2.7L turbo?

[joker5k1]

I was just wondering if anyone had tried to turbo one of the 2.7L v6s. I think it'd be something different, and might not be all that difficult on something like a police issue Intrepid, though I think most of those used the 3.2L or 3.5L engines. Just a thought.

-Joe
get wicked

[89acclaim]

The 2.7 does have potential, but there are some issues with that engine. The 3.5/3.2 is a very nice engine and also has a lot of potential(the 3.2 is a 3.5 with out as much bore. Best bet for ECU would be using Megasquirt. Some info http://www.allpar.com/mopar/new6.html

Daniel Merrill

[Russkels55]

has to be custom and has to be remote mount by the muffler. wish i could find someone by me to do this mod next summer. check you pm's

[jdawg]

look around on www.dodgeintrepid.net there is 'some' info there. But most people there cant even change their own oil.

[mech1nxh]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 89acclaim The 2.7 does have potential, but there are some issues with that engine. The 3.5/3.2 is a very nice engine and also has a lot of potential(the 3.2 is a 3.5 with out as much bore. Best bet for ECU would be using Megasquirt. Some info http://www.allpar.com/mopar/new6.html Daniel Merrill

info please on the 2.7 issues you have seen/heard of?? besides the allpar link
T.I.A

[phantomrt]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdawg look around on www.dodgeintrepid.net there is 'some' info there. But most people there cant even change their own oil.

Truth to the matter is that the 2.7's fail due to lack of simple maintenance. There is a TON of internet hype about what causes them to fail (sludging, coolant contamination, small oil passages, etc) but with the design of the engine, if you would change your oil on a routine basis using a name brand product they'll last a long long time. Think about it, if its an engineering flaw, why are there also a ton of these engines breaking the 200k+ mile mark? Plus, all these people starting the hype have never actually torn down these engines before only to find a failed timing chain tensioner O-ring allowing the timing chain to flop and produce a noise IDENTICAL to a rod knock.

And when the normally perfectly quiet engine starts making some type of small noise, get it fixed. Don't put it off until the water pump bearings finally go out completely and then allow coolant to gush into the oil pan.

The design isn't very much different than the 3.2 and 3.5. Yea, one uses a chain while the others use a belt, but the greatest difference I see is in the heads. The 2.7 has a bunch of upstairs oil. Part of the maintenance is maintaining proper oil level. Remove the front cover, start it up, rev it to 6,000 RPM, and watch the oil level in the pan drop like a rock in water. Yea, 2 quarts low on oil, going around a corner, and.... yea thats a problem.

[joker5k1]

Well, since we're on the topic of regular maintenance. How often do you guys flush your engine. I noticed a huge difference when I used an engine flush rather than just changing my oil. Do you think if people did this more often they have less problems with these engines?

-Joe

[TonaChris]

The 2.7 uses a chain and the 3.2/3.5 use a belt like you stated, but the big thing about that is the belt is an external piece. The chain being lubed by engine oil is an internal piece. Both run the water pump. If the pump goes on the 2.7 the water goes into the crankcase. Thats my thought on the 2.7 sludge problem. And though it isnt an epidemic, its not uncommon to have a pump go on these cars.
Also you dodgeintrepid.net is a good site to look for some basic info in the FAQ section, but as stated before the people there can barely change their oil and think if they put gears, a cone filter and exhaust on thier car that they are pretty hardcore...yes I have all that, but im not claiming it to be anything special. Im going to boost my 3.5 eventually...

[phantomrt]

Yea, in the event of a catastrophic water pump failure, coolant WILL enter the engine's crankcase and WILL ruin bearings, but at which point there will be a helluva racket from that pump. If you stopped driving it right away to get it fixed, its cheap and simple. Most people ignore such noise or put it off to get fixed "when they have the money."

However they claim that gradual seepage is to blame, which all water pumps will exhibit. That is not true as they have a water weep passage designed to exit the engine by the thermostat housing. Otherwise, in order to leak, it HAS to go through the pump's bearings, which will wipe them out plenty fast as well Plus, coolant is typically hot so most of it would go off as water vapor.

All engines sludge if you don't maintain them properly and/or use cheap $.69 / quart oil. Go through the junk yards and look at Honda's, toyotas, our turbododges, etc that already have valve covers removed. You will find instances of where it looks like they poured a bucket of tar into the engine.

Its an interference design, too, which I totally hate, but hey, so is the 2nd 3.2 and 3.5 engines.

And, you will see web sites like www.dontbuyone.com where NOT A SINGLE PERSON mentioned "maybe I shoulda kept an eye on my oil better." They all changed their oil every 3000 miles exactly. Ya, right. Maybe they never topped it off as needed.

I love my 2.7. Pick up an '01 intrepid or concorde with less than 100k miles for about $1500, slap new bearings into it (crank too to be safe) double check the rod roundness, replace some wear items like the water pump, re-use half the gaskets, start 'er up, sounds awesome.. There's more to it than that, but you get the idea. Easy rebuild. Parts aren't very cheap though.

