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16v Conversion Converting to 16V status

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Old 01-10-2007, 03:47 PM   #1
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I have my common block and a 2.0 head gasket, so I'm ready to commit the block to the conversion. I've seen a couple competing options on the block modifications:

1) Drill a hole to match the existing equalization hole in the head vs. modify the head and block to run an external equalization line. Does anyone have a reason to favor one over the other?

2) I plan to modify the head to take coolant at the driver's side to avoid belt conflicts on the passenger side. The head gasket has restrictions placed with the assumption that the coolant enters at the passenger side. Some suggest flipping the gasket to place the greatest restriction closest to the coolant entry. Others say this is not important. Is there reason not to? (Other than a previous choice to use the head's existing equalization hole.)

3) The block is cross-drilled between the cylinders. These holes do not align with any coolant passage in the head. Some have plugged the cross-drilled holes, others have not. Does leaving them unplugged increase the potential for a coolant leak?

4) At its most restrictive end, the head gasket completely blocks one coolant path and on another path provides a small hole that does not align with any coolant path in the block. I think I've seen one case where the builder drilled the block to provide a coolant path aligning with this hole. Most often I don't see this mentioned, at least not explicitly. Is it important?

David
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Old 01-10-2007, 05:08 PM   #2
 
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1) I liked the running an external vent (5/8") simply because there
is no chance to restrict the oil your truing to drain (yet another vent
in that plumbing) from the head to the pan, want it out right away.
Drilling another vent is pretty small and easily filled with oil...I think?

2) I know exactly what your saying, asked myself a few times with no
replies. I ran the gaskets as the would normaly sit, moved t-stat to
the drivers side (frost plug area) and with a LOT of HARD miles in mid
summer heat my four (4) EGT gauges at each port never showed any
varience from one cylinder to another.

3) I never messed with them, the 16v head would apear to move enough
air and have a high enough VE cooling has no been an issue.

4) dont think it is important but I thought I did drill that one, I will have
to search the old messages to be sure....gotta go let the dog out but
will check back later....
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Old 01-15-2007, 08:09 AM   #3
 
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2) here is one way to look at this. on the 2.0/2.4 the water pump and t-stat are both on the same side (p-side) so the head gasket was made so that the water would flow through the entire block/head and not just circulate in the smallest circle. so therefor (just like electricity) water will take teh easiest route for it to follow. and that would mean if i could draw a pic for you, then it would flow from teh pump to the driverside, then back through the head to teh t-stat. an cool everything evenly.
now to if you run the t-stat housing on the d-side. the small holes in the gasket on teh p-side will allow a small amount of water but is much cooler b/c it just came from teh radiator. now what flows through the block will still go up to the head and not allow anything to over heat. and all should cool evenly.
3) i didnt plug mine. and have no issues
4) and i drilled that one. its only a 1/4" hole so not a lot is going to flow through it. its a judgement call on you. i did it just b/c the turbo sets back there and i thought it would be nice to allow that water to move and just just cook from the external heat + the internal cyc. heat.

-James
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Old 01-15-2007, 06:48 PM   #4
 
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1 ) I drilled the hole up front .no external tube.

2 ) I looked at the gasket and saw that the steam holes got larger as they got closer to the D/s of the block, I put it on the normal way anyway.

3 ) I didn't have this problem, and have no idea what would happen, my guess is that the gasket would seal this since its crossdrilled in the center of the block anyways

4) I drilled the hole and clearanced the rest , my guess is you could have a bubble there that never get out of the system ?
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Old 01-16-2007, 08:53 PM   #5
 
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one thing that i have found on my hybird is the plugs that i put in the rear of the head that were the old oil drain backs leak just a tad bit. i used frost plugs, and actually doubled theim up. but im just gona take off the valve cover and clean out the oil, then pull out the top plug and fill it w/ jb weld then replug the top (just in case). that should stop it.
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Old 01-17-2007, 01:16 AM   #6
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodge89shelby
one thing that i have found on my hybird is the plugs that i put in the rear of the head that were the old oil drain backs leak just a tad bit. i used frost plugs, and actually doubled theim up. but im just gona take off the valve cover and clean out the oil, then pull out the top plug and fill it w/ jb weld then replug the top (just in case). that should stop it.
It's good stuff that JB weld,my conversion is covered in it lol!
I have had no leaks from anywhere that i've used it,and it's done plenty of work over the year now that it's been running.
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