Building an N/A Omni

[jverrill]

FWD performance sells both NGK GR4 plugs and NGK GR5 plugs, the GR5's are two steps colder than stock, any suggestions on those?

[danbyrambler]

Hello, I'm new here also, so please forgive any FUs - Anyway, On running cooler - does your car have AC? If not, a larger 2 row like a Spectra CU656 will fit - new on eBay now for $59.32 total #400274239253 - Spectra has a good look up - http://ecat.spectrapremium.com/ - A CU656 will fit the AC cars, just hard to find new&low price right now - Both are a little bigger than the CU867 that's in my AC AT Rampage & both are all metal, have the AT cooler & Heater return nipple - - PLUGS - lots praise in Sticky: 2.2, 2.5, 3.0L guru's-need your input for a n/a FAQ hop up thread @ begin of the forum & other threads for NGK ZFR5N & AUTOLITE 985 Plugs - Same plugs I'm running in my Jeep - was a little afraid of the long reach & the snake oil claims - But they work-Definite improvement - Picked up 3-400 idle rpm, 1/2 to 1 mpg & haven't had a cold since - - This link http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/showthread.php?=12128 was a big help for me & my DFEV 32/36 install/fine tune - 5 blade neon rad fan - Cherry Bomb GP r some other mods I'm running - The shift kit is a temp for me-I've a link somewhere for the home made conversion & other mods - will find & post if wanted - didn't mean to turn this into a book -

[ATaylorRacing]

A full manual valve body has allowed my 2nd automatic transmission to go nearly 100,000 miles with no browning of the fluid and no burning smell at all. The first auto that was put in lasted 100,000 miles until the thing was totally worn out from clutch slippage. As far as radiator....my 84 Horizon with the HO powertrain only has a single radiator listed at ALL car parts places....when I needed one the replacement was not as big as the stock one. (My car is no AC) I then ordered one for the carb GLH and the correct one came in.

[danbyrambler]

Yeah, I understand the car parts thing - it's sad - The counter clowns & phone monkeys haven't a clue & if you can get your non standard/listed part then no warranty-no nothing period even if it's sold damaged - NONE of the car parts places will list Autolite 985s for my carbed 2.2 rampage same as the Spectra CU655 radiator, but both fit and work well - My truck is dealer added AC & the rad is a tight fit-v close to the compressr fittings but it works - only diff is a longer top hose from a k car & the heater hose return fitting is lower on the rad owise same 1 inch inlet-same 1.25 outlet bent 90 & AT cooler lines & temp fittings the same-I did add a few extra fasteners top & btm-no biggie & I'm no mechanico grande - didn't need it, just saw the unit as a cheap upgrade - - Anyway, the Spectra site is a good ref for ideas & dimensions/dementions - - - Don't know if a good oil filter cross is on Turbo, so JIC here's a link to WIX - gives specs, apps & you can correct them if an error or omission is found. I can't include urls yet so just go to wixfilters with the usual 3w dhotkom b4 & dhotkom after - here's another for shocks: monroe & after the dhotkom /catalog/Misc-information -then click on the 1st link;mounting and length sheets - great source for cross ref & ideas - used it back when to fit air shocks to my Triumph Spitfire - If I'm unclear on anything just em

[jverrill]

ok so yes i do have AC, i questioned about running cooler because of my underdrive pulley and possible overheating at idle.

For the Plugs i decided to go with the NGK ZFR5N

I may possibly throw on an aftermarket rad fan(smaller and less noisy)

The link for the carb tuning didnt work for me?? maby its just my computer


And also for the running cooler, i dont think ill have a problem because even in 100 degree weather with the AC blasting at idle my car has never once went past the halfway mark, and yes it have a good thermostat, changed it because it stuck closed and thats the only time it has ever gotten past halfway(it actually went to the red, then a bit further lol).

As of right now the only thing that needs to be done with the powertrain part of the build is wait for my dang cam to come in and the trans mods

[jverrill]

Heres some pictures of everything so far

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[danbyrambler]

Nice pics - Giving me ideas - Anyway, the gist of some Weber posts of what worked/helped others & myself is in this forum under "weber once again" - The settings I found that worked best for my truck are last - - - - Are you running vac to the omni's distributor? That conversion is coming up for me - still not sure what ICM will be used - What fires your set up? I'm still learning & reading/looking at all I can find. So far I've just moved the coil - mostly to make room for an oil catch - Tight fit - probably been done before - heres a few pics - any suggestions/cautions are welcome

[zOMbNI]

I have a b&m supercharger for sale if you are serious about that route.

[jverrill]

First off, sorry for no reply in a while, been real busy making that $$$ to fund all my cars.

Yes i am running vac to my distro from the ported vac line from the carb.
Im using the stock coil with my distros +@- hooked straight to the coil(distro has internal control module) I keep the existing positive and remove the original negative.

Now the tach dosent work but all i gotta do to fix that is hook up the coils negative to one of the three wires that came off the stock distro(havent done this yet but it makes perfect sense, so dont take my word on it till i can say for sure)

For the supercharger, i PM'ed you.

