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01-22-2006, 01:39 AM
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#2
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Bremerton, WA
My Ride: Horizon GLH-T
Engine: 2.5L Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.900
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I'd megasquirt it with a 2 piece intake from a turbo car if it were me.. Along with a set of headers.
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01-22-2006, 03:59 PM
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#3
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Steinbach, Manitoba, Canada
My Ride: 1983 Dodge Aries
Engine: stock 2.2L
1/4: 0.000
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To rid yourself of the computer you need a non-feedback carb. Weber 32/36 for daily driver, 38/38 for racing. You also need to get a mechanical advance distributor and make it fit by doing some machining. I'm just doing this on my car and am ordering an .009 VW distributor. I came across a link that shows how to mod this distributor to work. http://www.geocities.com/ngant17/VW_distrib_mod.html
Hope that helps.
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01-22-2006, 05:10 PM
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#4
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Bremerton, WA
My Ride: Horizon GLH-T
Engine: 2.5L Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.900
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When they say to use a 1.7L VW distributor, they meant WATERCOOLED 1.7L.. Not the old aircooled.. But hey, if you make it work, cool.
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01-22-2006, 05:43 PM
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#5
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
My Ride: 1989 Turbo Caravan
Engine: 2.5L 8V Sohc
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.400
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by Una
When they say to use a 1.7L VW distributor, they meant WATERCOOLED 1.7L.. Not the old aircooled.. But hey, if you make it work, cool. 
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I don't know what article you read but the link he gives us says AIRCOOLED.
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01-22-2006, 06:02 PM
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#6
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Bremerton, WA
My Ride: Horizon GLH-T
Engine: 2.5L Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.900
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Ahh.. Weird.. Definitely an improved article over the one I read a couple years ago. My bad.
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01-22-2006, 06:08 PM
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#7
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
My Ride: 1989 Turbo Caravan
Engine: 2.5L 8V Sohc
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.400
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by Una
Ahh.. Weird.. Definitely an improved article over the one I read a couple years ago. My bad.
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Hahhaa, no biggie. You made me read it a few times to make sure I wasn't crazy,
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01-22-2006, 06:39 PM
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#8
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Bremerton, WA
My Ride: Horizon GLH-T
Engine: 2.5L Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.900
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Guess what threw me was that VW never went over 1.6L aircooled in the beetle.. Never really thought about the TIV/Porsche 1.7L engine.. The watercooled 1.7L on the otherhand was used for years, including in our Omni's originally, so that's why I just assumed watercooled.. That and the old article about using that distributor was VERY unclear. This article is far improved. Actually seems pretty easy now.
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01-22-2006, 11:17 PM
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#9
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Maine
My Ride: Shelby Daytona
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Thats what i thought too was the old vw motors in the omnis/024's
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01-23-2006, 03:21 AM
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#10
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Steinbach, Manitoba, Canada
My Ride: 1983 Dodge Aries
Engine: stock 2.2L
1/4: 0.000
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My bad for not stating clearly exactly what the distributor was out of. My brother is a VW nut and I'm used to talking straight part numbers and that with him. People into VW's will know that an .009 distributor is an aftermarket distributor made by Bosch for VW. That distributor is readily available for under $100. It has a max advance of about 21-22 degrees. A better choice is the discountinued .050 distributor. It has 28 degrees of advance. It can still be bought at www.aircooled.net but I don't know for how long. It was $149 last time I checked.
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01-23-2006, 01:02 PM
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#11
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
My Ride: 1989 Turbo Caravan
Engine: 2.5L 8V Sohc
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.400
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My brother is heavily into Aircooled so I know 009 is an after dist for the VW's.  I doubt those dist will ever cease to be made, if you check out the Vdub mags, thats all they sell plus we have 2 VW speed shops around that have tons in stock.
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01-23-2006, 01:21 PM
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#12
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Whitmore Lake, Michigan
My Ride: Titan & '89 C/S AGS
Engine: 2.5L T1
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.873
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by turbostocker
I am building a 87 turbo lebaron coupe for nhra stock eliminater but was also considering building it for s/s. In super stock the rules are more liberal The only thing is you have to run a carb or injection and be n/a.My question is do any of you know what I have to convert or eliminate to take away computer control altogether? Or what parts I need to make this conversion work? Thanks for your opinions and thoughts.
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Just my opinion, but if you're going to run an 8V in SS (SS/GS?) then you'll want to go with twin 2-barrel Webers/Mikunis. A single 2 barrel progressive carb like the stock Shelby's got isn't going to cut it. Art Leong is building an SS/GS Neon. I think he said he's expecting ~300hp from it. Which will blow away the index if he hits it.
I used to have a manifold from the B&M supercharger kit. The bolt pattern on it matches the 4-bolt pattern from a Holley carb. That manifold might be something to look for as well.
Just for reference, I plan to start building an SS/GS engine for my '89 Daytona as soon as I get the car ready for stock (of course, it will take 2 years to build the engine once I get started, always does...). I'm using a 2.4 DOHC from a '97 Stratus, and I'm going to modify the turbo computer to run NA...
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01-23-2006, 02:02 PM
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#13
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2005
My Ride: 1987 caravan
Engine: 2.2 carb
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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VW did put out 1.7L, 1.8L and 2.0L aircooled flat four for your FYI. Usually
found on pancake or T4 engines.
NOISY as h*ll.  Spinning around 4,000 at 65 mph.
Cheers, Wizard
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01-23-2006, 06:27 PM
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#14
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Induct: Turbo + Nitrous
1/4: 0.000
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turbostocker, the baron you are thinking of running n/a is currently turbo? If you do run that n/a, you won't be as competitive as you should be because the compression of the turbo engines is around 8:1 as compared to the n/a's 9:1. That's gonna hurt performance all across the board. But if I was to try and run in a n/a class, a DOHC swap would be in my mind for sure. More power, and IIRC, they also have a smaller combustion chamber which will bump up compression a bit(can't remember how much off the top of my head though). Personally, I wouldn't use a webber, but carb is more personal preference. A header would be good, and if I was starting from a carbed setup, I wouldn't ditch the spark control computer, but if you're starting from a EFI setup, then I'd definately consider the vdub dissy.
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