need holley

[BillyZ]

i need a carb for my rampage 2.2 auto. it has a 5220 that has been reconstructed out of parts dont work 2 good and have no idea what was correct. any info appreciated #s,jet sizes other carb that will work thanks

[Wizard]

Don't repeat me like I did before like you did with those horrible holley 5220 carbs, instead get a weber. 32/36 DFEV (electronic choke) weber or 32/36 DFV (manual choke). Have to make correct linkage lever for weber.

There is plenty of low miles Webers on ebay for reasonable prices and got myself a DFEV. I'm going to get rebuild kit and tuning kits as well.
www.carbsonly.com & email contact: mail@carbsonly.com
I give a good vote for that vendor as I had tried to contact others and brushed me off.

One more: is that port for the advance distributor should work fine for EGR? The carbureted 2.2 use manifold pressure tranductor like a MAP so this distributor's advance vacuum nipple is left unused except I'm wondering if it is effective use for EGR instead.

Cheers, Wizard

[allmotor]

you want ported vacuum for EGR. that is a vacuum signal that only occurs at part throttle. it will have zero vacuum at idle and WOT. you also want that vacuum source to go thru a temperature vacuum switch so EGR does not apply during warm up.

[Wizard]

Hmmm, thanks!

That port was for the distributor advance signal on the weber. My caravan 2.2L system does not use this port, spark control computer taps into the manifold vacuum so should be fine with that "distributor advance signal" nipple (it is ported) for EGR oh yes, still will go through the temp vac switch. What do you think?

Cheers, Wizard

[allmotor]

the computer spark advance gets manifold vacuum. on the Weber carb that would be vacuum port below the throttle plates and is highest when throttle plates are closed while the engine is running and has no vacuum @ WOT

[Wizard]

Several days ago I was searching around to fix holley properly for years and found this forum catering to this tuning stuff for carburetor and FI.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/r...rb-central.php

I didn't know why, but I didn't put two and two and got four at first long ago by using "carburetor forum" in the google was the ONE I was searching for so long. I used carb jetting tuning, holley jets, etc to search with and emailed carb shops, and always get way off the marks or poor answers or none at all.
Also I didn't know that John at aircooled have experience with webers as well.
That was in 2004. I only put Tulip on the road last Sept and had to put up with 13MPG for six months plus.

I have the possible solution and won't know till weather warms up enough to pull carb once again and check the jets are in their correct locations. I did ask about THAT and got nothing like that back then!

Cheers, Wizard

[JONYMOPAR]

I'm Glad To See Some One Else Talking About This, I Want To Change The Carb On My Stock 87 Turismo And Was Torn Between The Weber And The 5220. How Bad Is The Nonfeedback 5220? Iwas Gonna Go That Rout For The Easy Instalation And How Much To You Have To Mess With The Linkage If I Go With The Weber.

[Wizard]

Two factors that dirtates this decision to do the swap:

Can you call up few rebuilders and see if they can professionally rebush these two butterfly shafts bushings? Most wear is at the linkage end and also on secondary throttle linkage side. Rotate throttle slightly open and Wiggle them, if you can see it move around (not rotate), then need to be rebushed.

Secondly, when you have rebuild kit ready, take carb apart and clean up, then lay the top on the carb body and see if there is excessive warpage of the top. If warped, top is fubar or use creative ways to companse for the warp I used jb-weld on the body to close the widest gap area, do this very judicsiously.

Webers on ebay is not too bad if you shop carefully and get least used ones.
DFV, also DFEV series is good, least work to fit in, epect to rebuild it and tune it in for the 2.2 if it was pulled from different engine. Linkage have to be made for throttle and if yours is automatic, extra arm for the throttle valve cable. Distrance from center pivot is important to the pins for the cable eyelets.

THis is what I'm in process of assisting a friend to make this said linkage for my DFEV.

Cheers, Wizard

[DSP]

!!WARNING!!
WEBER CARBS MAY CAUSE ADDICTION TO HESITATION FREE ACCELERATION AND SMOOTH IDLING!

Well, now that I got that out of my system, please do yourself a favor and do not put the holley 5220 on the car. Although it is better than the 6520 it is still a POS compared to the weber. Wizard's right, you can find webers in decent shape on e-bay regularly. I have picked up a few there myself as well. As for jet sizes etc, stick with what came stock from the factory as a baseline for tuning.
Boy wizard, have you finally gotten that weber installed into your van yet? If not, your garage must be the same as mine, a nice strip of gravel that doubles as a driveway.
Dan

[Wizard]

SERIOUSLY: Whirrs-hummed like a electric motor? H*ll yeah!! That what parent's 1990 toyota tercel carb car USED to before head decided to drop a valve head after faithiful service of nearly 12 years. Loved that car and I could had bought it off from parents but body rust got it too quickly even they had it fixed by a body work shop, I think shoddy. Was only about 160,000KM on that clock. And great way to have first car to learn driving with manual. OH WELL!

Back to Tulip's 2.2, carbs.

At one point last fall, 2.2 used to make good imition of strong deep shivering at hot idle, not the miss kind (I get that miss at cold startup when choke is closed, stops shivering once both choke opens up enough and engine start to warm). After the 2nd rebuild, then had to pull again to fix the base leak that bought down from 1500 idle to 1050 idle with idle screw barely completely unscrewed. Still shivers at hot idle but not as strong.

Once weather is good, going into it again and lap the base, replace float, swap pair of jets to their correct locations, etc and leave it for now because weber will not be ready till I have weber rebuild kit and box of jetpac small assorted set of jets to dial in for economy driving. Have to order these from USA.

PS: second question what do you deal with the throttle kicker assembly? One: it's worn, two: diaphgram for throttle kicker is semi-leaking. This is anti dieseling and throttle kicker to prevent stalling with automatic. What about retro fitting a dashpot and forget about antidieseling thing?

For the MS-Extra to go with 16V DOHC tall deck 2.5L N/A build up, I'm also ordering those stuff as well. Things takes TIME.

Where i park Tulip routinely in front lot when I work fixing TVs/TV projos there. When I want to fiddle with Tulip, I park it behind the TV shop building, as pictured:



Cheers, Wizard

[DSP]

Wish I could help you out more wizard, but all the carbed cars that I have worked on were/are manual transmissions. I'm sure you'll be able to figure out something based off of the old linkage.
Best of luck,
Dan

[Wizard]

DSP, how is the manual clutch feel on caravans?

Stiff or what ecompared to other vehicles like mid 1990 toyota, late 1980 VW and 2004 TJ jeep? I had experienced these but I didn't have chance to experince any "K" based manual cars (chryslers) besides TJ.

Oh, shifting is not the issue, it's the starts that gets me. Because not enough practice.

Cheers, Wizard

[DSP]

I haven't driven a manual caravan but I imagine it would be the same as all the omni's I have driven over the years. To me, they all seem to be semi-stiff. Compared to cars I have driven with hydraulic clutches (saturn, eclipse, suburban, tundra, etc.) they do feel stiffer. I have driven one older golf and it felt virtually identical to my omni. Funny thing is; I have driven a stick for so long that when I do drive an automatic, I keep trying to shift it out of sheer force of habit. Takes me a while to get it into my head that there is no gearshift (if it has a shifter on the floor it only makes it worse).

Dan