2.0/2.4 vs hybrid project

[Hemi417]

I've been debating on doing a hybrid set up for my lebaron I have a 2.0 with a 5speed ,and a 2.5 with tii rods and a common block I was going to take the 2.0 head and put it on too the 2.5 but now I've heard that it really is more expesive to do the hybrid I want to go auto tran I have too auto,s off the 2.2/2.5 but I don't have an auto off the 2.0 I can get a auto easy enough for the 2.0 but I didn't know what had to be done to run an auto on the 2.0/2.4 block are the bolt patterns the same as the 2.5 trannies what can I do as far as putting the newer motor into the car and setting up a tranny for it it is going to be an everyday driver and race in stop light to stop light stuff and scca event's parking lot races normally! and how hard is it too get them to run on the old electronics (89) what horsepw (guesstamint) I have a t3 garret to put on what ever I build !so what can I do, can I run the factory 2.0 tranny and be alright I've heard about putting the tii rods in the 2.4 motors to beef them up can I bore the 2.0 out too run the factory tii pistons and rods and just balance it , and the ultimate question is it worth it am I going to see a major increase in horse pw and effiecy, mpg compared to porting a swirl head I'm not trying to get every last hosrepw out of this car Just to get me into the low13,12 and get fairly good gas milgae out of it when I'm not in boost I know it's a lot of questins but any help would be greatly apprec.

[crazymadbastard]

From my reading "experience", it is going to be more cost effective rebuild the 2.5. The biggest thing would be the electronics, which you can run a distributor on the 2.5 in the stock location, just gotta use the right intake for clearance along with the other mods in the stickies ^ . There are mods available to make 2.5's the auto stout as well.

[capev86]

yeah, the 2.2/2.5 block will bolt up into your older chassis better than the 2.0/2.4. easier to swap the head and rig up a harness and stuff. also, the 2.0 has no bottom end performance which isn't very good in a heavy car...better to go 2.4 or 2.5!

[DaytonaTurbo87]

yeah only nice thing about using a 2.5 is you can keep the distributor in the stock place, but then you have to run a custom or aftermarket intake $$$, I didn't think any of the 16v stockers will clear the distributor. Some people are getting around this by hanging the distributor off the end of the head. The 2.2/2.5 transmissions will bold up to the 2.4, except for one of the bolt holes on the bellhousing you'll need to fab up an L bracket. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. Personally, if I was going 16v, I'd build a 2.4 and run it with megasquirt, cause either way you're going to have to do the tuning yourself. Myself, I think I'd sooner buy an engine out of a wrecked srt-4 and work with that. All depends on what you want.

[crazymadbastard]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaytonaTurbo87 Personally, if I was going 16v, I'd build a 2.4 and run it with megasquirt, cause either way you're going to have to do the tuning yourself. Myself, I think I'd sooner buy an engine out of a wrecked srt-4 and work with that. All depends on what you want.

That would be my preference too, but the reality of ease and budget suggests keeping the 2.5 and using stock electronics and distributor. There is a stock 2.4 manifold that will clear the dizzi. minivan maybe? I forgot.
Either way you go its time, money and mad fab skillz...

[speeduphoria]

I think you have to move the thermostat to the driver side to use those intake setups because of the timing belt

[whywoody]

A stratus intake clears the timing belt and the dizzy with a little grinding to the flange for clearance.The head has to be ground here too,so no problem really.To run it completely stock length you will have to use a remote oil filter kit as the plenum sits right were the filter mounts stock.
This is what I use on my van,but I have alot more room up front than cars.
In my experience,a stock t3 turbo wll be way to small making boost control a nightmare,I now use a holset hy35.As far as gas mileage and performance goes,it's alot better for both.At 18 psi boost the van is animal compared to the stock cleaned up head and turbo at the same,and economy is great as the engine is alot stronger off boost than before.
Mine was built very cheaply,and it was worth every penny.

[Hemi417]

The 2.0 I have is a sohc not a dohc I forgot to say something about that! is there any big reason to go through the headace of using the 2.4 block instead of the 2.5 I would have to find a 2.4 first and as far as finding a recked srt4 probably not going to happen around here I think theres 3 of them maybe 4-5 if I don't know about the other two !LOL small town . you said the t3 would be hard to controle boost on is it creep or spike can I open up the waste gate hole and be alright heard of it done ? I also have a t4 but I wasn't going to use it because of lag but maybe a hybrid ? I don't think I would have any problems building a custom intake I have a tig,mig,ark,torche at my disposal . does anybody have numbers as far as hp gains and gas milage gains to compare to! the dohc cams flow pretty colse to the sohc16 as far as I've heard stock for stock. my leabron is a two door gtc I didn't think it was that heavy about the same as a shadow ?

[whywoody]

With the little T3 I used,I would get BAD boost creep,stock .48 turbine housing though.I tried running it with the wastegate arm off and the flapper wide open,and it was lazy down low of course,but above 3500rpm with anything more than 1/2 throttle or so it would take off out of control.I don't think modifying the wastegate would help enough,as I also had to do this on my holset,as it had some creep too.
Economy incresed by about 100 klms more per tank,so the big turbo is slowly paying it's self off lol! Also,the van is now alot easier to drive in the snow and ice we have here,just better all around I guess.
There is posts elsewhere here regarding flow #'s for various heads and cams,I use 2.4 cams,but have 2.0 to try,just haven't got there yet as I'm happy with the way it pulls now.

[Garret]

From my experince, it all depends on what you wanna do, as lots of people have talked about doing the swap but only a few have delivered. For someone with Little to no fabrication skills it would be simpler to just swap the whole dohc motor. If you don't know how to make simple parts avoid the 16v conversion and just swap the motor. If I had to do the swap again in a FWD vehicle I'd use the 2.4 motor because they are cheap and plentiful and even stock will hold a decent amount of power. HOWEVER if you're like me and actually working out a RWD setup for a turbododge the 16v hybrid is the only way to go

[Hemi417]

I can fabricate what ever I need but I want the most cost/time effective hp I have a sohc 16v head to go on it the flow numbers are pretty close to the dohc with a little porting or close enough that I'm not going to worry about it because of the low avilibilty of the dohc around here I just want something to get me into the 13 /12 s without being to costly and I would like a little gas milage , I was hoping to use the t3 but it looks like that not exactly a good option ,what about the t4

[whywoody]

I think that if you have the head,have access to tooling,have good patience and fabrication skills,then build the 2.5/hybrid.There isn't as much info on the sohc timing belt area of the conversion,but everything else should be the same as the dohc as far as mods needed to fit the head.
You could build a manifold that would allow you to try the t3 turbo,and then if you aren't happy with it,bolt up the t4.I built a manifold to allow me to swap the t3 for a holset,best thing I did lol!

[Hemi417]

Hey thanks that's probably what i'll do, hey Garret what tranny are you going to use on your all wheel drive set up

[Garret]

I'm just doing RWD and I'm planning on using the 5spd Supra tranny

[Hemi417]

Quote:

Originally Posted by capev86 yeah, the 2.2/2.5 block will bolt up into your older chassis better than the 2.0/2.4. easier to swap the head and rig up a harness and stuff. also, the 2.0 has no bottom end performance which isn't very good in a heavy car...better to go 2.4 or 2.5!

Is this true am I going to have lower end power problems like bigger than normal like 2.2 stuff my car isn't that heavy if I decide to do a motor swap instead , also I'll be runny stock electronics how much power increase should I expect