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Carburetted and TBI Injected Feel free to discuss any subject that is specific to these cars, including but not limited to: modification, tuning, repair, parts replacement, identification and restoration. This is the place to talk about ALL-MOTOR performance and MPI conversions.

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Old 10-10-2005, 08:07 PM   #1
2.2, 2.5 FAQ TBI Build Up Thread  
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I need basic hop up stuff for the N/A engines above, proven stuff that works, not wives tails. Thanks!

For 2.2's and 2.5's I remember the spacer trick on TBI's
Header if possible
Better plug wires-aka Aurora, MSD, Magnacore.
Minor port job, 3-5 angle valve job, backcut valves,
Raise comp by milling head slightly.

Last edited by turbovanman; 10-10-2005 at 08:38 PM..
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Old 10-10-2005, 08:10 PM   #2
 
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badassperformance is making this site a better placebadassperformance is making this site a better placebadassperformance is making this site a better placebadassperformance is making this site a better place
That's a novel idea on turbododge.com ... lol...

Stage 1: decide whether to blow it or spray it or both.
Stage 2: blow it or spray it or both.

j/k, good idea!

Last edited by turbovanman; 10-10-2005 at 08:19 PM.. Reason: Hit the wrong dang button again!
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Old 10-10-2005, 08:19 PM   #3
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAssPerformance
That's a novel idea on turbododge.com ... lol...

Stage 1: decide whether to blow it or spray it or both.
Stage 2: blow it or spray it or both.

j/k, good idea!
Haahhahaha, funny guy. Thanks I think,
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Old 10-10-2005, 08:33 PM   #4
 
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1) Cold Air Itake with open cell foam or cotton style air filter
1a) Ram air intake setup

2) 180* TStat

3) Larger Throttle body, 3.0L only (52mm works great, since that's what the plenum is opened up for)

4) Run higher base ignition timing (premium fuel required)
Mine was set to 16* BTDC. I saw better low end grunt. But lost some upper end power.

5) Port/Polish intake
5a) Remove the center runner within plenum (noticed slight bottom end loss, with awesome top end gains)

6) 2.5" exhaust system with high flow muffler for the 3.0L
6a) 2.25" exhaust system with high flow muffler for 2.2/2.5L

7) Better ignition coil (relocated for shortening primary coil wire)
I've used Accel and MSD coils with decent results. But love the ford coils.

8) ***ADJUSTABLE FUEL PRESSURE REGLATOR***




I'm sure I'll think of more motor related items in a bit. But I think I got most of my basic mods that's running on my 3.0L Lebaron. I threw in a few mods I remembered from when I had my 89 Daytona ES 2.5L TBI as well.


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Old 10-10-2005, 08:47 PM   #5
 
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Add:

8.8mm wires
NGK V-power plugs
Conrad or Micro-tech cap/rotor set (brass terninals)
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Old 10-10-2005, 08:51 PM   #6
 
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Carbureted 2.2L
1. either shave head or deck block .040 (that's what Ma Mopar did for the HO, decked the block)
2. Weber or Holley non-feedback carb. (Pinto 2300 carbs are pretty big)
3. Header
4. different ignition, get away from spark computer. Either hybrid 1980 1.7L and early 2.2L distributor (see thread on this) or modify head and cam for carbureted Escort distributor on end of head.
5. One tooth shorter timing belt to restore cam timing after #1.
6. Aftermarket cam
7. Instead of #5, adjustable cam timing sprocket.
8. Cold air intake, if on an L body 2dr., close in bottom behind bumper, above radiator and use stock location.
9. If you really want to get froggy, get a pair of Weber DCOE carbs (probably 40's but 45's are easier to get parts for.
10. Really raise the compression, say about 12.5:1.
11. Aluminum flywheel.
Most of these are what we do to our SCCA ITB cars (not all are legal).
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1986 Turismo 2.2 (race car)
1986 LeBaron convertible 2.2L TBI (being set up as replacement)
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1989 J body convertible 2.5L TurboI (wrecked in front, granddaughter's car)
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Old 10-10-2005, 09:10 PM   #7
 
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2.2 NA carburated.
use 1986-1988 2.5 block,
install billet mains caps and crank
use Crower 6.5" rods.
custom make Ross forged pistons
custom oversized valves
5 axis cnc G casting head
use Isky .579 cam
solid adjusters
Holley programable ignition system w/crank fire sensor
Holly 4412 500 cfm carb,
figure compresson 15:1
put into omni and blast 12.0's all day
even thru a junky 525 trans w/ welded diff.
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Old 10-10-2005, 09:42 PM   #8
 
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WOW. I thought we were supposed to list the Basic hop-up stuff. If we get into the custom pistons, then it's all game on with the rest of the motor.

