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Carburetted and TBI Injected Feel free to discuss any subject that is specific to these cars, including but not limited to: modification, tuning, repair, parts replacement, identification and restoration. This is the place to talk about ALL-MOTOR performance and MPI conversions.

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Old 04-05-2006, 07:16 AM   #1
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Any good sources of information, including all of you, about the carbed engines?

Fairly good chance I'm picking up an 85 Omni GLH this weekend and I'm still deciding where to go with it, t2 swap, or modding the carbed engine.

I'd like 12's with this car either way, is this possible with the carbed engine?

I also need some basic carb information, or reading material. The last carbed vehicle I had was a '73 mustang..and I never touched the engine.

I want to do this right, and I want a nice, quick Omni Sleeper.

And off the subject of carbs, how difficult is it to install a new master cylinder, the one in the car now leaks fluid.
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Old 04-05-2006, 09:12 AM   #2
 
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check out this thread, and my post & link there

Cam+header+headwork= ?

also I just found the diagram for the holley which you get with a carb rebuild kit, if you would like I could scan and email to you; just basic exploded view & specs like float height

there is a book about the Holley 5200 series, which of course is a Hollley licensed copy of a Weber design. its a basic staged 2 barrel, small primary, bigger secondary.

12s are pretty much impossible with that carb/manifold - unless you get the car weight down to about 1500 pounds

I always wanted a TBI (or MPI) 2.5 in a GLH ; I think that would be a great combo (and relatively easy swap); with a header and head work you might see 14s.
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Old 04-05-2006, 09:23 AM   #3
 
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might see 14's...so I'm better off doing the t2 swap then to get what I'm after. I'll work on keeping the current engine running while I gather stuff for the swap.

Would it be possible to reduce the weight that much? replace the floor with aluminum, plexy glass just about all around, gutted? I know that's like 700lbs the car needs to lose, so I doubt its possible, lol.

If you would, I'd take that diagram. you can send it off to orangeblast05@gmail.com if that gets bounced back, try 05orangeblast@gmail.com

I don't often use the e-mail unless I'm giving it out on a forum
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Old 04-05-2006, 10:29 PM   #4
 
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If you'd want to go carbed totally, maybe this: I've had this idea kicking around in my head that I'd like to use, and I don't know if it would work but I'd like to try. It would involve lots of custom work, but bragging rights to a killer naturally aspirated motor. If allmotor reads this he could tell you if it'd work or not.

Here goes.
1.) Chuck out the stock computer system. You won't need it. You can adapt old school VW distributors to work, go with an aftermarket mallory distributor, fully adjustable timing curve and electronic ignition and pickup.
2.) Go with a 16v DOHC conversion from a Stratus.
3.) Build yourself a custom intake manifold
4.) Set on the manifold two Weber 44 or 48 IDF carbrators. (the motor should handle it, aircooled VW's often use two of these suckers, together they'll flow over 1000cfm's!)
5.) Go with as high compression pistons as you can afford to run the gas, if it's strip only, you can go crazy.

Unless you're very hands on at machining this won't be too much of an option, as highering out all that labour would be expensive. A TII motor would be much cheaper and easier to get power from.


Another idea that I'm kicking around is a true dual exhuast. Have you ever heard how aircooled VW's sound? They have the most amazing sound a 4 cyclinder can produce! The sound is like two harley's side by side! It's the next best thing to a V8 in my opinion. Personally I hate rice burners exhausts, and the best of them still stand my hair on end.
To mimic the sound of the VW I'd like to make a header that would extract the exhuast gases in the exact same pattern. The VW fires first one bank, then the other, resulting in a pause in each exhaust pipe. (I can't remember the exact firing order, but I did figure out which way it worked.)
If I figured it correctly you would need to make make 2 headers, one connecting cylinders 1 and 4, the other 2 and 3. The exhaust gases would then exit identical to a VW's. Whether or not it would sound the same is another story, but I want to try it!

I hope I haven't wasted your time with my rambling, just throwing out some ideas for you to toy with!
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Old 04-05-2006, 10:36 PM   #5
 
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http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/vie...GD0003&cartid=
http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/inc/pdetailv/1&pid=524

Linked distributor and carb so you know what I'm talking about.

Forgot to mention getting a header and camming the crap out of it. If it's drag only get the biggest cam that will fit.
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Old 04-06-2006, 07:23 AM   #6
 
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Yeah, like said, you're very unlikely to hit 12's even with a dual webber setup with dohc. I just don't see 12's. High 13's maybe, but I still doubt, considering stock 230hp srt-4's run high 13's. Sounds like a t2 swap is more suited to your goals. But don't just throw out the engine you have in there now, the 85 and earlier 2.2's had pretty strong rods, weight of those suckers was 691g, T2's were 699. So they should be almost as good as T2 rods. A lot beefier than the wimpy 659g leight weight rods the 86-88 T1/ 86-89 n/a cars had.

In a omni, if you go t2 and push it to 14 psi, I've heard of other guys with that same setup running low 14's. From there you'll just have to go bigger turbo, higher boost and the extras needed to support that of course. Still, 12's is a lofty goal, you will need TRACTION. Probably slicks because you'll need to hook up good and get some low 60' times.
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Old 04-06-2006, 10:03 AM   #7
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaytonaTurbo87
Yeah, like said, you're very unlikely to hit 12's even with a dual webber setup with dohc. I just don't see 12's. High 13's maybe, but I still doubt, considering stock 230hp srt-4's run high 13's. Sounds like a t2 swap is more suited to your goals. But don't just throw out the engine you have in there now, the 85 and earlier 2.2's had pretty strong rods, weight of those suckers was 691g, T2's were 699. So they should be almost as good as T2 rods. A lot beefier than the wimpy 659g leight weight rods the 86-88 T1/ 86-89 n/a cars had.

In a omni, if you go t2 and push it to 14 psi, I've heard of other guys with that same setup running low 14's. From there you'll just have to go bigger turbo, higher boost and the extras needed to support that of course. Still, 12's is a lofty goal, you will need TRACTION. Probably slicks because you'll need to hook up good and get some low 60' times.
The T2 swap would be just a start After that I'd begin purchasing the parts needs to strengthen the internals for 300+hp as well as the required bits to get there, big turbo and all the supporting goodies
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Old 04-11-2006, 05:35 PM   #8
 
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And a limited slip if you intend on driving it anywhere but at the track. lol
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