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Carburetted and TBI Injected Feel free to discuss any subject that is specific to these cars, including but not limited to: modification, tuning, repair, parts replacement, identification and restoration. This is the place to talk about ALL-MOTOR performance and MPI conversions.

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Old 01-14-2006, 11:35 PM   #46
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big_P
slantsixdan, that don't make the vehicle interference would it?
Nope...plenty of running clearance even on a relatively high compression naturally-aspirated 2.5.

Quote:
Last thing I'd ever want is a piston hitting the spark plug. They're very close to start off with. I know this because I toasted a bearing in my turbovan, and it sent piston 1 right into the spark plug.
Well, OK, but if ya toast a bearing and send the piston rocketing upward, it's gonna hit something and you're gonna replace stuff! I don't worry about the extremely unlikely.
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Old 01-15-2006, 09:29 AM   #47
 
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I'm just saying, the bearing added maybe 1/4" to the piston stroke and it came up and mashed the plug, so if the plug is much longer than that I'd be skeptical.
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Old 01-24-2006, 01:07 AM   #48
2.2,2.5 tbi or turbo  
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2.2's and 2.5's run so nicely that even up here with aircare there's lots you can get away with. For starters if they blow thourgh no problem, try putting on an empty cat. You just need it there for inspection. Advance the timing to about 14d btd and they love 2.5" exuast. I did it to my 89 horizon I had 4 years ago and had no problems. Also try getting an injector from a bigger vehical with the same motor. Eg. with my horizon I was told to use an injector from a 600 or a minivan, because they would allow more fuel then the stock horizon one. I know that its not a basic bolt on, but roller rockers if you don't have are good too.
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Old 02-08-2006, 07:03 PM   #49
 
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Are there flow differences between the years of TBI injectors? I mean, I assume there'll be a difference between a 2.2 and 2.5, but still...

I was thinking of swiping the stock exhaust off a turbo Daytona I saw at the boneyard -- should be able to get it for beans and it should be a nice upgrade with a new muffler and deleted cat. What say you, gurus?
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Old 05-08-2006, 04:40 PM   #50
 
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My .02 cents here . . . I've done tinkered back in the day with an ol 83 Shelby Charger. Best bang for the buck was dual 40mm Weber carbs. Bought them from Ed Peters from some of the old Direct Connection stuff. I played with carb spacer and non-feedback carb on the stock intake manifold . . . helped a bit, but best increase was the Webers. I had a Lunati camshaft and Hooker header on the old beast at one point. Angelo Taylor bought the carbs off me and I think it gained him at least 3/4 of a second improvement over stock -- but I think he said the consistency went away (big problem for bracket racing).

Hope this helps!
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Old 05-11-2006, 05:22 PM   #51
 
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My DD is an '89 Daytona 2.5 TBI automatic running '94 electronics (SBEC) and associated parts - TB and fuel pump due to higher pressure. I have been trying different mods to try and get the best mileage while maintaining as much performance as possible. The best bang for my buck ( happened to be free) was putting the exhaust system from my turbo car on the TBI car. The turbo car is getting a full 3" from FWD perf. so the old one was donated to the TBI car. The system is 2.5 through the S bend and then 2.25 for the rest. It has a 2.5" hi-flow cat and MP baffled muffler. All that I had to do was to cut the donut flanges off of the original pipes and swap them along with the bolt flanges and weld it to the new pipe. Sounds good and both MPG and perf went up!

BTW, I removed my balance shafts and was back on the road in 2 hours. I don't find the task and more/less difficult than swapping an exhaust system and should be considered as "bolt-on" - or is it "bolt-off" ?
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Old 05-15-2006, 07:48 PM   #52
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slantsixdan
Good, cheap, basic mod: NGK ZFR5N (or Autolite 985, if you must) spark plugs, extended-nose design as used in many late-model Mopars, everything from LH V6s through to 4-litre Jeeps. This spark plug was designed to move the spark point closer to the centre of the combustion chamber and away from quench surfaces. It won't turn your TBI car into a racer, but pays noticeable dividends in everyday driveability, emissions and mileage (surprise...that's why they made the plugs this way!) I get the ZFR5Ns at RockAuto for about $2/ea.

