Neon head oiling

[Andre Parker]

This is for people contemplating the neon head route. For those that have done it, they will know what I am talking about. The neon heads oil the head through the drivers side, rear head bolt area. This is where you chould see on a neon head gasket where a slot is for oil to go to the head and oils the cam(s) and rocker gear. There will also be a vent tube on the front of the head (Which would face the radiator) Hope this info may help some looking to do this.

[mock_glh]

All the hybrid motors I have seen have a tube of some sort to route oil from the block to the head. You can eliminate this by removing the plug on the back of the head and drill a 1/4" hole through the head to the other bolt hole. There is solid metal all the way so you won't hit water. Replace the plug and then grind a slot next to the front bolt hole. You may also want to drill the head bolt hole a little bigger for better flow past the bolt. This mod will make your conversion cleaner and less leak prone.

[KClarryb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mock_glh All the hybrid motors I have seen have a tube of some sort to route oil from the block to the head. You can eliminate this by removing the plug on the back of the head and drill a 1/4" hole through the head to the other bolt hole. There is solid metal all the way so you won't hit water. Replace the plug and then grind a slot next to the front bolt hole. You may also want to drill the head bolt hole a little bigger for better flow past the bolt. This mod will make your conversion cleaner and less leak prone.

Great idea but....., isn't there always a but in there , the Neon head does not completely cover the oil supply passage on the 8 valve block. So you still have to plug the oil supply passage in the block and drill another angled passage toward the bolt hole, but this is also one of the bolt holes that you have to drill out for one of the head alignment dowel pins. This is assuming your going to use the Neon head gasket, if you use the 8 valve gasket you would probably have to get some welding done to the head so that it will cover the oil supply passage and seal to the gasket.
I'm sure it can be done, but for me it only cost $1.00 worth of steel tubing (did I mention I do a lot of shopping at flea markets ) and if you keep it close to the block it's reasonably clean. No leaks yet.

[Dean Stillie]

Sounds like a good idea .
Its just that the oil line to the head is already on its way to the turbo so the line would still be there just one less "T" into it

[Andre Parker]

I am going to cap off all the stock head oiling ports and just feed it externally.

[russ jerome]

Modifying the intake cams far right cap will lower the amount of oil that has to be drained to pan. The cap has 2 bleeds that pour a lot of oil into valve cover area that is useless for us. More oil volume/pressure available for crank as a bonus. Stock SRT4 regulated pressure to head drops as low as 17/18 psi warm and idling if your dialing in the volume of oil to head.

[mock_glh]

I welded the head to cover the oil passage and everywhere else that would leak. The only modification to the block would be to plug the oil drain holes. I'll be using the 2.2/2.5 head gasket. Around here it seems you can only get twin cam Neon gaskets at the Dealer for around $52, and you usually have to order them. The other ones are $20 and there's always a local store with one in stock.

[turboking]

Thats what i did the first time around(welded the head). After i put it on the car, the cam towers warped.

Carl

[Shmiggz]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mock_glh I welded the head to cover the oil passage and everywhere else that would leak. The only modification to the block would be to plug the oil drain holes. I'll be using the 2.2/2.5 head gasket. Around here it seems you can only get twin cam Neon gaskets at the Dealer for around $52, and you usually have to order them. The other ones are $20 and there's always a local store with one in stock.

I wouldn't go with the felpro 2.2/2.5 gasket. I hear they are crap. On Gary Donovan's site, it says someting like he's seen them fail with in 5,000 miles. I would not trust it on a high perfromance dohc engine. I think its around $25 for the mopar one.

[russ jerome]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mock_glh I'll be using the 2.2/2.5 head gasket. .

Take a good long look at the front coolant passages left of the T-stat area were 16v head meets. After that lay the 8v head gasket on 16v head and look at same area were oil may leak, spend the money on correct 16v gasket.

[Andre Parker]

Is it better to use the MLS gasket or does Cometic make one for this application that may be a little thicker??

[scott]

the neon mls gasket is fine...i've run 25psi on 93 so the compression ration isn't too high that's for sure on mine (2.5 using 2.5 T3 pistons).

--Scott

[turbometh]

I am using the 2.5 mp gasket, I welded the head(coolant passages) to match the 2.5 gasket. Had head milled when I was done welding and only had to take off .004 to get it straight. I hope I do not run into any problems. It sounds like most of you are using the 2.4 mls gasket. I am goind to be 25-30 lbs on methanol with a standalone.

[Shmiggz]

I think most are using the mls gasket. I think you can get a thicker one but I guess it would depend on the compression ratio you are looking for. The ideal way would be using custom pistons on a stock thickness head gasket.

[russ jerome]

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbometh I am using the 2.5 mp gasket, I welded the head(coolant passages) to match the 2.5 gasket. .

Last rambling from me, triple check the oil/water passages just to left of T-stat area before installing. This is not an area to save $10, my car is driven daily with NO leaks since going over to the MLS stock gasket like Scott has said it holds 20psi and 200* coolant. The MLS is better anyway and you will be making power you never dreamed of after this conversion