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Carburetted and TBI Injected Feel free to discuss any subject that is specific to these cars, including but not limited to: modification, tuning, repair, parts replacement, identification and restoration. This is the place to talk about ALL-MOTOR performance and MPI conversions.

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Old 10-07-2009, 12:13 AM   #76
re: 2.2, 2.5 FAQ TBI Build Up Thread  
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I currently have a 90 Omni 5-speed 2.2L TBI that I just bought. I've been looking for a good header for it with no success but was wondering what some other cheap easy mods would be? How would you set up a cai on it?
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Old 10-07-2009, 04:59 AM   #77
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redline,

if you want to modify stock ignition on your 2.2l engine, especially if you are having wiring/electronics problems, you can replace stock electronic distributor and associated circuitry with the $60 dollar VW/Bosch 009 points-type distributor by making minor modifications. I have documented this in the Engine Management, Fuel, Spark, EGTs, and Air/Fuel Ratios forum:
Engine Management, Fuel, Spark, EGTs, and Air/Fuel Ratios - TurboDodge.Com - Turbo Dodge forum for Turbo Mopars, Shelbys, Daytona, SRT-4, PT Cruiser, Omni and more!
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Old 05-19-2010, 08:18 PM   #78
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Originally Posted by redline0889 View Post
I currently have a 90 Omni 5-speed 2.2L TBI that I just bought. I've been looking for a good header for it with no success but was wondering what some other cheap easy mods would be? How would you set up a cai on it?
Easy = not cheap on the exaust side. Or you can port and weld up a larger mouth and utilize the 2.5" cat back kits from our vendors..
CAI is easy, there are some posts and pics in here if you look.
Best luck
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Old 05-12-2011, 08:39 PM   #79
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i wouldn't mess with anything that sacrifices low end performance (i'll buy a honda when i want a honda thank you). headers fit lousy and rust out quck. the stock tbi manifold flows better than the turbo exhaust manifold. you don't want to get bigger than 2" diameter exhaust without forced induction on a 2.2/2.5 or you will hurt throttle response and low end. change out the converter and muffler for higher flow units.

unless you are building a hi-po n/a engine for a special racing class, you might as well go with a turbo-intercooled setup instead. the practicality of an n/a motor in stock trim is it runs fine on 87 octane and anything with serious power will require premium. best way to get more air into the engine is convert it mpi for an extra 10hp and better high rpm breathing (more than enough for a naturally aspirated 8 valve).

if you have a 2.2, switch to a 2.5....more power for the same gas mileage. and the advantage is a 2.5 can turn a softer gear for better highway driving thanks to more torque.

got an auto?, get a stick. quicker acceleration AND better highway than a 3 speed slushbox will give you. better gas mileage also thanks to an overdrive.

my 86 aries wagon will eventually be 2.5T2 powered but for now I will probably just throw in the 2.5/3spd from my 91 dynasty. planning to use it to tow a couple cycles to bike week in daytona next spring and a 3000 mile round trip on unleaded regular is going to be expensive enough. i think i will wire in my 90/91 sbec harness so i can run mpi with a mexican cal. i will also have a lockup converter thanks to the newer trans and wiring.

was thinking a 2.60 final drive (10% less rpm cruising) with a 3000 stall turbo lockup converter (more torque multiplication) might work. but will probably just keep the 3.02 gears for better towing on hills. the tbi 2500 stall converter might not maximize power but it is a little more drivable and would save some money as most of my budget in the next few months is going into bodywork.
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Old 01-16-2012, 06:31 PM   #80
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im raising the c/r on a 287 "G" head. i believe shaving .030 off the head raises the c/r up one point? is there anyone that can confirm this before i mess things up lol
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Old 01-16-2012, 10:47 PM   #81
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it also screws up your cam timing because your SOHC. The stock GLH and SC with HO engines had a custom pulley to advance the came timing after the belt change. There has also been belts with less teeth and larger adjustment pulleys over time for this. Today? Don't do it, change the pistons
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:37 PM   #82
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i have an adjustable cam sprocket to reset the timing, and i dont have the money nor the room to really be changing the pistons
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Old 01-09-2013, 05:30 PM   #83
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Hello, I'm newbie who just bought a beloved 88 dodge aries 5 speed. I want to restore it and hop it up a little. I find this site and the threads very helpful. But my question is, where do I find these hop up parts?? Thanks!
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:53 AM   #84
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Hello, I'm newbie who just bought a beloved 88 dodge aries 5 speed. I want to restore it and hop it up a little. I find this site and the threads very helpful. But my question is, where do I find these hop up parts?? Thanks!
Welcome to Turbododge.com!

There are parts in the for sale section and it also has to do with your plans. Going to go turbo? Going to hop up the TBI?

Would love interior photos of the 5 speed Aries BTW, whole car for that matter. Pretty rare to hear of a 88 5 speed
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:19 AM   #85
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Thanks Pope! Will post some pictures. Needs resto on the fenders but interior is nice and all original. Runs pretty well, too. Very fun to drive, and goes where I point it. I would like to do turbo, but if I can't get a lebaron turbo engine to drop in, I don't mind hopping up the tbi, the cam and ignition, and putting a straight pipe on. I am looking for at least 120 horse. Never hopped up a car before. Luckily, I have family members that are master mechanics that can help.
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Old 05-03-2014, 06:26 PM   #86
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A cheap and simple performance increasing process is to, as points made by "ngangt17" "jverrill" suggest that milling your head .005" retards your cam by 1 degree, so milling your head .030" retards your cam 6 degrees. With a head milled .030" you have 6 degrees of cam retard, so advancing your cam 1 tooth (advancing the cam 9 degrees) results in a CAM ADVANCE of 3 degrees; head mill of .025" with 1 tooth cam advance results in 4 degrees of cam advance.

The NA 2.5 TBI, with .025" and .030" with 1 tooth of cam advance is a very nice and noticeable change, especially since it is accompanying the increase in compression ratio offered by the mill.

If practical while having machine work performed on the 782 series head, incorporate a scenario specific multi-angle valve job and if possible a professional port/polish to the head flow matched to port/polished intake and exhaust manifolds.

If the budget permits, get a custom ground roller cam for maximum torque. That is how the 2.5 liter TBI should have been sold!!!

To clarify the CHEAP AND EASY, if you are having head work performed, the .020" to .030" mill with 1 tooth of CAM advance will yield a respectable increase in performance. Even if it is just a simple head gasket change, if the budget permits shave off .025" and enjoy the 4 degrees of cam advance for... FREE.

Last edited by pSUN; 05-03-2014 at 06:32 PM.. Reason: performance error noted
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