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Old 09-01-2007, 10:36 PM   #1
Which one is better? Mitsu or Garret turbo  
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Hi my car is 91 Shelby Daytona 2.5l It has the mitsu turbo and works great. Dont know why most people prefer Garret over these, i really like the way it spools, with a touch on the accelerator and it jumps, I test drove an 87 Daytona and i guess it had garret, but the turbo kicks after a few second not right away... Could someone compare them by advantage and disadvantage. .. By the way look at my Daytona and let me know if i did a good job on fixing it. Thanks
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Old 09-02-2007, 12:59 AM   #2
 
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With the garret you get more high end boost.The mitsu doesn't pull so hard at higher RPM's. I tested this the other night lol
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Old 09-02-2007, 02:04 AM   #3
 
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First thanks for the comments Turbo-Baron I've read somewhere in here that garret is bigger and provide more boost, so they want more power, actually i want more power too but in here you cant drive fast. I planned to put the Borla exhaust first, then when i got more money i was gonna buy those 2.5" catbacks from FWD. But still not sure to work on the exhaust system first or engine upgrade. Could you recommend me the first 3 upgrade you would do to your engine, except K&N drop in, already got that in. Just wanna have an idea. It has just under 200,000 KM on it, so not sure want to rebuild the engine yet, although someone said my head gasket is almost gone. Thanks
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Old 09-02-2007, 02:14 AM   #4
 
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As far as first mods go wit these cars. Most people right off the bat go with larger exhaust ( in your case 2.5") high flow cat etc, Intercooler and g-valve. The intercooler will save your turbo at higher boost levels. I take it your 100% stock at the moment? If so slap an intercooler on and up your boost to around 12psi and you will be pleasently suprised lol
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Old 09-03-2007, 01:48 AM   #5
 
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Basicly, the mitsu turbo becomes a bigger restriction than our crappy 8v heads at anything much better than stock levels.

Adding larger exhaust to a car equiped with a mitsu turbo may or may not cause your car to "boost creep" which means the wastegate can't stop the turbo from building more boost, and after a second or two it'll be like hitting a brick wall when the computer cuts fuel. You *should* be ok with 2.5 inch exhaust but don't go any larger.

Producing much more than 13 psi boost on a mitsu turbo puts the turbo way out of its effective RPM, causing a good percentage of power gained by the extra boost to be negated by the skyrocketed charge air temperature. (This holds true even on an intercooled vehicle)


The mitsu is fine as long as its working, but if you ever find yourself needing to replace it (or in a position to easily replace it, such as an engine rebuild), just upgrade to the garrett, you'll love it


My first upgrade list includes 4 items, they go too much hand in hand to leave one out.

1: Instrumentation, properly working boost guage that doesnt max out at your desired boost level(not a stocker), a/f ratio and EGT preferably. Oil pressure doesnt hurt either, because sooner or later the sending unit for the stocker is gonna die and freak you out. All the go fast in the world doesnt amount to anything if you smoke your engine.

2: Intercooler, stock system works pretty darn good and is easy to do. Try for an Indy or Super 60 type, they fit in the stock location but work a little better. An intercooler is more likely to save you from a broken/melted piston than any turbo trouble. Be sure to buy the loudest f'in BOV you can afford, and laugh when people try to figure out where the heck that noise is coming from .

3: G-valve or some form of boost control. The ECU limits boost down low to "save" your transmission. This really wakes up a garrett equiped vehicle, and wont break your tranny unless its already on its way there.

4: Exhaust, the more you open it up (keeping in mind what I said above), the faster your turbo will spool.

Of course, don't even bother to upgrade anything if the car needs brake or suspension work. You'd be suprised how many SRT-4s I see rolling around with everything we offer out of the Mopar Performance book, with the brake warning sensors howling.

Nice body work, its a far cry from the way it was in the first page

Donovan's Dodge Garage has a wealth of information on these cars and performance upgrades.
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Old 09-03-2007, 05:39 PM   #6
 
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My van is pretty much stock. I swapped my mitsu out for a garrett and with the same psi the garrett made a LOT more power. You would see why they prefer them over mitsu turbos. The Mitsu will make some decent power for a little fun. I had to put my mitsu back on due to a bad oil seal on the garrett. I plan on getting it rebuilt...
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Old 09-04-2007, 07:25 AM   #7
 
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if you think your slow ass car is fast with a mitsu then keep it. these things don't wake up until 18+ # and don't get somewhat fast until you are pushing more than 25# on a t2, and then they are still slow.
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Old 09-04-2007, 03:28 PM   #8
 
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"Be sure to buy the loudest f'in BOV you can afford, and laugh when people try to figure out where the heck that noise is coming from"

The stock BOV is plenty loud belive me lol. You should see the looks on peoples faces when they find out the noise is coming from my baron.
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Old 09-04-2007, 03:29 PM   #9
 
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if you think your slow ass car is fast with a mitsu then keep it. these things don't wake up until 18+ # and don't get somewhat fast until you are pushing more than 25# on a t2, and then they are still slow.
Party pooper.
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Old 09-04-2007, 04:11 PM   #10
 
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get an RFL BOV. I rode in a tona shelby with one of those and every shift was this loud as hell PSSSSSSSHHHHHHH. like your just shifting out of first adfter taking off easy and its still loud as hell

oh and garret FTW, plus if you got a 2.5 and add a garret it will spool alot faster than a stock car that came with a garret casue garrets only came on 2.2's
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Old 09-06-2007, 07:31 AM   #11
 
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Party pooper.
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Old 09-06-2007, 02:18 PM   #12
 
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Thanks a lot guys for all the infos. Actually the brake is fine but i do have a suspension problem, when i go to a small bump, the car shakes badly. I heard that 3" will damage the turbo so 2.5" is good as you mentioned. The problem is cant find a good direct bolt in I/C in here with all the pipes and stuff. Probably have to buy it either from here or ebay. Thanks
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Old 09-06-2007, 03:47 PM   #13
 
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It should be easy to find a TII rad/IC. There for sale on here all the time im pretty sure clay(moparfwdsleeper) has one for sale at the moment with piping
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Old 09-06-2007, 11:25 PM   #14
 
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comparing a stock log intake 2.2 garret car with
a
stock one piece intake 2.5 mitsu car


is a pretty stupid comparison. Totally different setups and engines.
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Old 09-07-2007, 01:06 AM   #15
 
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YUP!

ok, **** the mitsu and 2.5in, get a garret and 3in. There, I said it. Your car is heavy and the mitsu spools fast but makes nothing. Like I said before, your car will still be slow at 18#, which is more than you can handle now. And at 18#, you'll probably think it is stupid fast. So put the t2 and 3in on there and beat the crap out of your car until you are convinced it is slow, because at first to someone with no experience it will probably feel fast, but it isn't, and when you realize this and hopefully have developed the skill to back it up you will be ready to shell out the bucks for a real turbo and hopefully you'll be ready to go through the motor, put in some forged pistons, and make her run like she really should, which is without a midget turd of a turbo that can't push any air and should only be used on motorcyles.
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