Bosch platinums? Never, ever again.

I tried these and initial results are awesome. I put them in on a full tank so mileage stats will follow in a week or so. Seat of the pants is a definate + . They are scary looking being sooo long but absolutely nothing negative to report. I'm going to try them in my turbo car too.
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Old 06-22-2006, 10:55 AM   #53
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slantsixdan
Good, cheap, basic mod: NGK ZFR5N (or Autolite 985, if you must) spark plugs, extended-nose design as used in many late-model Mopars, everything from LH V6s through to 4-litre Jeeps. This spark plug was designed to move the spark point closer to the centre of the combustion chamber and away from quench surfaces. It won't turn your TBI car into a racer, but pays noticeable dividends in everyday driveability, emissions and mileage (surprise...that's why they made the plugs this way!) I get the ZFR5Ns at RockAuto for about $2/ea.

Bosch platinums? Never, ever again.
I just ordered a set through rockauto but will these be ok on an 83 carbed 2.2? They do look pretty long.
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Old 06-22-2006, 02:12 PM   #54
 
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Ok, now I am amazed!
The plugs made a 1000% difference! I always had a little sputter at idle and poor cold driveability and even warm wasn't anything to write home about but it's all gone now. I did change out my cap and rotor to the blue streak and took out the new borg warner crap from Pepboys too but I think it was all the plugs. The cap, rotor and plugs were all new before I did this.
Thanks SlantSixDan!!! I'm not in any hurry to put the 5220 carb on now.


Last edited by Rosco : 06-22-2006 at 02:22 PM.
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Old 07-22-2006, 11:49 AM   #55
 
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For the 3.0:

Nick Boers pully is a must.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!DRAG RADIALS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!

Dr's took a half second of my 1/4 time with a slightly modded 3.0
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Old 08-06-2006, 12:53 AM   #56
 
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what about upgrading the metal fans to the s blade fans off of the v6 cars? better cooling more ponies. how about aluminum radiator, to increase cooling effeciency. also you could use CryO2 cryogenic fuel bar and cryogenic air intake to get a colder and denser charge of fuel and air. here is their site http://www.designengineering.com/products.asp.
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Old 10-10-2006, 10:41 AM   #57
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BradleyMiller
My .02 cents here . . . I've done tinkered back in the day with an ol 83 Shelby Charger. Best bang for the buck was dual 40mm Weber carbs. Bought them from Ed Peters from some of the old Direct Connection stuff. I played with carb spacer and non-feedback carb on the stock intake manifold . . . helped a bit, but best increase was the Webers. Angelo Taylor bought the carbs off me and I think it gained him at least 3/4 of a second improvement over stock -- but I think he said the consistency went away (big problem for bracket racing).

Hope this helps!
Amen.
Once you place these on you realize just how restrictive
2bbl thing or the TBI was, theres nothing to work w/.



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Old 12-15-2006, 11:39 PM   #58
 
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Originally Posted by UptownSport
Amen.
Once you place these on you realize just how restrictive
2bbl thing or the TBI was, theres nothing to work w/.



how do you change from tbi to that set up you have there?
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Old 12-19-2006, 08:09 PM   #59
 
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I thought you was talking about weber 32/36. Helps too if even one had holley junk 5220 on your 2.2/2.5?

Got the NGK ZFR5N. Man that's very DEEP reach! . Tulip will get these when I get around to that especially when I get the zerostart tank heater installed.

Cheers, Wizard
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Old 01-10-2007, 08:34 AM   #60
 
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UPTOWNSPORT do you want to make me one of those manifolds?
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