Electronic Distributor Adapter

[rfb6435]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 90TurboVan Maybe this will explain. If you were to put a scope on the two distributor sensors and the coil negative wire, you would get this: The spikes on the coil negative graph are where the actual spark happens. Obviously, you can determine TDC for all cylinders with just one of the sensors, but it could take a maximum of 4 revolutions of the crank to find #1. By using both, you have a max of 2 revolutions before everything is synchronized, and it makes it much easier to detect #2 and #3 TDC. The advantages of DIS over coil/cap/rotor are less maintenance, more efficient spark, and the possibility of twice the max RPM because the ignition needs are shared between two coils. As for the project, the Daytona started and ran on the Neon coilpack and my adapter today.

Nice explanation.

The TBI cars only have one of the connectors so I imagine that they do take 4 revolutions to get everything working.

I always thought the second sensor was more for spark advance control. Is that true?

I am pretty sure there is a NGC (2nd gen 2.4) electronics spark decode diagram on the SRT forums somewhere. I will have to compare them to enhance my understanding.

Thanks,

Rich

[90TurboVan]

The TBI ones just do four square pulses, imagine the above without the dips in some of the pulses and with only one stream of them. They don't need to know what cylinder is on TDC becuase they only have one injector, not two banks.

[Wizard]

Oooh!

That would be the ticket! Care to detail what you have done to pull this off?

If that is the case, I'd be thrilled as I have SMEC computer from turbo van 1989 complete with harness.

Cheers, Wizard

[90TurboVan]

Was having some EMI problems that caused the adapter to reset continuously and not work right. I seem to have it straightened out now, it sparks happily for long periods of time with no resets on the bench. I'll hook it up to the Daytona tomorrow and if all goes well, I'll put up schematics and code.

[gkcooper]

I am extremely interested in this. Please keep us informed. I have really held back on going MS and I want to do a hybrid common-block buildup in my Dakota.

[90TurboVan]

Daytona started first try, idles and runs up to 7000rpm (stock tach, so who really knows). Scope tells me that timing is preserved through the adapter and the coilpacks seem to like the same dwell as the stock coil. I can't put up any files until my ftp comes back up, but I do have a final schematic and code.

I must warn that this is not for the faint of heart. All of the parts are easily obtainable from Digi-Key Corporation - USA Home Page for under $10, but you will either need to make a circuit board or do point-to-point wiring on pre-drilled RadioShack board. You will also need to program the microcontroller, which isn't that bad as long as you have access to a Windows 98/2000 computer with a parallel port, and can handle putting together a programmer.

I will post all the information needed to assemble and program an adapter as soon as my ftp is back up. If enough people don't want to take the time to build one or don't feel they're up to it, I would consider putting them together in exchange for some cash to cover parts and my time. I regularaly etch my own circuit boards and obviously I'm set up to program these chips.

[turbo.shaft]

Do you have a picture of this setup? How does the stock distributor fit into this equation? Is the sensor in the cap still used and can that signal be transferred onto a cam or crank instead?

[90TurboVan]

No pics yet, it hasn't stopped raining for the past two days and I only had the prototyped circuit up until tonight. The stock distributor is used, with the HEP only. Take the cap and rotor off, put some screws in to hold the HEP in place and that's it. The signal could be transfered to a cam, not a crank. Technically, you could make up your own sensor with hall/optical pickups on it as long as it would produce the same output as the stock HEP.

What your distributor would look like:


And finally, here it is:
http://moyerautomotive.com/Documents/DIS_Adaptor.zip

All the info should be there, README.txt should be the first thing you open.

And a description of wiring modifications required:

Remove stock coil, cap, plug wires, and rotor
Wire coil + wire to center pin of Neon coilpack and noise suppressor
Wire coil - wire to coil input on adapter
Wire outer two pins of Neon coilpack to adapter
Wire adapter - to a good engine or body ground
Wire adapter + to a switched ignition run/crank source (not to coil +)
Splice into tan wires on Gray and Black HEP connectors and connect to adapter

The noise suppressor I speak of is that little black thing that bolts to the back of the driver's side of the head on the 2.0/2.4's.

I am investigating the possibility of an adapter to run the stock electronics off the crank/cam sensors for you 2.4/SRT swap people.

If you have any questions feel free to PM me or post here.

[rfb6435]

Any chance of reposting the timing diagrams that just disapeared?

Thanks,

Rich

[Wizard]

What do you did this just realize this is what you have exactly recreated
what ford did with EDIS but in useful way with this method on this electronic
distributor adapter so we can have DIS and NOT dump the stock electronics. Very USEFUL indeed! THANK YOU.

Cheers, Wizard

[jrbexhaust]

"What do you did this just realize this is what you"

Is this English?

[crazymadbastard]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrbexhaust "What do you did this just realize this is what you" Is this English?

Just very excited!

[turbo.shaft]

The zip file is corrupted/ won't open

[rfb6435]

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbo.shaft The zip file is corrupted/ won't open

I had that problem with winzip but I downloaded 7-zip (freeware) and was able to open it with that.

Do a save-as on the link and then open it with 7-zip.

-Rich

[jrbexhaust]

I'm just giving you a hard time Crazymadbastard. It made me smile when I tried to read it.