dist and carb change

[dodge78]

Here is a pictorial of the 1.7 distributor from an '80 and a 2.2 '83 Omni, and a Holley 5200 from a '77 Pinto that I installed on an '87 Omni 2.2 n/a.

dodge78/32 36 17 - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Its running but needs to be finished soon.

Oh, dont veiw as a slide show, the pictures are huge.

[24kilo]

Cool! I'm putting a 009 on my now, I have a 1.7 and sprark module also (if I don't like the 009). I'm also running a 5200 jetting is 219 375. Runs a little rich on the bottom going to drop the prim coulpe steps to get it in. Good luck on your

[Wizard]

What is typical numbers for primary jets (air and fuel) for 5220 especially stock spec? Oh, the emulsion tube have a number on it as well.

Nice job on pics! That helps big time to see the early and late distributors along with 1.7L distributor.

Cheers, Wizard

[dodge78]

Its done. Well almost, I need to take the fan controller out of the truck after I get a two speed fan controller for it. I have a switch taped to the blinker arm to turn it on for now. I will have to adjust the choke a little when it gets cold.
The wire harness between the dist and the control was taken from the '80 Omni that I got the dist. from. The brown/yellow wire goes to the neg terminal on the coil and the blue wire goes to keyed power ( which I ran to the pos side of the coil ). The timing mark stays in one spot now, no more bouncing around.
When I was pulling vacuum lines, I got to pulling out wires too. I moved the voltage regulator, installed the electronic ignition and put in a relay for an a/c kicker on the left fender.

dodge78/32 36 17 b - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

[Wizard]

Ugh, couldn't delete this post, look to the post #6.

Cheers, Wizard

[Wizard]

Important to have ignition, carb and engine in WORKING condition, no air LEAKS before you perform this steps!

Some of the choke bi-metal heaters are adjustable, if so, loosen 3 screws and adjust heater choke for light force to close choke completely. This is done with carb cold at room temp. Very important to have choke mechanisms free of dirt and no stickies, no lube at all. Use ohm meter probe the choke heater's male spade connector and carb's body. Should be appox under 10 ohms. If not, disassemble the choke heater via 3 screws/rivets, recheck the removed heater by probing the male connector and the shiny back of heater's if good, if not pitch it and get another heater, clean all the metal parts and bend the curled tang forward and reassemble. Recheck ohms and proceed.

Then,

To set choke amount pulloff: This is for when you tap the gas to open choke after start up to bump start up rpm down after startup.

That is done at room temp. Not COLD like 32F with cold engine and non-running, use vacuum pump on the choke pull-off diaphgram (should hold vacuum or for loong time, if not replace with new diaphgram from rebuild carb kit.), apply vacuum and keep it there, choke will open slightly have a drill or gauge rod (info from FSM) insert this rod between wall and choke butterfly and press on butterfly lightly, at same time adjust the allen bolt in the pulloff housing till rod is contacted. Done.

To set up fast idle rpm, put fast idle screw on slowest step cam (the last step on that cam), adjust for 1600rpm appox.

Base idle RPM (choke is off, engine warmed up, transmission in Neutral) and ignition timing, idle mixture screw works hand in hand. Go back and forth till you have it. The timing and idle rpm is on your underhood sticker/engine bay sticker where emissions info is. (Unplug vacuum hose and plug that hose for the transductor on the computer only when performing ignition adjustment) No need to reset computer or unplug the coolant temp sensor (not same way as TBI/Turbo were).

Don't adjust idle mixture screw (engine hot) for smoothest engine, you need a sniffer or O2 or wideband O2 to monitor the exhaust. Smoothed out idle without these instrument is too rich idle, hurting the MPG. If can't get it right or poor MPG etc, jets are not right or (also passages, pinholes in the venturis) partially blocked or carb is plum worn out as 5220/6520 are notorious for throttle shafts bushings wear.

Cheers, Wizard

[Wizard]

Important to have ignition, carb and engine in WORKING condition, no air LEAKS before you perform this steps!

Some of the choke bi-metal heaters are adjustable, if so, loosen 3 screws and adjust heater choke for light force to close choke completely. This is done with carb cold at room temp. Very important to have choke mechanisms free of dirt and no stickies, no lube at all.

Then,

To set choke amount pulloff: This is for when you tap the gas to open choke after start up.

That is done at room temp. Not COLD like 32F with cold engine and non-running, use vacuum pump on the choke pull-off diaphgram (should hold vacuum or for loong time, if not replace with new diaphgram from rebuild carb kit.), and a drill or gauge rod (info from FSM) insert this rod between wall and choke butterfly and press on butterfly lightly, at same time adjust the allen bolt in the pulloff housing till rod is contacted. Done.

To set up fast idle rpm, put fast idle screw on slowest step cam (the last step on that cam), adjust for 1600rpm appox.

Base idle RPM (choke is off, engine warmed up, transmission in Neutral) and ignition timing, idle mixture screw works hand in hand. Go back and forth till you have it. The timing and idle rpm is on your underhood sticker/engine bay sticker where emissions info is. (Unplug vacuum hose and plug that hose for the transductor on the computer only when performing ignition adjustment) No need to reset computer or unplug the coolant temp sensor (not same way as TBI/Turbo were).

Don't adjust for smoothest engine, you need a sniffer or O2 or wideband O2 to monitor the idle mixture. Smoothed out idle without these instrument is too rich idle, hurting the MPG. If can't get it right or poor MPG etc, jets are not right or (also passages, pinholes in the venturis) partially blocked or carb is plum worn out as 5220/6520 are notorious for throttle shafts bushings wear.

Cheers, Wizard

[dodge78]

The carb is off a '77 pinto with a 2.3. I rebuilt it and when through the setting up of the carb. When I start the car, its on high idle. After a few seconds, I tap the gas, it goes to idle. The only thing that was not changed was the electric choke because it looked to be in good shape, but I'm guessing that where the problem is.

[Wizard]

this is not a/c kicker.

This is called throttle kicker solenoid valve to apply vacuum to the throttle kicker diaphgram when computer demands more throttle to raise extra 200rpm to hold up like for a/c or for emissions reasons (notice the rpm is raised for short time as you come to stop?)

The anti-dieseling solenoid kicker (assembly) opens the throttle a set amount (determined by the base idle screw) when keyed to on. When key is off or out solenoid is off closes the throttle more completely to kill engine from event of dieseling. To test this:

key off, wiggle the base idle screw, should wiggle some.
key on or running, that screw should not wiggle.

Make sure the throttle stop contacts are clean as computer needs to know throttle is "closed".

Choke power is via the oil pressure switch then to keyed power.
Just a reminder so you don't get confused if you don't have power at the choke heater with key on but engine not running.

You can test the throttle kicker diaphgram with hand pump vacuum. If defective, need some scouting to find new one as so many have stopped making these parts, dealer do not have it anymore.

Cheers, Wizard

[dodge78]

Its an a/c kicker now. I have no computer to control it any more. I tried to wire it direct to the compressor circuit but it made things go goofy. So I wired in a relay and it works just fine.

I left the choke circuit alone with the exception of putting a mating end on the choke wire.

I am tiring of signing in for everything I do on this site. Is anyone else running into this?

[Wizard]

Fix your browser to retain cookies/java. Then this should hold.

Keep us updated on this choke thing. Wasn't it non-functioning or sticking?

Cheers, Wizard