Dyno was somewhat successful

Peak torque about 5200rpm, peak power on the last run when we split the block was 5500rpm. (Yes we split the block, cylinder bore #3 now has a nice 2.5" crack in it. The head gasket was fine.)

[Shmiggz]

What year block were you using?

[FFWD]

1989 2.5 common block out of a minivan. I was talking to some people who had sonic tested a bunch of blocks, and the 2.5's were the thinnest. The new block is going to be filled, so I don't think we will have this problem again. The new block is a 2.2 89 T2 common block.

Race weight will be around 2725-50 lbs

Leon

[DirectConnection]

Leon, any timeframe when your car will be hitting the rollers again? Kinda anxious to see some new #s.

Most likely we'll have it back on the dyno over the next week...... Leons been out of town for awhile, so the marvelle bros. team is down a man.

[russ jerome]

Keep and eye out for this common block for future builups:

http://hometown.aol.com/russjerome/images/mexb1.jpg

Goofy big "C" on front. It's been mentioned in past on FMML and from Mopar engineers I am guessing it is not folklore. Mexican cast blocks bare that mark and are said to be thicker and more consistant for core shift. Late production RT's and supposedly used up at end of production 2.5 TBI's.

[russ jerome]

And awesome job with previous block testing! You guys rock.

Thanks Russ. We're tossing around some long rod, or de-stroker ideas. We're going to put this current one together, get it to the track, run some times, and then re-think our game plan over the winter.

[russ jerome]

Long rod stuff would be interesting. I have a running 2.5 Tall block here if you guy's get into it, knowing you would test it makes it free! The early tall blocks are just non-common stuff but block filled and properly built it may help you build that 1.80 stroker you want.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/per...rodengine.html

1.80 stroke and a 16v......we are moving out of the 70's and strait to cutting edge race motors now

[DirectConnection]

That's been my gameplan for the past year. Destroke a stock 2.2 forged crank to make 2.0 liters. Neon 16v head conversion should really make some crazy peak HP #s! Looks like someone will be beating me to the punch as I haven't even finished my 2.5 sohc project.

[QKsilverF1]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DirectConnection That's been my gameplan for the past year. Destroke a stock 2.2 forged crank to make 2.0 liters. Neon 16v head conversion should really make some crazy peak HP #s! Looks like someone will be beating me to the punch as I haven't even finished my 2.5 sohc project.

how do you destroke without changing to a differnt crank? i thought to destroke you had to go with a crank with a smaller stroke? did i misunderstand what you wrote?

If we de-stroked it, yes we would need a different crank. What we would do, is get a 2.2 forged crank welded and offset ground. V8 guys have been doing it for years.

The decision was made today to go with a 2.2. As per Russ' suggestion, pick up a mexican common block and get custom rods and pistons (no I'm not posting lengths or specs). We can fit a ring pack closer to the top of the piston, and use pin buttons, cause the oil ring will be on the wrist pin, and get a very respectable, 1.74 ratio. The 2.5 is around 1.45. We may run into problems with belt length going with the tall block, so this was our other option. We could always go with a bigger bore to make up some of the lost 18 cubes.

Someone was running chev rods in a 2.2 T3, anyone remember who?

[DirectConnection]

That would be Matt Leischer I believe.
Haven't heard much from him in a year or so.

[russ jerome]

Matt is alive and well in AZ working at Hughes Performance, was just up here recently. Those were Titanium rods, so light they would give a guy wood just to hold in hand. He is trying another option with those rods so hold off on quoting the exact specs till it is up and running/tested again.

[RacerStev]

You might want to try the SRT head gasket rather then the standard 2.4 gasket,
it has a thicker O ring built into it. TO make it work with a older 2.4 head you need to block the front oil return hole in both the block and the head. It's
heald up to a ton of power with my combo.

IMO, 26 degrees even with C 16 is alot of timing. I'd pull at least 6 degrees and try
agein.