Performance Questions: Head

[RPMurph]

bah...i thought this was like comonly known stuff

from looking around in the induction section the square tooth->round tooth looks to be 4*.....

[89acclaim]

The 88 2.5 was a round tooth but it also has a diffrent sprocket than the one on your 2.5.

Daniel Merrill




<---- PLEASE Provide feedback for posts you like!

[22dodge]

Quote:

Originally Posted by RPMurph bah...i thought this was like comonly known stuff from looking around in the induction section the square tooth->round tooth looks to be 4*.....

it just doesnt work that way. I've built 1000's of racing 4cyl. I built 2 identical 2300 fords, both heads milled the same amount, both blocks decked the same amount both using the same Isky cam... both did NOT degree exactly the same on the cam... one required 6° advance and the other required 8½° to center the cam... so it's all up to you, you can just keep dreaming of makeing your car more powerful, or you can actually make your car more powerful but just slapping parts on it will do more harm than good if you choose not to do it right.

[RPMurph]

so what would u suggest i do? get an adj cam gear and try to to center it correctly then just test drive it and adjust it to what feels best? then when i do the milling basically do the same thing?

[89acclaim]

What I believe 22dodge is talking about is tolerance stack. Since our engines are production engines there is a certain amount of tolerance in everything including the cam keyway. No engine is the same in that respect, and the tolerances to tend to build up. If you would like P4286776 is the part number for the degree wheel adapter for 2.2 engines, and P4452990 is for the degree wheel. For the offset cam keys it is P4349650, and they have a cam sprocket with 5 keyways the 89+ version it P4529497. All the part numbers are from the 4th edition the mopar 2.2/2.5 book.

Daniel Merrill




<---- PLEASE Provide feedback for posts you like!

[22dodge]

yep... and I have the degree wheel adapter, offset keys and the multi key degree wheel all forsale.

[RPMurph]

ok i think i am getting more confused by the day with this thread.........could you please take me through the process of how you would figure out the correct amount to offset for a cam swap?

[22dodge]

here is a link one HOW TO DEGREE a cam. READ it then ask ???

http://www.iskycams.com/degreeing.php

[RPMurph]

woot that will help.....what would i ever do without you.........

ok maybe im just slow(maybe hehe) if a bunch of people have tried square tooth to round tooth and found it to be approx 4*....i understand there will be tolarances....but will they be that drastic? i mean after i get it in ill try advancing it and retarding it till it feel the way i want it so wouldnt that be a 'close enuf estimate' do you think? or do you think some may be so far off as to cause my engine not to start/run right

basically what im trying to say is...after i put it in, im goin to try to tune it some im not gonna just throw it in and offset it 4* and leave it there

[22dodge]

if you are JUST tossing in a different STOCK cam, there really is no need to degree or advance the cam. BTW you will be disappointed with all the work of using a 1988 cam.. infact I'd bet you wouldn't even notice a difference in performance. but hey knock yourself out.

if you are milling the head, you need to degree the cam. you car will run ok and start just fine but you may notice a lag off the line with the cam retarded from the effects of milling.

[The S is Silent]

22dodge...good article. But, I'm confused about one thing. It says to always turn the crankshaft in the normal operating direction...but in the positive stop method for finding TDC on piston #1, it says to rotate the engine backwards around to get the second measurement? I'm assuming it's ok to turn the engine backwards like this?

[RPMurph]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 22dodge you car will run ok and start just fine but you may notice a lag off the line with the cam retarded from the effects of milling.

this is if i dont degree the cam right? that would be fixed by tuning it some with an adjustable cam gear right?

[itoktoeatfish]

If you are getting back cut valves you basicly have to get a valve job unless you dont want them to seal? you cant make chicken salad from chicken poop

[22dodge]

Quote:

Originally Posted by The S is Silent 22dodge...good article. But, I'm confused about one thing. It says to always turn the crankshaft in the normal operating direction...but in the positive stop method for finding TDC on piston #1, it says to rotate the engine backwards around to get the second measurement? I'm assuming it's ok to turn the engine backwards like this?

OK heres the deal.. NEVER rotate a complete engine backwards, especially a belt drive cam. you'll notice that they are setting TDC on a v-8 engine w/o the heads.. when I build race 4 cyl.. I find TDC found before I install the head, then I install the head and belt in stock location... then I install my dial indicators and find my cam profile. in my racing days, I would be within ½°.

[The S is Silent]

How far off are the stock TDC marks on our TD motors? It sounds like something that isn't hard to do at all. Is it worth it to take the time and set another reference point for TDC?