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Carburetted and TBI Injected Feel free to discuss any subject that is specific to these cars, including but not limited to: modification, tuning, repair, parts replacement, identification and restoration. This is the place to talk about ALL-MOTOR performance and MPI conversions.

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Old 05-03-2007, 07:16 PM   #1
Just bought a new (to me) 92 sundance 2.5 tbi  
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: pittsburgh pa

My Ride: 92 Sundance/96 2500
Engine: 2.5 NA / 5.9 tbodzl
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 32
Feedback: (1)
Hey all.. new to the board, just bought a 1992 sundance 2.5 tbi, wanted to ask those in the know here about it. I`ve owned a 96' dodge turbo diesel truck for the last 4 years so I guess I should have been here sooner.. doh

Anyways, I want to upgrade this car for the best balance of performance and mileage, with the balance hanging very heavy to the mileage side, of course.

The car has 67k on it, is an old-lady creampuff, doesnt smoke, and looks like its been taken care of nicely during its life.

I would like to change out the air intake system, removing the metal airbox/filter and replace it with a cone style, and some type of hose/etc... i dunno....? Where could I find such a thing?

Would advancing the timing (if possible on this car, as its run partially by computer), would it help at all? I`m not sure how to do this.

It feels like one of my throttle return springs are broken, as the pedal is very touchy, and doesnt have much resistance. Any suggestions on that? I havent had a chance to tear it apart yet.

The spedometer doesnt work on this car, does the cable have any TSBs issued on it, or is it just a common point of failure?

The AC system is, of course, not working... Any recommendation on a R12 to 134 conversion? hmm..

As I mentioned earlier, I`m trying to go for max mileage on this car, any help would be great.

Thanks!!
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Old 05-04-2007, 05:37 AM   #2
 
NAJ
Human Factory Service Manual
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: New Jersey

My Ride: 1990 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.2 L VNT
1/4: 15.570

Posts: 3,783
Feedback: (3)
Ignition Timing: Start engine and warm to operating temp.With engine running disconnect Coolant Temp Sensor,Fan should come on and Check Engine Lamp will illuminate(Vehicle is in Failure and brings timing to base).To change timing loosen Distributor hold down and turn Distributor,shut off engine and reconnect Coolant Temp Sensor.Timing mark is veiwed thru window on Bell Housing.I do not think advancing timing over spec will give performance/economy increases and may cause detenation problem.
Speedometer: Vehicle does not use a cable,all electric.If there is a problem with the Vehicle Speed Sensor or Circuit a Code 15 will be set.Code 15 will not illuminate the Check Engine Light.If you have access to a Scan Tool you can see if the Controller is seeing MPH,if not and no code set we have to assume that the circuit is fine and the problem lies in the wiring to the cluster,the cluster itself or in the speedometer head.
There are no TSB's related to inop speedometer.
Return Spring: The return spring is an integral part of the TBI Assembly.
Disconnect the cable at the TBI and move throttle by hand at TBI to determine if problem is at TBI unit or cable.
A/C: If system is inop is it empty or eletrical/mechanical malfunction?
To retrofit you need a kit with new fittings and I would replace the Reciever-Drier due to age.Evacuate System for 30 minutes and fill system with R134a.
Only fill system to 80% of R12 capacity.R134a operates at higher pressures than R12.
Notes;
1) Molecular structure of R134a is smaller than R12 and will find its way out of smaller leaks than R12.
2)Do not overfill system, R134a does not react like R12,overfilling will cause system to not cool properly.
3)Bubbles in site glass are normal after retrofitting to R134a,even when system is full so using the site glass to fill system will not work.
2 other notes;
1) Average life expectency of HO2 is 60,000 miles.A lazy O2 Sensor can decrease fuel economy by up to 7 MPG without setting a fault code.
2)It is recommended to replace timing belt at 60,000 miles.
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Old 05-06-2007, 11:16 AM   #3
 
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: pittsburgh pa

My Ride: 92 Sundance/96 2500
Engine: 2.5 NA / 5.9 tbodzl
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 32
Feedback: (1)
Thanks for the info NAJ

I think I`ll leave the timing alone, doesnt sound like its worth it.

I am getting a #15 on the CEL flash codes, havent been able to find a cheap place to use a scanner thats compatible with a 92 vehicle. I have an ODBII scanner, but that wont work.. sigh.. My dad told me it could be an issue with the gear spindle, where it was staked from the factory. Could have come loose and is just spinning on the shaft, and not activating the speed sensor.. hmm any ideas?

The return spring on the TBI body is intact, however, the spring that is closer to the TV cable connection was missing. I got a generic spring from my parts store, and the sensitivity is much less. I am missing the piece that connects the TV cable end to the throttle linkage, looks like a weird connector, any ideas on that? Or would I have to buy a whole new TV cable? Havent tried the dealer yet..

AC has no pressure in the lines. I guess I`ll have to invest in a conversion kit and hope for the best. There was a little bit of pressure at the shrader, so I might get lucky....

I bought a new o2 sensor, its going in as soon as I get some time. Just changed out the rear brake lines and cylinders, they were shot. Not a real bad job, pretty time consuming though.

This car had a new headgasket put on before I bought it. Hopefully they changed the timing belt at the same time. I gotta pull the cover and see how it looks..

I need that TV cable connector bad. Anyone out there with an extra end, I`ll buy it from ya!

tnx

-jerry
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Old 05-06-2007, 07:49 PM   #4
 
NAJ
Human Factory Service Manual
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: New Jersey

My Ride: 1990 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.2 L VNT
1/4: 15.570

Posts: 3,783
Feedback: (3)
Found a 1992 Chrysler Power Train Diagnostics Manual for 2.2/2.5 EFI.
Diagnostics are different on AC/AP Body than the other body styles for "No Vehicle Speed Signal".To follow Chryslers diagnostics you will need a Scan Tool for 1 or 2 steps.1st step is to check connector at Speed Sensor for damaged or loose terminals,if ok check Orange Wire with DVOM for 7 Volts.
If Voltage is not present repair OR wire for open between sensor and harness splice. If ok,need scan tool.
TV Cable, I do not think the cables are servicable,look on the cable housing for a Chrysler Part # (7 Digits probably starting with a 4) If you find the # I can run a Parts Inquiry and see if it still available and where.
AC, If the system is empty you do not have much choice but to retrofit,evac and recharge. I would recommend while it is empty you replace the "Crush Gaskets" and "O'Rings" at the Compressor Hose Assembly,Condenser,Expansion Valve and Evaporator to eliminate those as
leak points and replace the Drier.I would also recommend adding leak
detection dye to the system.
Let me know if you need any more info.
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