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09-27-2005, 11:56 AM
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#1
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3.0 Engine Part Swaps...
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Moose Jaw, SK Canada
My Ride: 88 Plymouth Voyager
Engine: Mitsubishi 3.0
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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Just a thought....
Is it possible to swap the newer 24-valve SOHC heads onto any 3.0 bottom? I also thought of just swapping the whole engine because the orientation is correct unlike the Stealth/3000GT engines.
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09-29-2005, 12:11 AM
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#2
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Florida
My Ride: 93 Dodge Daytona ES
Engine: 3.0L MMC V-6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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i'm pretty sure the water jackets are different...
as well as the knock sensor being in a different location (don't think sohc even have one..)
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09-30-2005, 10:45 AM
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#3
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Moose Jaw, SK Canada
My Ride: 88 Plymouth Voyager
Engine: Mitsubishi 3.0
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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Well I did read on a post somewhere that the Stealth/3000GT internals are the same. It's just the heads that are different.
Same pistons, etc...
If I did a rebuild of a Chrysler 3.0 with Stealth/3000GT internals, would it make for better power?
I would like to keep the 3.0 platform but it's almost looking like I would have to do 2.5 TII Turbo swap to get significant gains.
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09-30-2005, 11:55 AM
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#4
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.000
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Most of those websites are old.
Some information non of them have yet is that the 24v timing belt tensioners cant bolt up to the sohc block. Water jackets are not a big deal even if they dont line up.
Dont worry about the knock sensor.
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09-30-2005, 05:23 PM
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#5
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Moose Jaw, SK Canada
My Ride: 88 Plymouth Voyager
Engine: Mitsubishi 3.0
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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Are the engine mounts similiar bewteen the 12-valve & 24-valve 3.0's?
I'm assuming it would probably be easier to swap the whole engine /w ECU.
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09-30-2005, 05:53 PM
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#6
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Houston Texas
My Ride: 89 Shadow
Engine: 2.5 turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.990
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it is easier and cheaper to just swap a motor in a weld up some mouts and stuf. the bolts are the same fro the head but everything else is diff.
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09-30-2005, 11:10 PM
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#7
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.000
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Yes.
You cant run the 24 valve motors with our engine computer currently. You would require after market engine management. The one nice thing is this.
Your dodge will be significantly lighter then ANY 3000gt.
Another thing to keep in mind. The Highest Trap speed 3000gt in the world is a FWD using a BONE STOCK 2 bolt, cast crank block, n/a heads. traps 139+mph right now.
He is using old DR's. If he had decent traction, his 11.3-11.4@137-139 would easily be the fastest 3000gt in the world. Who needs AWD????????????? Who needs huge top end power loss? Not me.
Anyways, considering how light our cars are, I think the dodges are a great platform.
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10-01-2005, 07:49 PM
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#8
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Auburn, IN
My Ride: 90 Lebaron GTC
Engine: 2.5 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Actually if I am not mistaken his original statement was concerning the 24V SOHC heads. Those line up just fine with our blocks. I have not gotten the chance to load camshafts and gears to the heads I have here but the heads do physically fit. I would think that if you used our lowerend timing set up with a custom belt length they should be able to fit on and work. Keep in mind it will take some customizing of the intake and exhaust manifolds.
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10-01-2005, 09:05 PM
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#9
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Moose Jaw, SK Canada
My Ride: 88 Plymouth Voyager
Engine: Mitsubishi 3.0
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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@ CrazyAce
Correct, that is what I meant. I was wondering if the 24V SOHC heads would bolt onto any 3.0 bottom end.
But it would probably make better sense to just swap the whole 24V engine, no?
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10-02-2005, 12:45 AM
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#10
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by crazyace
Actually if I am not mistaken his original statement was concerning the 24V SOHC heads. Those line up just fine with our blocks. I have not gotten the chance to load camshafts and gears to the heads I have here but the heads do physically fit. I would think that if you used our lowerend timing set up with a custom belt length they should be able to fit on and work. Keep in mind it will take some customizing of the intake and exhaust manifolds.
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Do you think that would put enough tension on the belt? Ive heard that the 24v setups have a LOT of pressure on the timing belt......most likely because of the interferance design. On our motors its not biggie for the belt to slip......
Ive also heard that the large plate that bolts to the side of our motor will have problems bolting in completely.
I still havent gotten a clear answer about the bosses on the engine being compatible enough to straight bolt on chrysler accessories.
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10-02-2005, 12:31 PM
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#11
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Auburn, IN
My Ride: 90 Lebaron GTC
Engine: 2.5 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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As far as the accessory drive goes. You will most likely be designing up an alternator bracket. You may even have to make a new engine mounting plate or adapt the old one, to clear the belt.
As for mounting the 24V SOHC engine in our cars you will have to design your own mounts, wire in the computer system from the car the engine came from, make a completely custom exhaust, adapt the accessories to function in the old parts places.
Has anyone involved in this discussion happened to check and see if there are any companies modifying the computers for the 24V SOHC cars. If there are it may just be worth the work to try and wire in one of the early model OBDII computers with that engine combo.
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10-02-2005, 01:52 PM
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#12
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.000
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My thoughts are just to go Megasquirt for the computer
With my turbo setup. I basically would just need to reflange my rear manifold and build a new front manifold to hook that part up.
You would not need new tranny mounts, or bobble strut, and if you got the side plate to fit, then the passenger mount would fit. Not sure about the front mount. Im sure the parts of it that connect to the tranny would still work just fine, you would probably just need to worry about the 2 bolts that hang off a support bracket that isnt even part of the front mount. That would not be to bad to redesign/relocate. They bolt to the head. There is 1 bolt on the front mount that does also bolt to the head. I would assume this would be the most annoying part to fix.
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10-02-2005, 06:03 PM
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#13
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Moose Jaw, SK Canada
My Ride: 88 Plymouth Voyager
Engine: Mitsubishi 3.0
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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Wow, sounds like a big project but that engine looks soooo nice...

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10-03-2005, 01:01 AM
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#14
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.000
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The motor actually has some problems. The front and rear heads have different diamter cams, and the front head tends to run hotter and blow up. That would end up being the rear head for us.
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10-05-2005, 04:49 AM
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#15
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.000
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Hey, I bought a montero intake manifold today, lower and upper. I will build myself a short runner log manifold out of it. Hopefully I will have plenty of room for a future direct port alky injection system and maybe some nitrous.
Im thinking it would be best to build that into the lower manifold since I dont have to fabricate that part. I will then go to work building the upper manifold. I still need to find some fuel rails and injectors (looking at 50 lb/hr injectors).
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