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02-18-2007, 08:45 PM
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#31
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: May 2005
Location: London Canada
My Ride: 84 Plymouth Turismo
Engine: 89 2.5 I/C TURBO
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Thats a kickass setup  , I thought Of doing a similar thing on my turismo, Altho my hoodscoop is reversed and would be cowl inducted....One thing I thought that when I seen this car was, how does he not get rain in the intake..or would that matter..
Robb 
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02-18-2007, 10:32 PM
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#32
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chicago, IL
My Ride: 1993 Daytona
Engine: 2.5L MPI N/A
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by Robb
how does he not get rain in the intake..or would that matter..
Robb 
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Holy crap, you just blew my mind. Thats a very good question. I don't know if that guy did anything, but wouldn't you be able to make a "gutter" right before the actual airbox. Water running down the scoop would drip into the gutter and run down wherever you'd divert it to. But I can imagine you still getting mist into the filter and wtf are you gonna do when you wash your car? Well you could seal it for that, but in a hurricane, game over :|
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02-18-2007, 11:12 PM
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#33
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: May 2005
Location: London Canada
My Ride: 84 Plymouth Turismo
Engine: 89 2.5 I/C TURBO
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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um, damn..good way to destroy a good K&N drop in. 
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02-20-2007, 06:31 PM
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#34
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Minnesota
My Ride: 1992 Dodge Daytona
Engine: 2.5l I-4 super 60
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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True, PRESSURIZATION of the engine bay is.... unrealistic to say the least especially through a rather "small" scoop. Yes, this is somewhat of a contradictory statement.
However, it will substancially reduce the amount of vacuum in the engine bay. Then, what happens when there isn't much of a pressure differential between the front and the rear of the radiator? Not much air flows through it. Which means ????? Overheating at highway speeds.
As mentioned in the other thread... think of how little frontal area a 3rd generation Daytona has. Combine this with a hood design that allows mosquitos, moths, dragonflies, etc to smash into your valve cover much the way it does to the bumper cover. There cannot be much vacuum under the hood.
Last edited by phantomrt : 02-20-2007 at 06:38 PM.
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02-20-2007, 06:48 PM
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#35
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chicago, IL
My Ride: 1993 Daytona
Engine: 2.5L MPI N/A
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by phantomrt
True, PRESSURIZATION of the engine bay is.... unrealistic to say the least especially through a rather "small" scoop. Yes, this is somewhat of a contradictory statement.
However, it will substancially reduce the amount of vacuum in the engine bay. Then, what happens when there isn't much of a pressure differential between the front and the rear of the radiator? Not much air flows through it. Which means ????? Overheating at highway speeds.
As mentioned in the other thread... think of how little frontal area a 3rd generation Daytona has. Combine this with a hood design that allows mosquitos, moths, dragonflies, etc to smash into your valve cover much the way it does to the bumper cover. There cannot be much vacuum under the hood.
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But wouldn't that setup just increase pressure into the intake alone? The scoops should have absolutely no effect on the engine bay.
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02-21-2007, 02:53 AM
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#36
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Induct: Turbo + Nitrous
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by phantomrt
True, PRESSURIZATION of the engine bay is.... unrealistic to say the least especially through a rather "small" scoop. Yes, this is somewhat of a contradictory statement.
However, it will substancially reduce the amount of vacuum in the engine bay. Then, what happens when there isn't much of a pressure differential between the front and the rear of the radiator? Not much air flows through it. Which means ????? Overheating at highway speeds.
As mentioned in the other thread... think of how little frontal area a 3rd generation Daytona has. Combine this with a hood design that allows mosquitos, moths, dragonflies, etc to smash into your valve cover much the way it does to the bumper cover. There cannot be much vacuum under the hood.
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I call bull.
You'd have to have a freakin huge scoop on your hood to make a difference in underhood pressure AT ALL. Like I said, only any raised are at least 1 or two inches above the hood is going to scoop in any air. There's a dead zone of air about 1-2" above the skin of your paint. Okay, yeah there's a little flow there, but diddly in comparisin to few more inches higher up. A scoop that bulges 1" over the top of the hood isn't scooping in much of anything, it's just a fresh air source. A recessed scoop isn't scooping anything at all. Even the V8 guys with the 6 pack scoops that are good sized and around 3" high and pretty wide aren't scooping in that much air, and their scoops didn't seal to the air cleaner and there was no overheating problems. The main benefit is the fresh air source, don't actually expect to "ram" any air into the engine. So no, you won't have any cooling problems without a mother of a scoop. And yeah if you've got the scoop totally plumbed into your air box you'll have no problems even with a monster scoop.
Yeah then there's the rainwater/bug issue. I had rigged up a 3" flex pipe to go straight from under my daytona's front grill opening directly to my TBI airbox. On a summer night I drove out of town and after that my air box was filled with dead mosquitoes.  So I took off my little "ram" air system after that one, not that it did anything for performance over my stock setup.
The challengers/cudas that came with the shaker scoop did have a recessed section around the air cleaner with a channel to flow water to drain pipes, so you'd want to take that into consideration as well.
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03-06-2007, 12:33 AM
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#37
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Gresham, Oregon
My Ride: '89 plymouth voyager
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 16.800
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After seeing the TBI intake and ex. manifolds with my own two eyes, there is a TON of meat that can be taken out of them. If you were tricky and absolutely dedicated to stealth power, you could chop out the flange, raise it up some, put a better flowing sheet plenum under the TBI, and then grind all the welds down and polish the whole thing. Nobody would ever be the wiser with all the air box crap on top of it...
On the ex. side, if a header is out of the question you could port the outlet to accept a 2.25 (or bigger) turbo down pipe which would look nearly stock! Also, knife edging where the 4 runners meet, you can port a bunch of material out from the runners as well. Relocating the O2 sensor further downstream to a spot that's not going to cause the different runners not want to play nicely. Thermal wrap to keep the intake cooler.
On to the throttle body itself. You could very easily bore it out and put a new throttle in there. Are you limited to stock configurations or just stock parts? I'm sure there is something you could do to that big fat injector sitting right above the only inlet into your engine that would have some effect. Maybe move it inward? Up? Knife edge the fuel lines and shiz that hold it up and out? Give it an aerodynamic "reservoir tip"? Every little bit helps!
Other tricks, it would look absolutely stock with a custom computer to modify the spark and fuel curves. You can also have the fan running 100% of the time to keep it cooler.
Haha, one of those ideas should do something for somebody... 
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05-06-2007, 12:22 AM
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#38
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: New Jersey
My Ride: 1989 Daytona ES
Engine: 4cyl 2.5 ltr
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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lol resurection again, but it seemed in the guys custom ram air setup he still had the stock air pipes setup to the fender. perhaps he had a vlavle/door thing. idk what u call it but he could open and close the ram air in certain conditions? looks fun. id like to try it. dont wanna ruin my hood tho :-/
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