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12-09-2005, 04:49 PM
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#46
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.700
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Just dont push the clutch in when the cruise is on or you will hit the limiter pretty fast.
Whats a clutch safety switch????
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12-09-2005, 06:16 PM
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#47
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
My Ride: 1989 Turbo Caravan
Engine: 2.5L 8V Sohc
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.400
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by Ondonti
Just dont push the clutch in when the cruise is on or you will hit the limiter pretty fast.
Whats a clutch safety switch????
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Hahhaaa, do tell. Going to Sun Peaks, GF was busy, knocked the shifter into neutral in my Jimmy doing 120 km/h, pinned redline for a few secs until I figured out what happened,
Are you kidding about the switch or asking what it does?
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12-11-2005, 08:12 PM
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#49
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Windsor, Ont.
My Ride: 87 Shelby Charger
Engine: 2.2L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.260
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by big_P
On my LeBaron, the engine would notice if I shifted the trans into neutral and it would cut the cruise control. Strange your cars dont?
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my 93 3.0L duster was the same....
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12-12-2005, 07:25 PM
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#52
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Bremerton, WA
My Ride: Horizon GLH-T
Engine: 2.5L Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.900
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I've run factory cruise on an auto-converted to stick car.. Not a big issue. Just don't press the clutch in without tapping the brake pedal first. The RPM's go up really slowly usually anyways.
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12-13-2005, 03:52 AM
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#53
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.700
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by Una
I've run factory cruise on an auto-converted to stick car.. Not a big issue. Just don't press the clutch in without tapping the brake pedal first. The RPM's go up really slowly usually anyways.
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This is what Im refering too. My car has a fidanza and aluminum pulley so that helps her rev up where she should not be.
Since my car is auto converted, it has no idea when I put the clutch in.
I have a switch wired into the car (not right now.......) to pretend it is a clutch safety switch so I can push the botton and then my cruise will work.
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09-14-2006, 01:30 PM
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#55
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2005
1/4: 0.000
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wow this thread died...... but progress has been slow i have everything to convert the car but i still cant find a stupid omni anywhere....... i got the 3.0 motor thats been rebuilt, 543 with a new stock clutch, rear disk brakes, prop valve, 7/8's master cylinder, front glht hubs and brakes, 88 mini wiring harness, shelby charger springs shocks, and some crab wheels, 52 mm throttle body and later style intake.......but i still cant find the car anywhere! this sucks...
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09-20-2006, 04:23 PM
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#58
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Toronto, ON, CA
My Ride: 92 IROC R/T
Engine: 135 ci
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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re: cruise control
I read in the FSM sometime that the computer just watches for sudden increases in RPM and will cut the cruise if it sees it. They used to have a clutch switch, but did away with it for this 'RPM-watching' logic. Makes perfect sense to me:
1) save $2.00/unit on eliminating clutch switch and wire
2) one less part to break and diagnose
3) reusable code for both auto and 5spd cars - you can still bang the shifter into neutral on an auto!
A 90 Omni with cruise, and a 91 SBEC from a shadow with cruise should work ok, just some pin swapping at the bulkhead connector.
re: rad fan
Yep, it's a tighter engine bay. An Eagle Premiere fan is nice and flat, and fits a TII rad nicely. You may also think about going aftermarket, with a push-through fan to give you some needed clearance.
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