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01-19-2004, 04:58 PM
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#1
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Hybrid cam gear idea
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Chicago, IL
My Ride: 1990 Dodge Caravan
Engine: 2.5 T1 Intercooled
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Well I got off my ass and placed the head back on the spare block I have in the garage. It looks like I can make up a set of gears pretty easily that require no spacers anywhere. It LOOKS like I can bore the centers of the SOHC gears out to 1 3/8 so that they just slide over the largest part of the DOHC cam sticking out of the head. Then, it looks like I can cut the center of the DOHC gears out so that they just fit inside the SOHC gears with a 4 1/4 bit. Now each of the "arms" of the DOHC centers can be drilled to accept a bolt and corresponding slots can be cut into the SOHC gears. Now the assembly can be assembled like so:
The SOHC gears slide over the shank of the cam so that the old face of the SOHC gear faces the engine. Then the DOHC center can be installed on the cam so that the 2.4 side faces out. Then the bolts can be inserted through the holes into the slots so that the SOHC gear is held away from the valve cover onto the DOHC center. Granted, this method does not have any timing marks or anything but at least if offers some adjustability when it comes time to centerline the cams. The location of the SOHC gear appears to line up with the rest of the sprockets so that no spacers are needed. I have not attempted to do this yet but I plan to in the next few days. Any comments or concerns are welcome!
Thanks!
Ryan Lada
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01-19-2004, 05:25 PM
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#2
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Boca Raton, Florida
My Ride: 85 shelby charger
Engine: 2.2 liter I-4
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Well its worth a try anyways. This setup is so new I'm sure there is going to be all kinds of stuff people try. I need to get ahold of some DOHC cam gears and see what I can do to try to mate the to and make them adjustable. The difficulty just lies in how good of a machinist you are! I have been thinking the easiest way way would be to use the center of the DOHC sprocket and find a way to mate the outer ring of the SOHC sprocket to it, but I also dont have them in my hands to compare, BTW anyone know if the Neon Sohc sprocket is the same as the DOHC?
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01-19-2004, 08:58 PM
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#3
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Chicago, IL
My Ride: 1990 Dodge Caravan
Engine: 2.5 T1 Intercooled
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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My only concern is that the 6 "arms" on the DOHC center are too weak to be drilled for the adjustment bolts. Even if they are it seems pretty easy to make a solid insert for the SOHC cam and then just drill it out like the DOHC center (23/32 bit I think) and a hole for the pin. We will have to see, I may try to do all this with just a drill press.
Ryan Lada
Last edited by zombezoo; 01-19-2004 at 09:49 PM.
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01-20-2004, 10:20 PM
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#4
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Chicago, IL
My Ride: 1990 Dodge Caravan
Engine: 2.5 T1 Intercooled
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Well not much feedback yet, I did some more measuring and it seems like everything will fit... I may need to change the size of the hole in the SOHC gear. I’m not sure if it would be more beneficial to have the SOHC gears tight on the shanks of the cam, of if a looser fit would be better. I hope to get a chance to machine the gears and some new centers (instead of reusing the stock neon ones) on Friday or Saturday. I will post some results when I get a chance to try it all out.
Thanks!
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01-20-2004, 11:56 PM
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#6
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Chicago, IL
My Ride: 1990 Dodge Caravan
Engine: 2.5 T1 Intercooled
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Did you still have to space the other sprockets out? I read the other thread with your post; I was going to do a similar thing till I saw that I might be able to get away only modifying the cam gears and not using the spacers on the other sprockets. I guess we will see.
Thanks for your reply!
Ryan Lada
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01-21-2004, 05:11 PM
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#9
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Chicago, IL
My Ride: 1990 Dodge Caravan
Engine: 2.5 T1 Intercooled
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally posted by soupcan
No i didn't space the others out, i got the cam gears as close as i could get them to the head and the belt looks good without spacing anything else.
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That's awesome, I think this is the best way since you wont have to worry about things slipping out of alignment as you might have to worry about with the slots on everything. I will try to document the process the best I can.
Thanks!
Ryan Lada
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01-21-2004, 06:00 PM
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#10
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Under A Rock
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally posted by soupcan
I posted this in another thread already and it is the best way i could figure to do cam gears.
This is what i did for cam gears:
I machined the outside of the 2.2 cam gear hub(bolt side) almost flush, this will be the new cam side. Then insert a solid spacer, then welded both sides, machine inside surface flat and the faced the other side flat. Then drill the spacer to the size of the dohc cam. Pull pin on dohc cams, install new gears, centerline cams (advance/retard whatever you like) and tighten bolt and washer then drill new pin hole, install new pin and turn washer then tighten bolt. No need to space out anything. Just my way of doing it. Hope it makes sense as i wrote this quickly as i have to leave.
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There isnt any room. The closest point of contact of the cam gears with the head is smaller than the necessary .4" they would need to go inboard. I'd take a picture with a ruler and show you if I wasnt out of town. I would certainly like to see pics of yours.
One option would be to machine the gear part of the cam gears to be skinnier, as the belt is slightly smaller than the gear itself. I am not sure how much room could be gained by that.
BTW, I have been out of town all month and dont have access to the net. I will be out of town for a bit longer so dont expect any response. :\
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01-21-2004, 10:28 PM
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#12
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Chicago, IL
My Ride: 1990 Dodge Caravan
Engine: 2.5 T1 Intercooled
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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What I did to verify that there was enough clearance was to take the head and attach it to the block, then I took a straight edge and used the intermediate shaft sprocket to project a line up to where the cam sprockets are, Then I took a SOHC sprocket and set it against the straight edge and took a measurement from the backside of the sprocket to the head, and there is enough clearance for the sprocket to fit, but it requires machining of the SOHC sprocket to get the offset right. This is the method I have decided to go since it allows me to retain the stock mounting position/method for all the accessories.
Ryan Lada
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01-22-2004, 07:07 PM
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#14
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Under A Rock
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally posted by zombezoo
What I did to verify that there was enough clearance was to take the head and attach it to the block, then I took a straight edge and used the intermediate shaft sprocket to project a line up to where the cam sprockets are, Then I took a SOHC sprocket and set it against the straight edge and took a measurement from the backside of the sprocket to the head, and there is enough clearance for the sprocket to fit, but it requires machining of the SOHC sprocket to get the offset right. This is the method I have decided to go since it allows me to retain the stock mounting position/method for all the accessories.
Ryan Lada
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Well, it seems I am back home for a few days (till Monday) so I can respond.
Straight edge or not, as soon as you install the gears you will see what I am talking about. If offset back far enough to not require spacers, the cam gears will actually contact the head. You see, its not in an obvious location. There are certain protrusions on the bottom side that are much closer to the cam gears than the part that you straight edged. I have here a working set installed and could easily show you.
Also, your whole idea still requires cam bushings...which I assume you will be making?
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