[ATaylorRacing]

I also think that I failed to mention that Matchbox has been raced for MANY years with no timing advance! I was tired of the computer failing at the wrong time and not giving me any timing, so I said to heck with that and pulled off the vacuum line and pluged off the ends at the carb. It is strange that when we tried the old hot rod trick of raising the base timing made the car nearly as slow as my 3 banger Geo!!!??? We have it set at 12 degrees base timing. The short times are sometimes in the 2.1s...with an automatic leaving at only 2200 rpm and since it still has the stock roller cam it runs its quickest shifting at only 4750 rpm. Someday I might get my Matchbox a gift of the Mallory distributor to make more power once I get off the line....but I might not since it took many years to get it this consistant....consistant = $$$$$$$$$$$$$$ in bracket racing!

[OL'grouch]

In regards to a couple of earlier replies, a cooler thermostat will work better than removing the center. IF you don't have a computer, a 180 degree will help a denser fuel/air charge get into the cylinders. Alas, if you havea computer that controls warm up (all F.I. engines and a few carb. engines) you will slurp fuel like a pig. The engine will stay in open loop mode and never get the full power it is capable of.

Second, drilling holes in the thermostat body. This is actually a good idea. If there isn't a jiggle valve on the thermostat, I drill a 1/64 hole in the body of the thermostat and make sure it is at the top when installed. What this does is let the air burble up so you have water on the metal tube in the metal instead of air. Air is a good insulator and the engine can overheat before the t-stat opens. When it does finally open, water will blast out of the radiator, thermoshock the cylinder heads and do all sorts of nasty things inside the engine. This may not destroy the engine right away but it shortens the service life.

[jverrill]

Ok so ive dissapeared from this site for quite some time, ive been waiting sooo long for my camshaft, Thank you FWD performance for taking nearly 5 months on my cam...

Well anyways car is up and running and on the road again and i have some issues.

First, its slow as $hit

Second, its horrible on gas mileage

Third, gas seems to be making its way into the oil

Fourth, No matter what i do i cant get the tach to work with the VW distro. I can get it to read a signal but the needle flutters around like crazy(within 1500rpms of actual speed) And i tried a tach/dwell meter tuner tool and also a sunpro tach i had laying around and they give a clean reading without the needle fluttering, any ideas??

The car idles amazing, revs up good, has no dead spots. It never misfires, not even a little sputter here and there.

The plugs arnt black, pretty white. So if anything i may be running lean. So why such bad gas mileage? Also i mentioned the oil smells like gas, could it be getting past the rings? If that were the case wouldnt it burn oil? (which it dosent)

I have straight pipes on it but i stuck a muffler on it with baffles so its got back pressure.

i adjusted cam timing 6 degrees advance to compensate for the head milling (.060)

ignition timing is 12 degrees, i need to check full advance but gotta get ahold of a advance-able timing light.

I put it to the floor on some back roads and would go 80mph and struggle to keep going, my stock TBI will pull consistently to 100mph, and so did this car before i messed with it.

I havent gotten around to any shift mods yet but the trans seems to shift nicely and feels healthy.

Anyone have any ideas on what can be going on with my car? Its slower than it was :0

[danbyrambler]

What you've said sounds so familiar - I'm just now starting on my 2nd Rampage - A twin of #1; 2.2 carb Auto AC PS PB - Anyway, some of what I learned - Hope this helps. - - - - Slow as S*** & Horrible MPG - Will improve/can be addressed after fixing other probs. - Gas into oil - Had same thing going on & My trouble was the fuel pump. - If your Tach is connected to the coil neg & bulkhead & cluster connections are clean it's probably time to start looking for a replacement. - You do need a hand held tach with the advance feature to see whats going on with the VW dist - I think some(air cooled) will not allow enough advance for the 2.2 - I yanked my air cooled job & went the SVDA route & then back to the 32/36's e tubes & air correctors(the Pope may be right about Carter carbs) - After I went through the same troubles you're having, plus a few more, I had a good running DD-GG & now starting on another - pm / em if any ?s - Don't want to post a book here.

[MarkassBauer]

hey!!! yes turbo valves from a 287 head are made to last longer and tolerate more heat. skip porting your exhaust manifold just spend the money and get a hooker long tube header i think you can order them from jegs unless you can find a good used hooker or direct connection one on here. maganacore wires from forward. find the stock heat range for the champion plug and maybe go a step or 2 colder considering the up'd cr and the higher octane try a couple heat ranges see whats the warmest you can get away with without getting spark knock. msd ignition coil. 1" carb spacer. dont take out the thermostat you want it to run cool but doing that would be too cold and it would let carbon build up in the upper cylinders. carbs like to be warm remember. get a glh hood it'll have the scoop and let somemore air in the engine bay, you can even cut the metal out in front of the a/c, alt behind the grille and get some cool air flow that way.

[ATaylorRacing]

Matchbox is not slow as that....but nearly. The tall block 2.5 was slower than the common block 2.5 that we put in last fall. It is gutted down to 1960 lbs and I figure it at about 96 hp at the tires. A Coan converter helped a full second and I love the FMVB from Cheetah. Mid 16s is now the norm with my 0-60' times nearly as quick as my 05 SRT4 that runs 12.17!

I STRONGLY urge you, and everyone, to get a big digital EGT gauge that has a high end memory on it. When it is at 1390 degrees at the finish line it is dead on. It also saved my first 2.5....when it was put in with a mechanical secondary I drove the car to Topeka (2006) and had to stop 10 times to jet up the primary side of the carb to keep the thing from going nuclear!