go. All else is fine. That is what I did, does not spool as fast as the vnt, but much easier to play with.

That's the thing, I dont' think it's fine. The pistons looked like someone had taken an icepick and tapped the tops of them for a while.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Subliminal Man...I picked up a car that the head was off for just a few months and the engine was shot. Honing the cylinders took a long time to get the surface rust ground off the bores. That being said, the engine in there is a nice engine. It's a 2.2 common block with balance shafts. I had a 90 vnt lebaron (basically same car) that ran as smooth as butter, and was nice and fast too! If the engine is apart, i'm assuming you can get the car for a pretty fair deal? With these cars, if the body is in good shape, they're probably worth it. The engines seem to be a dime a dozen these days, as they outlast the cars, and are pretty easy to work on. To replace the turbo is no problem. All you need is a new turbo, and the new lines. You can probably find a decent shape t2 turbo on here in the swap meet section, then contact cindy @ fwdperformance or chris @ turbos unleashed and get yourself a nice set of $110 braided hoses for it. The manifold is different only in that it has a higher nickle (i believe) content to deal with the higher heat of the vnt. The vnt manifold will work just fine. As to the boost controller, that's easy too. Just run a line off the vacuum system to a boost controller (grainger valve from one of the above dealers for $25 will work fine) and to the nipple on the wastegate canister. You're already intercooler, and the air plumbing in the car should hook right up to that turbo. And yes, pistons are pretty cheap, and not that hard to replace. My advice though, if you haven't done it before, is to use a lot of assembly lube. I did my first piston swap earlier this year. I forgot to pre oil the rod bearings and they spun almost immediately. Doh! Anyway, the rod pins will need to be pressed in or out of the new pistons. You could go with used pistons from Cindy for $15 a piece, or buy a new set for like $50 or $60. Or you could go crazy and get some forged ones, although unless you're running mega boost, that's probably not all that necessary...but fun! If I were to do the project you're looking at, I'd probably order from Cindy. (www.fwdperformance.com). She's treated me right in the past on many occasions. I'd order the following, for starters: Mopar Performance Head gasket Mopar head bolts Grainger valve Pistons (I'd probably go with federal mogul myself...as they seem to be as good as any) Rings and then turbo if necessary...thats up to you! hope that helps d

Wow! This is exactly what I was looking for! Hey you want to take a trip to Indiana to do this crap for me? What I'm worried about is if I do get the car, everything else that I will end up having to replace will surely make my bank account approach red for a while. That said, I'm calling about it later today to find out how much the owner will take for it. If I do happen to get it I'll be sure to post pictures of the carnage.

On to the other matters...

I don't really want to end up re-doing the entire shortblock. Decisions decisions decisions.

[Subliminal]

Well, see what you can get it for. I definitely wouldn't give more than a grand for it. Popping in new slugs and honing a little bit isn't too bad. I think the machine shop charged me like $30 to press in the pins on the new pistons. To get them in and out is pretty easy. Simply take off the pan, undo the two bolts and tap them out the top. Install is opposite of removal..grin.

d

[MeanStreets]

I have got a rebuilt 90 2.2L turbo engine with a like new turbo head plus all of the engine parts have been powder coated. The bottom end of the short block has been balanced and blue printed and the bearing are 20 over as wel as the pistons (Vinolia) 20 over. It is just sitting in my garage (in Phoenix, AZ) waiting for a home.

[feigned]

Quote:

Originally Posted by MeanStreets I have got a rebuilt 90 2.2L turbo engine with a like new turbo head plus all of the engine parts have been powder coated. The bottom end of the short block has been balanced and blue printed and the bearing are 20 over as wel as the pistons (Vinolia) 20 over. It is just sitting in my garage (in Phoenix, AZ) waiting for a home.

I don't even want to know what that would cost me, let alone shipping. Shoot me price via a Private Message so I can read and cry over it.

I haven't called about the car just yet. I ran the numbers after my girlfriend got a newer vehicle two weeks ago so I got the bug again (if she has, I have to have too, you know?) and found out exactly how much I can save per month, and it's not a pretty site. More overtime for this boy, I guess.