What Vaccum lines do i need to keep??

[sinfulrelations]

hello everyone, ive been looking around on the search and haven't came up with much other than bits and pieces of what im looking for, i have a 84 rampage and im looking to clean things up a bit under the hood, im curious as to what vacuum lines i will need to keep for proper operation, i know i will need the one for the brake booster but not sure what else...

[92TurboTona]

keep brake booster and the only other one you need to keep is the Spark Control vac line and the PCV to the manifold

thats it, all other ones aren't needed IF you have a holley 5200

now if you have a Holley 6520 and you have A/C you need to keep the Kickdown solenoid vac line

My turismo had a Weber 32/36 DFAV and the only vac line i kept was the Spark Control Computer and brake booster line

[sinfulrelations]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 92TurboTona keep brake booster and the only other one you need to keep is the Spark Control vac line and the PCV to the manifold thats it, all other ones aren't needed

im guessing the spark control is the one running to the computer on the drivers side fender near the battery?

[92TurboTona]

you are correct, you need to keep that one for proper performance

i edited my post as i forget to mention a few things as i need to know those first before i can guarantee which to remove

[sinfulrelations]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 92TurboTona you are correct, you need to keep that one for proper performance i edited my post as i forget to mention a few things as i need to know those first before i can guarantee which to remove

i dont have ac or cruise, i just got done pulling the lines here is a couple pics do you think it looks right


this is where i hooked it up to the carb


Another shot

it seems to run alot better now as-well, no more spitting and sputtering at an idle, i think the charcoal can might have had something to do with that it smells horrid of gas

[92TurboTona]

you need to hook up the spark control computer vac line to the nipple by the air mixture screw by the base of the carb valve cover side, other than that all looks good

[92TurboTona]

how did the car run, and did you move the spark computer vac line to the base of the carb next to the idle air mixture screw

heres a link to some good info if you are keeping your holley
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f11...guide-1-a.html

[sinfulrelations]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 92TurboTona how did the car run, and did you move the spark computer vac line to the base of the carb next to the idle air mixture screw heres a link to some good info if you are keeping your holley http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f11...guide-1-a.html

yes i moved the vaccum line, its running alot better now, but after it warms up it idles low, and somewhat rough it almost sounds like the idle needs adjusted, i dont have a tach on it but it seems like after warming up it only idles at 600 rpm, and more than likely when i get my taxes back ill be putting the weber 32/36 carb on it, im just not sure which one i should get the DFEV or DGAV, oh also if create a vaccum leak it runs super smooth, could my a/f mixture be too rich?

[sinfulrelations]

I went out and recorded a video to better explain whats happening, it actually ran better this time, must be because it above freezing now lol

[sinfulrelations]

[92TurboTona]

i am thinking you may be too rich and when you create that vac leak it balances out the mixture, how many turns did you back it out or in

as far as the weber carb you want, you need the 32/36 DFEV

[sinfulrelations]

i havent played with the carbs settings at all, the po might have tho, and whats the difference between the different weber carbs?

[92TurboTona]

the main differences is the choke system,

DFEV- Electric Choke, choke linkage rotates clockwise (this is the one you want as the linkage is on the correct side of the carb)

DGAV- Water Choke, choke linkage rotates counter clockwise

DGEV- Electric Choke, choke linkage rotates counter clockwise

DGV- Manual Choke