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Carburetted and TBI Injected Feel free to discuss any subject that is specific to these cars, including but not limited to: modification, tuning, repair, parts replacement, identification and restoration. This is the place to talk about ALL-MOTOR performance and MPI conversions.

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Old 11-18-2005, 10:46 AM   #1
I think my nuts are loose(fuel mileage q)  
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I am sick of searching and not coming up with anything.
My car gets 200KM/ tank! I refuse to believe that this thing is running properly

Its an 88 daytona 2.5 tbi auto etc

Full tune up, new gas tank, fuel filter, 15 d timing

Only things i havnt changed are the oxygen sensor (yet).

But i also keep hearing about loose nuts behind the wheel? could anyone expand on that for me?

Or Grounding issues? whats that about?

Please help me, i would like to get her running properly!


thanks
brandon
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Old 11-18-2005, 07:20 PM   #2
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolerr
I am sick of searching and not coming up with anything.
My car gets 200KM/ tank! I refuse to believe that this thing is running properly

Its an 88 daytona 2.5 tbi auto etc

Full tune up, new gas tank, fuel filter, 15 d timing

Only things i havnt changed are the oxygen sensor (yet).

But i also keep hearing about loose nuts behind the wheel? could anyone expand on that for me?

Or Grounding issues? whats that about?

Please help me, i would like to get her running properly!


thanks
brandon


Lose wheelbearing nut?? Try changeing your 02 sensor, see what that does for ya.
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Old 11-18-2005, 07:29 PM   #3
 
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I guess the MAP sensor could be bad as well right?
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Old 11-18-2005, 08:13 PM   #4
 
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the map could be bad but i thikn it would run super rich and you could tell.
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Old 11-18-2005, 08:57 PM   #5
 
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could be bad map, bad SBEC, bad, O2, bad tps, bad injector, bad ect, bad air filter, bad car, bad advice, bad driver, bad gas, bad knooter valve, bad mojo, bad karma, bad air, bad finger, bad habbits, bad foot, bad tires, bad transmission, bad engine, bad rings, bad brakes, bad weather... so how about changing all the stuff I listed and hope that fixes your problems.

see, when you have a problem with your car, sooooo many people say "could be...." then the next sentence is " you should get a new....." so my advice is check your oxygen sensor with an Oscilliscope and see if you voltage changes rapidly from .01v-.99v. or put you car on an actual scanner to see what the SBEC sees for true O2 voltage reading, before you throw a $50+ part at the car "hoping to fix the problem"

I also feel you need to investigate other non engine systems to your problem.. like do you treat your gas pedal as an on-off switch? are you sure you don't have a brake draging? etc. etc. etc.
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Old 11-19-2005, 12:02 AM   #6
 
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The brakes do not drag(lifted it and checked), i try to drive very evenly and my car throws no codes. Its got 115 000 kms on it and i keep the tires at 40 psi.

the car just got a tune up so its driving me insane. everything i can thnk of has been checked ecetp the sensors you mentioneed but they shoudl through a code if a problem exists!

hmmm?
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Old 11-19-2005, 04:14 AM   #7
 
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Uh NO, I had an oxygen sensor that was bad but did not set a code. 40 psi WAY to high for safe driving and tire life. but not your gas kilometerage issue. did you verify the odometer to be accurate? you could have a bad one of them also. I forgot about that BAD possible part so you should replace that one also. in addition when timing was set, was it done correctly could have been a BAD job there. maybe you just have a BAD car, you could replace that also.

to check for brake drag, you cant do it with a cold car but just turning the wheels. I have a truck right now that would pass that test but when they are used and get hot, one brake drags due to a bad flex hose... I'm just to lazy to fix it and I cant get someone on the internet to magically fix it for me.
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Old 11-19-2005, 07:28 AM   #8
 
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I to had a bad O2 that didn't set a code the van ran good just got bad fuel economy. The live data on the scanner even looked good. Finally it set a code after 2 years. Is your the original O2 sensor? Do you have an owners manual? If so see what millage they recomend replacing it.
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Old 11-22-2005, 10:06 AM   #9
 
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I replaced my o2 sensor, the strange thing is that even with it unplugged driving aorund all day it still did not throw a code and got the exact same mileage... I figured unplugged it would throw a code?


i dunno anymore, 40 psi is ok in the tires, i drive very lightly and i still get horrible fuel mileage (320 km a tank) i should be getting 400-450

allmotor, please stop the BAD posts they arnt really helping

thanks
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Old 12-09-2005, 02:38 PM   #10
 
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I'll bet it's the fuel injector (leaking). I do a mix of 66/33 city highway and i get 360kms in summer and 305 in winter. If i do 33/66 and get 440 kms. Those 2.2/2.5N/A and the 3speed suck gas like most modern 3.0l V6 motors. Swap in a 5 speed and you'll get an extra 4 MPG.
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Old 12-09-2005, 06:49 PM   #11
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allmotor
Uh NO, I had an oxygen sensor that was bad but did not set a code. 40 psi WAY to high for safe driving and tire life. but not your gas kilometerage issue. did you verify the odometer to be accurate? you could have a bad one of them also. I forgot about that BAD possible part so you should replace that one also. in addition when timing was set, was it done correctly could have been a BAD job there. maybe you just have a BAD car, you could replace that also.

to check for brake drag, you cant do it with a cold car but just turning the wheels. I have a truck right now that would pass that test but when they are used and get hot, one brake drags due to a bad flex hose... I'm just to lazy to fix it and I cant get someone on the internet to magically fix it for me.
Jeeze, someone is having a BAD day!!
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Old 12-09-2005, 08:42 PM   #12
 
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My daytona is a 2.5 tbi/auto. In the winter my navigator usually says 32-35mpg on the highway, in summer it's like 35-38. Depending on conditions of course. My daytona has 116,000kms on it. Maybe you should throw on of these units in, it'll help give you a better idea of what's wrong. If it reads as much higher mpg than you're getting, than that could point to a leaky injector. Have you tried taking the car into a (trustworthy) shop to see what they say?
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