It lives again with pics

[shadetreeshop]

I'm impressed ! . Plain and simple .

+1 for the spartan interior , I like em' stripped !

[R/Tony]

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadetreeshop I'm impressed ! . Plain and simple . +1 for the spartan interior , I like em' stripped !

SPARTAN INTERIOR !! hahahaha .... sure it is !!

Great sick car David !!! I mean it !

[t3rse]

I love my SDS, and my interior looks a lot like yours. I sliced my dash in half and welded a piece of conduit across to keep it from falling apart and it makes getting to all the wiring cake.

I don't see what you don't like about the 2.4? you can make 500 hp on the 2.4 out of the box with a good turbo and good tune. I have a 2.4 going in but I also have a seriously built 2.2 and a spare 16v head. I'm going to use an hy35 but also have a nice hybrid on the 8v.

Looks nice. Very nice.

What is the volume on your intake plenum?
Why aren't you using an external gate?

[Shadow]

42psi, need to get me some'o that!

[BIG PSI]

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Rose Now for round 2 finaly got the GLHT running again.New eagle H beam rods and new T3 pistons as well as head welded at #4 cylinder.Going to try to keep the boost below 42psi this time.Going to try to get to the track next weekend dependig on how busy i am.Need to get a handle on the SDS tuning

DAVID,

I would like to see your OMNI in person some day. I live in NE Ohio.
Let me know if you are any where close and I would like to see it go down the 1/4 mile.

Very NICE WORK !!!!!!!

Regards
Chuck

[David Rose]

I didnt say that i dont like the 2.4 but i had 4 2.2 blocks to chose from so i used what i had.
42 psi was because of wastegate not opening i think around 30 max is what i will be pushing for
T3RSE do you have any fuel maps you could share to aid in my tune of this mil
Internal wastegate is 35mm so no need for external at this time.Dont knw intake volume but i am using a 70mm throttle body
Spartan interior if i could have removed more and still look ok i would have.Goal weight i was trying to get was around 1600lbs.So everything has gone to lighten up this car.Still have to get it weighed

[t3rse]

I can give you my maps but I am using standard +40s so if you will probably have to scale it, and I can't guarantee the tune, but I run a shit ton of timing and have never melted a motor, with 12.2 afr below 15# and 11.7 above. I would really like to go a little leaner down low for spool but I have problems blowing the slicks away in 1 through 4 as is...

tuning the SDS is pretty easy though:
First, take the WG can off and let the flapper float. Set the total timing to 35* and start the boost retard at 6# and pull 1 degree until you hit 35. Set the rpm air/fuels without boost and get them around 13.0, which is about optimal for an equivalent N/A motor. Then hook it back up, and set really conservative boot fuel maps, i.e. super rich. Pull fuel out in the bottom end and watch thing. Once you have two points of reference you have the slope and the rest is cake. Do not use max boost cut becuase it pulls fuel instead of spark and it will blow head gaskets, I have had this happen MANY times. The knock sensing is also shit. You have to stay on top of things. Use some sort of external knock detection and remove boost retard (add timing back) until you get a reading. This is the most timing and boost you can run for a given gas/boost. I have it pull fuel all the way out above 22 mm/hg to keep it from popping like SRTs do. I don't remember what the boost maps start at, but I remember that it scales up by units of 4. The rpm table starts around 86. I have run 30# which is the max (MAP limit) of my system but typically run 27# with a 60 shot. Obviously things are quite linear, and the rpms tables won't be completely so, but once they are set, and you have your boost scaler, which will be very linear, run it all the way to max in case you do **** up and overboost; do the same with boost retard. The boost fuel values, once deemed adequate, will never change; if you swap heads you will only alter rpm values

[speeduphoria]

Quote:

Originally Posted by t3rse I can give you my maps but I am using standard +40s so if you will probably have to scale it, and I can't guarantee the tune, but I run a shit ton of timing and have never melted a motor, with 12.2 afr below 15# and 11.7 above. I would really like to go a little leaner down low for spool but I have problems blowing the slicks away in 1 through 4 as is... tuning the SDS is pretty easy though: First, take the WG can off and let the flapper float. Set the total timing to 35* and start the boost retard at 6# and pull 1 degree until you hit 35. Set the rpm air/fuels without boost and get them around 13.0, which is about optimal for an equivalent N/A motor. Then hook it back up, and set really conservative boot fuel maps, i.e. super rich. Pull fuel out in the bottom end and watch thing. Once you have two points of reference you have the slope and the rest is cake. Do not use max boost cut becuase it pulls fuel instead of spark and it will blow head gaskets, I have had this happen MANY times. The knock sensing is also shit. You have to stay on top of things. Use some sort of external knock detection and remove boost retard (add timing back) until you get a reading. This is the most timing and boost you can run for a given gas/boost. I have it pull fuel all the way out above 22 mm/hg to keep it from popping like SRTs do. I don't remember what the boost maps start at, but I remember that it scales up by units of 4. The rpm table starts around 86. I have run 30# which is the max (MAP limit) of my system but typically run 27# with a 60 shot. Obviously things are quite linear, and the rpms tables won't be completely so, but once they are set, and you have your boost scaler, which will be very linear, run it all the way to max in case you do **** up and overboost; do the same with boost retard. The boost fuel values, once deemed adequate, will never change; if you swap heads you will only alter rpm values

Is this for 8v? What CR?

i have a 2.4 and tried that knock sensor, had to turn the sensativite way down to like 2, it still wants to hicup once and awhile at part throttle, not sure if the some what stiff motor mounts play a large factor or not? Going to move the knock sensor from the top of block to the middle if that doesnt work then no more knock sensor.

When you say you pull fuel all the way out above 22, you put 0's? Are you using the TP fuel cut also?

what kind of A/F @idle do you get, mine likes ~13:1 and not much leaner or gets ruff.

I also had the start setup great but I messed w/ some things and now it fires right up, but doesnt want to stay running(till it warms up), thought the colder plugs could be some of it?. Also my vac is lower till its warmed up also.

[t3rse]

pulling fuel in vac set the values to 0. i had false knock because of a loose bobble strut. mine idles around 13:1, but I drilled a 1/8 hole in the tb blade as I have no idle air, and i have to keep the idle around 900 or it goes up and down.

generally I have found they don't need as much start-up fuel as I thought, and I still can't get mine to start up perfect. If it's medium temp it starts right up, bounces up and down twice, then levels, but hot or cold and i have stay on the throttle a few seconds to get it to level, or else it'll putter out. colder plugs could definitely make her a little harder to start.

[David Rose]

Thanks for the info if you have the fuel maps i will have to adapt to my 83lbs injectors but hat wont be a problem.Not using knock sensor SDS advised not to.Mine idles well around 1000 rpm no hunting.Using 112 octane fuel from now on so i should be able run a steep timing curve.You can email me the maps to davidandcindy@sympatico.ca thanks

[speeduphoria]

Quote:

Originally Posted by t3rse pulling fuel in vac set the values to 0.

the reason I was asking is because when I did similar, rev'd it up it would stall. This was w/ the TP fuel cut also, may try it again but have to leave the fuel #'s in vac right above idle vac higher so it dosent stall.

[Adam]

How the hell did you get that t- stat housing to work, i hate my long ass run of copper tube and hose to the drivers side of the head, also where did you get that fuel rail, and will if fit my 98 caravan manifold that is cut and welded almost exactly like yours.

[David Rose]

T stat housing is from a 3.3 dynasty bolts right on,rad is a pro stock sirrocco type 3 core aluminum, both outlets on the passenger side.I made the fuel rail myself from extruded 1/2" fuel rail stock

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adam How the hell did you get that t- stat housing to work, i hate my long ass run of copper tube and hose to the drivers side of the head, also where did you get that fuel rail, and will if fit my 98 caravan manifold that is cut and welded almost exactly like yours.