Belt clearence issue

[QKsilverF1]

it looks like im going to have some clearence issues for my belt. here are some pictures to show where it would be hitting if i were to use a tensioner in the stock or near stock position. It looks like im going to have to use a tensioner on the front side of the belt (near the alternator) to make everything clear. also it looks like the belt tension even with a smaller tensioner would be way too high (if i can ever find one to try it out) how did you guys solve this problem (clearence/tension)

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...57770842OCzuDP
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...57771119KFmsGS
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...57770679iBwaqy
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...57770784tJgzsF

p.s hey russ does that intake manifold look familiar?

[QKsilverF1]

Russ i noticed on your website that on your dakota you put a tensioner right under the intake cam. i dont think there is any way my belt would be able to stretch that far its just way too tight. are you running a larger belt?? i know i wouldnt be able to get away with putting one there because of the motor mount but even if i could my belt just isnt long enough

[scott]

you can see how mine is setup here:

http://www-unix.oit.umass.edu/~sdean...d/hybrid46.jpg

[Mike Radowski]

you can see two different intakes in this picture. the right one clears without a tensioner in the front.

[Mike Radowski]

i just checked your pics, and you have that style intake. with the proper belt tension, it should clear fine. your belt was loose in the pics above.

[QKsilverF1]

alright thanks guys

[scott]

you will probably have to grind a bit off the tstat housing to give it a bit more clearance...but other than that you'll be ok.

[whywoody]

On mine,I removed the stud in photo1,and mounted the small diameter tall block tensioner there.It cam from a '88 2.5ltr reliant sedan,at the local wreckers.
I also fliped the tensioner around from normal,shimed it out with 2 large diameter body washers(approx 1/8 total),and welded a large nut to the now outside face,so I could adjust tension.This seems to have aligned perfect with standard crank and intermediate shaft gears.
I had to trim back the rolled lip on the top of the p/steer pump bracket,to clear everything too,if you haven't already.

I used a stratus intake,and found that with a pipe plug in the old temp sensor hole,the plug and the rough casting line had to be ground back a little,but with the belt on and tensioned it clears the T stat housing fine.

Photos look good!!!

[lancer402]

QKsilver
I was able to use the 249 belt, small tensioner in stock position and didnt have any clearance issues. That is after I took a ginder to the thermo housing.
I moved the coolant temp sensor to a weldolet on the bottom of the thermo housing. I had to weld the weldolet on, it wasn't there to begin with.

The stud for the PS pump bracket had to be changed to a bolt that I ground some off the top also.

I also tapped the two oil galleys in the head with 1/4" npt instead of pressing new freeze plugs in. The cam pulleys come very close to these and I had to grind them down as well.

There are a few pics that my help at www.geocities.com/shelby16v
Andy

[Adam]

Sweet this was exacly what I was looking for. I went to put my belt on and it didnt fit. My neighbor is yanking the motor out of his 83 600 so there is my tensioner. And to add to the info, if anyones cam gears are hitting their valve cover as were mine I am using a 99 stratus 2.4 head, a 2.0 avenger/talon/eclipse valve cover works great other than two eliminated bolt holes, the spark pug holes are a little off but hey the cover was free, it works good and I think its a better looking cover anyway.