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06-21-2005, 03:17 PM
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#1
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To All The Haters of My 12 Dollar Cam Gears
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
My Ride: 1987 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.5 16v
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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06-21-2005, 04:19 PM
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#3
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
My Ride: 1987 LeBaron
Engine: 2.2L Turbo II
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.510
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Looks pretty sharp Garret, man we need to get you a better camera though. You take tons of pictures of all sorts of stuff, it'd be a goood investment
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06-21-2005, 05:01 PM
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#4
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Cherry Hill, People's Republic
My Ride: 87' T-Top Shelby Z
Engine: 2.2 T2, A555, open
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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dont know about the gears but im hating on the camera  +1 for joryns post
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06-21-2005, 06:18 PM
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#6
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Isle De Muerta (Perryopolis PA)
My Ride: The Black Pearl
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by Khajjathefang
dont know about the gears but im hating on the camera  +1 for joryns post
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X2
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06-21-2005, 08:08 PM
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#7
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
My Ride: 1987 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.5 16v
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I'll get a better one someday lol it's just from my camera phone, as for waterneck clearance I'm blocking off the factory hole and going for the core plug on the side of the head
homemade cam gears
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06-22-2005, 01:12 PM
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#10
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
My Ride: 1987 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.5 16v
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Yes these ones are balanced, but the Balancing on them is not as big of a problem as you think. The machinest that balanced these ones for me told the best thing you can do to "avoid" having them balanced to to remove all unnesscary weight off the gears like in between the bolt holes and what not. Also because these are what are driving the cams the balance on them isn't as big of an issue because they aren't a free weight spinning. He really did put an emphasis on making the gears as light as possible if I didn't want to balance the next set I made. Hell with a drill press these gears should be easy as pie to make 100% centered. I made one gear that was spot on and the othere one was slightly out. But after turning the crank with the belt on timing stayed dead on the money for those rotations so I don't think it's that big a deal if it's "slightly" off
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06-22-2005, 06:27 PM
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#11
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Duncan, Vancouver Island, BC,CANADA
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by Garret
Yes these ones are balanced, but the Balancing on them is not as big of a problem as you think. The machinest that balanced these ones for me told the best thing you can do to "avoid" having them balanced to to remove all unnesscary weight off the gears like in between the bolt holes and what not. Also because these are what are driving the cams the balance on them isn't as big of an issue because they aren't a free weight spinning. He really did put an emphasis on making the gears as light as possible if I didn't want to balance the next set I made. Hell with a drill press these gears should be easy as pie to make 100% centered. I made one gear that was spot on and the othere one was slightly out. But after turning the crank with the belt on timing stayed dead on the money for those rotations so I don't think it's that big a deal if it's "slightly" off
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mine better be spot on... i know where you live
LOL
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06-22-2005, 07:49 PM
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#12
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: browntown, nj
My Ride: 84 rampage
Engine: 2.2L T3
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 10.850
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How did you determine the cam timing? Did you degree the cams and adjust with offset keys? If not, worst case scenario you might have the exhaust cam 9* retarded and the intake cam 8* advanced. Definately gonna hurt performance if the cams are both drasticaly out. You might get lucky and they are both within a degree or 2 from the correct centerline, but you won't know without finding TDC with a piston stop, then checking cam timing with a degree wheel and dial indicator. Keep up with the fabrication, and good luck. Don't take this as a flame, I'm just offering some advice.
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06-23-2005, 12:46 AM
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#13
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
My Ride: 1987 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.5 16v
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Cams are aligned as per the FSM for neons, cams straight up and down with pistons at TDC, as close as I can get it without a dial indicator, but it's timed as well as it can be and it holds after the rotations, and I appeciate all constructive feedback
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06-23-2005, 07:35 PM
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#14
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2005
My Ride: 1987 caravan
Engine: 2.2 carb
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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how can I tell how much back spacing for custom cam spockets?
Pictures doesn't show very clearly how close these spockets are to the head's itself.
Cheers, Wizard
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06-23-2005, 08:17 PM
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#15
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Bremerton, WA
My Ride: Horizon GLH-T
Engine: 2.5L Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.900
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Don't you mean $12 camera? heh.. Looks like the gears will do the job.
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