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Carburetted and TBI Injected Feel free to discuss any subject that is specific to these cars, including but not limited to: modification, tuning, repair, parts replacement, identification and restoration. This is the place to talk about ALL-MOTOR performance and MPI conversions.

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Old 10-04-2006, 02:58 AM   #1
fixing flooding  
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anyone know how to fix a flooding 2.5 tbi. all vacuum lines are good we can't figure it out.
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Old 10-04-2006, 07:42 AM   #2
 
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nearly impossible to flood a tbi. will it run at all? how are you determining it is indeed flooding? what does the spray pattern from the injector look like when running. how's the cam timing, hows the ignition timing, any codes or MIL illumination? what year is this engine? when did the problem start, what did you or some other "mechanic" do to it to cause this problem
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Old 10-04-2006, 12:08 PM   #3
 
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well timing is for sure off because my dad just adjusted it for max power without checking. its done it all the time but is worse now. with the cover off it squirts fuel strait up out of the throttle body. It must be flooding because it smells like gas. The pedal needs to be held to the floor to get it started faster. and the gas (leaking) or pissing out of the throttle body.
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Old 10-04-2006, 02:48 PM   #4
 
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my friends TBI horizon had a problem with flooding, turned out it was the fuel injector. Mayby try a junkyard one or two and see if that dosn't fix it. If it's squirting I'd say it could also be a seal on the injector as well. "adjusted it for max power without checking" that's an oxymoron, and now you have no idea where your timing is at Fuel first, then figure out the spark.
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Old 10-04-2006, 04:02 PM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by tkelly27
my friends TBI horizon had a problem with flooding, turned out it was the fuel injector. Mayby try a junkyard one or two and see if that dosn't fix it. If it's squirting I'd say it could also be a seal on the injector as well. "adjusted it for max power without checking" that's an oxymoron, and now you have no idea where your timing is at Fuel first, then figure out the spark.
he did it just on the distributer adjustment, weve tried two injectors, do they make an injector rebuild kit?
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Old 10-04-2006, 06:11 PM   #6
 
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get a TB rebuild kit, i think they have everything you will need
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Old 10-05-2006, 09:09 AM   #7
 
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if you tried 2 injectors the odds of 3 being bad is nearly impossible. sounds like it's time to actually have a real mechanic physically inspect the car. trying to solve this problem via the internet is nearly impossible. 20 people will tell you 20 different things to do and 20 parts thrown at the problem with nothing but more money thrown at it than having it fixed by someone that just doesn't move the distributor. that is really quality mechanics.

"my car worked great until I fixed it, now it has problems"
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Old 10-05-2006, 07:23 PM   #8
 
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You can start by getting an oscilloscope to check the wave-form of the fuel injector.

If you cycle the key on and off and on and off(not turning the engine over though), does it continually leak fuel out? If so the injector isn't sealed correctly.

Take it to a real shop.
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Old 10-05-2006, 08:58 PM   #9
 
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did you have the hall effect pickup out? If so check if you put it back in right..Or it will pop fuel backup thru the tbi and eventually catch fire does it back fire at all...How is the FPR?
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Old 10-05-2006, 09:46 PM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by Robb
did you have the hall effect pickup out? If so check if you put it back in right..Or it will pop fuel backup thru the tbi and eventually catch fire does it back fire at all...How is the FPR?
that sounds right on the money. can you tell me more about the hall effect pickup.
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Old 10-05-2006, 09:51 PM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by 22dodge
if you tried 2 injectors the odds of 3 being bad is nearly impossible. sounds like it's time to actually have a real mechanic physically inspect the car. trying to solve this problem via the internet is nearly impossible. 20 people will tell you 20 different things to do and 20 parts thrown at the problem with nothing but more money thrown at it than having it fixed by someone that just doesn't move the distributor. that is really quality mechanics.

"my car worked great until I fixed it, now it has problems"
i appreciate the speech but i do this all the time and it always works
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Old 10-06-2006, 07:22 AM   #12
 
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Obviously it isn't working. You have gotten several answers of which you already stated that you did that and no fix. Sure sounds like you need someone that actually knows what they are doing to look at your car
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Old 10-06-2006, 10:45 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by allmotor
Obviously it isn't working. You have gotten several answers of which you already stated that you did that and no fix. Sure sounds like you need someone that actually knows what they are doing to look at your car
well that was all my dad that did those things and not suggested by the forum. I havent even touched the car myself yet so sorry to say but it hasn't failed yet.
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Old 10-07-2006, 08:34 AM   #14
 
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Sounds like you need to keep daddy away from sharp objects.
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Old 10-08-2006, 08:56 AM   #15
 
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I have a FSM for 1991 TBI systems, I'm not going to go into details of the entire troubleshooting process(flooding the engine troubleshooting consist of 14 pages), but here are the possibilities:

- Leakage around the fuel injector seal

- Bad fuel injector connector

- Bad engine computer

- Fuel injector harness short to ground

- Computer harness short to ground

- Bad fuel pressure regulator

- Fuel pressure above 45psi

- Bad fuel injector

- Idiot dad working on car

- Restricted fuel return line

- Bad fuel pump

- Bad fuel return assembly



To make sure it's not the computer probe the Engine controller connector cavity 16 to check resistance. If it is below 10 ohms then you need to repair the K11 or Y11 wt/db wire for a short to ground.

If cavity 16 of the Engine controller is not below 10ohms, then probe one of the terminals in the injector connector, if it has resistance below 10 ohms then repair the injector or injector connector pigtail for a short to ground. If resistance is not below 10 ohms then it may be the Engine controller.
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