Info wanted on rejetting weber for 2.2.

[Wizard]

Weber 32/36 DFEV series have six jets and two emulsion tubes. FYI.

Okay, This carb was jetted for 1.7L aircooled VW in a bus, and got carb from ebay. I need to reconfigure this carb for 2.2L in this plymouth voyager to replace the ailing holley 5220 carb. Had searched for that info on 'net and could not find this info I'm seeking for.

Another question what place is good source for weber rebuild stuff & jets in canada? Not ebay.

Thanks & cheers, and have Happy New Year! Wizard

[DSP]

For baseline you should start with the factory settings. They should be pretty close to what you are going to end up with. I think the link provided by rosco in your last post has the factory settings for the dfev carb. I recently finished installing a dgav in my daily driver omni and after tuning the carb, I found the factory settings were fine. I probably can go one size larger with the idle jets, but the way it is now the idle mixture and idle speed screw were within limits (albeit just barely) during tuning. A couple sites you might want to check out are: http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tec...lean_best_.htm and http://www.racetep.com/webjettune.html
Truth is you are really not going to be able to tell how far off your carburetor may or may not be unless you put it on and try to tune it. As for jet kits and such there are a few companies that sell them over the internet, I don't know of any in Canada. I know you don't want to go the e-bay route but the build your own kit they have on there is still the cheapest. When you do get the weber up and running you will be amazed at at how well those little 2.2's can actually run.
Good Luck,
Dan

[Wizard]

Cool, Dan.

Is your omni automatic or manual? Mine is auto and I have to figure out on lever for both cables.

This is same instructions for setting up idle mix and speed.

Thanks, cheers, Wizard

[DSP]

My omni is a manual tranny, so I am not sure how to set up the cables for an auto. Maybe you can adapt something from the old holley or use it as reference to make something that will work. As far as I know the tuning should be similiar if not identical for an automatic. Just make sure the engine is warmed up and in neutral and you should be good to go.
Good Luck,
Dan

[DSP]

Forgot to mention in my reply, can you post or pm me a pic of the linkage showing how the cables are attatched? I might have a solution for you but it would help to see exactly what it looks like.
Thanks,
Dan

[Wizard]

The linkage this is currently on this weber is too short for arms, the orignal is longer for arms and I'll try to use the one from my junk holley carbs, Cut part of it off and put it on hopefully the oval shaped hole is same size & position as weber's.



Cheers, Wizard

[DSP]

Using the linkage from a junk holley was what I was going to suggest. However the oval hole is slightly smaller and will have to be ground out to make it fit. This is what I have had to do for mine. I used a dremel tool with a small grinding stone but I imagine a small round file (such as for sharpening smaller chainsaw chains) would work as well, just take longer. Also, the easiest way to get the linkage off the throttle shaft (after the whole shaft/linkage assembly is removed from the carb) is to get a file and file the end of the throttle shaft down until it is perfectly flush with the end or "face" of the linkage. Then get a hammer and small center punch and knock the throttle shaft out of the linkage. If it is filed down flush it will knock out easily. Hopefully you have a bench vise otherwise the above steps might be a little trickier. I am working on a second one now so I will try to post pictures of what I have done to it in order to get it to fit the weber shaft. This is the same setup I have installed on my daily driver omni and it works perfectly. Also looks better than anything else I have come up with.
Good Luck,
Dan

[Wizard]

Cool!!

Two minds think alike!

That is precisely what I'm going to do, instead, I'll cut the U-bend and slide this off, then cut the shaft off and grind flush, knock it out from back so I don't distort the oval hole too much. I have jeweler's files. Have to be good quality and they can cut quick.

But I'll look at other options since I do not want to put excess side loads on the bushings in the carb.

I used to do clock & watch repair as assistant years ago.

Machining is my name!

Cheers, Wizard

[DSP]

The side loading caused by how the throttle return spring attatches crossed my mind but I decided to go that route anyway since the tension isn't that great and you can actually re-bush the weber throttle shafts. You can get bushings from most of the large distributors and they cost around $1.50 a piece. If you ending up finding a way you think works better, let me know. If you end up using the old linkage, I'll try to post some pictures of what I did to mine.-hopefully they upload.
Dan

[DSP]

Damn computers! Let me try this again.