Electronic Distributor Adapter

[turbo.shaft]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 90TurboVan No pics yet, it hasn't stopped raining for the past two days and I only had the prototyped circuit up until tonight. The stock distributor is used, with the HEP only. Take the cap and rotor off, put some screws in to hold the HEP in place and that's it. The signal could be transfered to a cam, not a crank. Technically, you could make up your own sensor with hall/optical pickups on it as long as it would produce the same output as the stock HEP. What your distributor would look like: And finally, here it is: http://moyerautomotive.com/Documents/DIS_Adaptor.zip All the info should be there, README.txt should be the first thing you open. And a description of wiring modifications required: Remove stock coil, cap, plug wires, and rotor Wire coil + wire to center pin of Neon coilpack and noise suppressor Wire coil - wire to coil input on adapter Wire outer two pins of Neon coilpack to adapter Wire adapter - to a good engine or body ground Wire adapter + to a switched ignition run/crank source (not to coil +) Splice into tan wires on Gray and Black HEP connectors and connect to adapter The noise suppressor I speak of is that little black thing that bolts to the back of the driver's side of the head on the 2.0/2.4's. I am investigating the possibility of an adapter to run the stock electronics off the crank/cam sensors for you 2.4/SRT swap people. If you have any questions feel free to PM me or post here.

How much would you charge for one that is PLUG AND PLAY

Especially interested in the 2.4 non-dizzy version setup.

[jrbexhaust]

"I am investigating the possibility of an adapter to run the stock electronics off the crank/cam sensors for you 2.4/SRT swap people."

This would be ideal. Keep us informed!

[rfb6435]

Here are some diagrams for NGC electronics:





The signal is inverted from the diagram...

I imagine that we don't even need the cam sensor if we can decode the crank...

One question though, How would we set the base timing without a distributor plate to rotate??

Would we just add 10-12 degress to the calibration base timing and do it that way or is it already set by the sensor and trigger wheel by default?

-Rich

[90TurboVan]

After some more experimentation today, I deemed it nessecary to add a short circuit protection. If the Ignition line is held to ground for more than ~8 milliseconds, the adapter goes into an infinite loop with the outputs off. Power cycling will restore normal operation. If you downloaded the zip before the time of this post, get the new code. I also changed my reccomendation for the FET's. I don't think the old ones had a high enough voltage rating, but can't really prove it.

We wouldn't need a cam sensor, because to the stock computer, 1+4 are the same and 2+3 are the same. Since we'd have to generate the timing pulses with an mcu, we could put a potentiometer on the board for base timing? Have the mcu read a voltage from the pot and convert it into an offset in time. Although, you'd have to change the cal for a 2.4 anyway, so why not just add the offset in then?

Still need a timing diagram for non-NGC 2.0/2.4.

Define Plug and Play - would you want a completely enclosed module with a connector on it and a pigtail for wiring into the stock harness? Or just an assembled board with lengths of wire for mounting however you desire?

[rfb6435]

I guess it would be interesting to see but since the crank wheel is static (unlike a distributor) it will probably come out to a perfect 10-12 degrees with no adjustment...

-Rich

[turbo.shaft]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 90TurboVan Define Plug and Play - would you want a completely enclosed module with a connector on it and a pigtail for wiring into the stock harness? Or just an assembled board with lengths of wire for mounting however you desire?

Either: Anything that just requires no more than simple wiring splices at the max. I am trying to avoid any wiring that creates flashbacks to my microprocessing classes.

[Wizard]

I also have same problem with this zip file. Intially downloads then spurts to the end. Tried to open file and zip extractor says this one is corrupt.

Cheers, Wizard

[turbo.shaft]

Quote:

Originally Posted by rfb6435 I had that problem with winzip but I downloaded 7-zip (freeware) and was able to open it with that. Do a save-as on the link and then open it with 7-zip. -Rich

This allowed me to open the files

[90TurboVan]

Changed the short circuit timeout to one second; apparently cranking dwell is more than twice normal running dwell. Zip file changed once again, and I used real winzip this time so it should work for everyone.

Rich, I think that the NGC crank trigger is for TDC, not any degrees before TDC like the non-NGC stuff, so you would need some type of offset. Unless I'm not understanding you properly?

[rfb6435]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 90TurboVan Changed the short circuit timeout to one second; apparently cranking dwell is more than twice normal running dwell. Zip file changed once again, and I used real winzip this time so it should work for everyone. Rich, I think that the NGC crank trigger is for TDC, not any degrees before TDC like the non-NGC stuff, so you would need some type of offset. Unless I'm not understanding you properly?

That is what I meant (sorry if I was unclear). If that is correct the NGC probably sets the full advance rather than an offset from 12 degrees like the TD LM/SMEC/SBEC that makes more sense anyway with DIS... From what I remember I think fixing that in the code should be easy. If we use a TD tranny we can even check it easily with a timing light (something the SRT guys with Megasquirt can't do without making the marks themselves).


-Rich

[Wizard]

Um, the zip file is now not download-able. Got 1K byte.

Cheers, Wizard

[rfb6435]

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbo.shaft Either: Anything that just requires no more than simple wiring splices at the max. I am trying to avoid any wiring that creates flashbacks to my microprocessing classes.

I would think a box that sits next to the SMEC/LM would be best since it is out of the way. That way we can just connect the converter directly into the stock computer connector without having to splice it into the HEP connector. (the terminals are easier to deal with that way)

Then we would only need to run wires from the crank sender and back to the coilpack.

For people that want to try and blow things up it could be inside of the car with a dial on it that controls spark advance... (ok that is probably a bad idea)

-Rich

[90TurboVan]

For some reason I used a different spelling of adaptor (adapter) on the zip last time I uploaded it. Link works for me now.

I was planning on a DIP switch on the board: four bits binary 0-15 degrees base advance. Or maybe for 5-20 degrees base advance. Is 15 max enough? Could always use more bits...

[jrbexhaust]

"Define Plug and Play - would you want a completely enclosed module with a connector on it and a pigtail for wiring into the stock harness?"

This is what I would want. I think others would too.

All your talk about this stuff is way over my head. I kinda get it, but can't figure it out myself.

[rfb6435]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 90TurboVan For some reason I used a different spelling of adaptor (adapter) on the zip last time I uploaded it. Link works for me now. I was planning on a DIP switch on the board: four bits binary 0-15 degrees base advance. Or maybe for 5-20 degrees base advance. Is 15 max enough? Could always use more bits...

Actually since one clock is 10degrees it is probably best to just offset by a clock and call it good. Advancing base timing isn't really the best way to do things anyway. 5-20 is probably better than 0-15 since I would expect the car to run better at 5 degrees than at zero degrees.

Lots of people have more experience here than I do though.

-Rich