[mech1nxh]

so.....
many apologies for steering the thread "off topic"....
it appears the 2.7 will live if properly maintained...
so....how about in a turbo'd app........(sorry joker5k1)

[Stevien1]

The early 2.7's (98-02) are the ones to avoid, this was before they worked the problems out of it. The newer ones have revised primary chain tensioners, larger oil drainbacks in the cyl heads, revised oil gallerys, more durable water pumps, etc etc. There's been a TON of updates since it came out in '98.

I personally believe that DCX had so much $$$ tied up into the production of the 2.7 that they had no choice but to keep on making the turd untill they got it right! It has been DCX's MOST EXPENSIVE engine to develop and produce.

In the JR cars, they're not THAT bad (especially with the 5sp), but they're gutless in the LH cars and in the new LX cars. Sorry, I wouldn't buy one with your money!

-Chuck James

[89acclaim]

Some info on the 2.7 and http://www.allpar.com/mopar/v6.html
and the already poasted http://www.allpar.com/mopar/new6.html

The week link with a 2.7 Turbo would be the rods and pistons.

On a side note the 3.5,3.8 and new 4.0 share the same bore as the ford 2.3 turbo so rings won't be harder to find with for custom forged pistons. I really like the 3.5s The older iron block ones aren't hard to find at all.. I haven't been able to find any on the center to center measurement of the rods though... The 3.5 isn't a transverse engine so it would be a chore of mounting it. The sad thing for all of the dodge V6s are that they almost never have been modded. You don't have nearly the community that the I4 dodges have.

Daniel Merrill

[DaPepster!]

Another resource website you can check out is www.2gss.com. These are some folks who started up their own website aside www.stratusphere.net.

One in particular member who is experimenting with 2.7L turbo (although not too rapidly as he is active military and is overseas a lot of the time) is t_vago, and some info on his ride and projects are at his website. I've talked to him for quite a long time and have chatted with him on a few of his projects, and have even purchased an MSD ignition system for my Mitsu-V6 Stratus from him.

This guy knows what he's doing.

[phantomrt]

The rods are pretty dinky in the 2.7. They're powder forged which are supposively very strong, but thats just what I've heard from the manufacturers. They always have to say they're better. Definitely cheap to produce. Compression ratio is high... something like 10:1 so gotta be careful turbocharging something like that. Its already putting out a relatively high amount of horsepower power for its size of engine, so I'd be leery about force inducting these things. I would avoid it, and choose a 3.2 or 3.5 to turbocharge. A good running 2.7 is just worth too much to be playing with like that.

What has changed on the 2.7 in 2003? I'd like to tear one apart to see for myself. The oil return passages are as big as any engine's in 1998-2000. There's not much room in the block to enlarge them, but personally I think they're big enough. Maybe up in the valvetrain area it could use some improvement. There is a single return passage in one of the heads that is very small, almost pointless to even have. I wouldn't doubt oil return is the cause of the bearing failures, especially when talking how much upstairs oil are in these things. There's a lot of cams, lots of followers, and lots of lash adjusters, a secondary chain tensioner in each head, and a small accumulator/pressure relief hole in each head, and high oil pressure increasing flow up there and a 6500 RPM redline. I think its flowing upstairs faster than gravity can drain it back down. But, maintain the oil level, and none of that will be a problem. I should have counted how many quarts it takes to bring the oil level to the bottom of the windage tray. In theory, you can overfill it up to there and not have a problem.

The primary timing chain tensioner was changed for the 2000 model year; I don't see the benefit of the new design. They have an O-ring on them that like to blow out, causing tensioner failure and a chain rattle noise that sounds just like that of a rod knock. Fixed a few of those already and made $$$$. Mechanics thought the engine was bad.

Oil pumps haven't changed one little bit. Water pumps now have a different color impeller on them (different better manufacturer maybe?) Oil pickup tubes are rumored to have changed mid 1998. I have a '98 (late?) and its the same size as the others, but 2000's still fail anyway with their larger ones so thats not the problem.

I've been having great luck rebuilding these things, so if there's anything I can easily do (updates) to make them better as I go along, I'm all ears.

[turbo xtc]

i have yet to see many good 2.7's i see maybe 75 a week go through the dealer auction and the only way i would buy one is to run it through the sale again and make a hundred bucks other than that they are the worst engine mopar has ever built i have changed 10 timing chains,ten sets of valves and 5 motors.i have never seen any other mopar bend a valve because of timing chain/belt wear you know how many jap cars do that the list is long but at least they had more 60k miles on them and they're warranty is not even as good as mopar the 2.7 is made to self destruct after the warranty is no longer in use that is daimler for you and why did they not recall these?because it is not a safety issue maybe you did'nt read allpar as good as i did or maybe i missed something please inform me if did miss something!i love chrysler before they sold to daimler i would'nt buy any daimler product but i would buy a mopar