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08-20-2005, 05:20 AM
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#2
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Ravenna, Ohio
My Ride: 89 Spirit ES
Engine: 2.5 STD TII 20psi
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.726
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Folks like to think that doing the 16v conversion is expensive. It only is when you swap the TIII motor in, go out and get a Stratus 2.4 motor and a Neon tranny, swap the trannys internals and whatnot, get a custom calibration from FWD Performance, and all the other neccasities.
I was promised that in my Spirit doing this swap that I can see high 11's for around $1,500.
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08-20-2005, 04:33 PM
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#4
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Wichita, Kansas
My Ride: 2004 SRT4
Engine: 2.4
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.680
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I think Russ Jerome is selling his Omni. It runs 12's and is his daily driver. If you already have one, then I think YES it's worth it. The 2.4 swap Ohiorob did is an awsome swap as well. Either one is going to require some custom fab work, but if you have even basic skills, you CAN do this. I'm in the process of building a magnum head hybrid, a dohc hybrid and a regular sohc hybrid swaps for a few different cars.
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08-21-2005, 01:15 AM
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#5
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Milw. WI
My Ride: No slicks Omni
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.036
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Just walked in from track, drove there and home with
passengers on old tires. Low 12's at 120mph on street
rubber I think its worth it but depends on you fabrication
skills. I got a turn key Hybrid Omni for YOU! 26mpg and
you can waste Saleen SC Mustangs on your lunch break 
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08-21-2005, 07:40 AM
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#7
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Hampshire,TN.
My Ride: 1987 shelby csx
Engine: 2.4 dohc conversion
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by Dave
Folks like to think that doing the 16v conversion is expensive. It only is when you swap the TIII motor in, go out and get a Stratus 2.4 motor and a Neon tranny, swap the trannys internals and whatnot, get a custom calibration from FWD Performance, and all the other neccasities.
I was promised that in my Spirit doing this swap that I can see high 11's for around $1,500.
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It is definately not that easy there is a lot of fabrication to be done and as far as money goes you can do high 11's in an omni cheaper with an 8 valve setup.Just put it this way I have 1300.00 into just rods and pistons,turbo sc6152 another 700.00 external wastegate another 240.00 and you havent even begun to buy the things you need.Granted you dont have to use pauter billet rods but I think forged pistons are definately a necessity.
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08-21-2005, 07:55 AM
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#8
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: www.TurboDodge.com
My Ride: 1991 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.5L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.000
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08-21-2005, 02:21 PM
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#9
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
My Ride: 1987 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.5 16v
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I think if you have the ask the question if it's worth it. It's not the swap for you because it is a lot of work and it'll nickle and dime you to death if you aren't good at pre-planning. My advice would be to just stick with a warmed up 8v until you feel confident re-engineering your car. Until that point it's probably not a good idea
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08-22-2005, 12:11 AM
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#10
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Cherry Hill, People's Republic
My Ride: 87' T-Top Shelby Z
Engine: 2.2 T2, A555, open
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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price on these bad boys varies wildly depending on what parts you go with, junkyard or otherwise and how much fab work you can do yourself
I myself am going the over the top route thanks to the US taxpayers  heres a picture
Crane #14 Cams 399.95
Crane titanium springs/retainers 269.95
Ferrea Inconel valves 303.84
PT style lifters 99.95
SBI rockers 139.95
Aluminum Rods 520.00
head studs 112.00
venolia pistons 429.00
magnacore wires 79.00
manifolds 400.00 (i payed twice this but have since seen each for much cheaper  )
cam gears 269.00
head/block 200.00
current total 3222.64
and thats not counting shipping, a turbo, tranny mods, porting, the standalone i want etc...
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08-22-2005, 03:40 AM
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#11
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Hampshire,TN.
My Ride: 1987 shelby csx
Engine: 2.4 dohc conversion
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Thats about the same setup Im running except I went with pauter rods instead of grp's.
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09-12-2005, 07:25 PM
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#12
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Meridian, Idaho
My Ride: 1993 Iroc R/T
Engine: 16v DOHC 2.2 Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Couldn't the factory forged rods hold up just fine, even at 400+ hp?
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09-16-2005, 03:44 PM
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#13
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: west wareham, massachusetts
My Ride: 89 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.5L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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one thing i've noticed so far is the cars that i've seen pictures of with the hybrid setup run automatics, can the A555 or 568 take the power from a hybrid? just as a thought, stock rebuilt bottom end on a 2.5 and a stock T3 with stock intercooler and various little things. mainly just the head swapped and ran. will the manual trannies take the abuse of racing occaisiinally and the usual highway speed ups and slow downs?
Scott
89 Daytona Shelby 2.5 "T2" wishin for a garret...
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11-11-2005, 10:18 PM
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#15
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Calgary
My Ride: 1990 Dodge Shadow ES
Engine: 2.2l Intercooled Tur
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 15.480
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I think people should just set a budget on what they are willing to dish out for a new engine, I mean you are building a new engine right? Figure out what you can afford, price everything out and go from there. Or you can do it over the winter (when you generally cant race) and by the end of the season your ready to go! $500 a month for 6 months of winter, and you have $3000 for play. (may not apply to those south of canada EH) Having a second income might help too.
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