Lightened crank with knife edge counterbalances
Crank scrapers
Crankcase evac setup with low tension piston rings
Underdrive pulley
convert to manual rack-n-pinion to remove the power steering pump
Aluminum alternator pulley
Remove A/C
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Old 10-10-2005, 10:31 PM   #9
 
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Guys, stick to basic bolts ons.
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Old 10-11-2005, 02:14 AM   #10
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for the 3.0L... some extremely speculative info...

I have been thinking a lot lately... and doing some researching...

The stock from the factory 6g72 12v SOHC engine puts out a whopping 142hp at the crank...

The 10:1 mitsu version puts out 164 hp... so that leads me to believe that 10:1 pistons are worth about 20hp (same engine, same year, only diff is pistons... both are 12v)

The montero came with 24v heads... i'm not entirely sure how the water jackets are set up... but the montero put out 177 hp (if someone knows, please pm me) thats 35 hp over the 12v... oh, and thats with 9:1 compression, vs. the 8.89:1 compression of the chrysler version...

the new eclipse 3.0L 24v puts out 205 hp with 9:1 compression...

again, this is all speculative... but i would estimate 200 hp with just heads (if they fit) and 10:1 pistons... this is all n/a... then add all the above stuff, i'm seeing 225 hp from bolt-ons, heads, and high comp pistons... thats comparable to the dohc n/a...

still not enough? open up those heads and do a few more minor modifications... i figure around 240 hp n/a... if not more... fabricate a set of headers, you're sitting at 255 hp or so...

STILL not enough? yank those high comp. pistons, slap in some 8.0:1 comp pistons, replace those headers with a turbo manifold, and i could easily see 325 hp... comparable with the dohc-tt... and a similar setup, actually...

again... this is all speculative...

and i did a little bit of looking (head gasket comparing) and it looks like the water jackets between the 12v and 24v sohc are slightly different, but not majorly... i think the bigger hurdle would be having them mount up and run the belt correctly... with all this stuff, you now have an interference engine...

i plan on going tomorrow to see if the local u-pull-it has any 24v montero heads

if nothing else, i can clean them up and sell them on ebay or something...
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Old 10-11-2005, 07:35 AM   #11
 
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y did u delete my post, everything was a bolt on, bolt on billet crank, crower rods, bolt on a mod head, what gives.
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Old 10-11-2005, 10:27 AM   #12
 
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yes, the biggest problem with the DOHC motor setups is that they sit the opposite way as the chrysler 3.0L SOHC setups. I have seeen 1 daytona tho, with a stealth TT DOHC motor in it .
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Old 10-11-2005, 12:24 PM   #13
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allmotor
y did u delete my post, everything was a bolt on, bolt on billet crank, crower rods, bolt on a mod head, what gives.
Read what I wrote, BASIC bolts ons, not internal high dollar mods, sheesh.

I don't call stroker cranks and billet rods etc basic bolt ons, do you?

Good info on the 24 valves but read my post

BASIC

Bolts ons, argggggggg!
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Old 10-11-2005, 03:22 PM   #14
 
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sure seems basic bolt on to me. OK so lets bolt on some bling 20's, neons, a HUGE wing on the back, a gigawatt amp, split fires because they claim to make more power goodness knows if it's advertised it must be true. add slick 50 to the oil or duralube, and you fosho will have more power.

realisitic bolt on, when you replace the head gaskets whack .040 off your head, this will definitely give more power. how about advancing the base timing to 16 or even better, adjust until you have 38 at 4000 rpm (full ecm advance), maybe advance cam timing a couple degrees. free up exhaust and intake air flow,
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Old 10-11-2005, 03:36 PM   #15
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbovanman
Read what I wrote, BASIC bolts ons, not internal high dollar mods, sheesh.

I don't call stroker cranks and billet rods etc basic bolt ons, do you?

Good info on the 24 valves but read my post

BASIC

Bolts ons, argggggggg!

argggggggg.... couldn't you have atleast branched it out? i should have started a new topic with it all and that was a lot of typing :(
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