A few pics. of my RWD conversion parts

[Mike Radowski]

Very cool.

[ohiorob]

nice work if you didn't know anybetter you would think it came from the factory that way.

[speedy5131981]

hey.. did ya know their is a different mounting brackets from a dakota that work on the 2.2

Quick notes.. mustang 9 in is 61 in. same as exploder 8.8 with disc brakes.
still figuring out what rear end im goin to run in my shelby charger 57 in inside to inside of wheel wells dak power rack is too f'in big, and the angle on the pinion sucks. im keeping my pinto manual on my front end for now ford part :( on a mopar. dak manual isnt much better, mounting locations not good.

[russ jerome]

I like the elevated and modified breather, hate the stock setup.
Did you make "another" timing belt cover, that looks cool!

[gtx440]

Hey KClarryb, looks like one mean machine!!!!! Sorry for the delay in the photos,I didn't see your email? I will try to attach some photos. The ackerman affects the vehicle in turns, so I guess a drag car would be ok-straight line only, once you start turning - strange things start to happen. The Daytona was so bad that the outside wheel in a hard turn(either left or right) was turning harder than the inside wheel, which produces one strange steering wheel effect. The fix was cutting the arm (on the hub)to the steering tie rod and having them arc welded with a high nickel rod by a professional welder. I am a mig guy, so this I farmed out to a pro!!! The bump steer was also a mess that I would align it by eye and flat tow it and within a100 yards the front tires where so far pigeon toed in or out I don't know how the tires actually stayed on the rims!!! A Mustang bump steer kit fixed that, however note the turning radius is not as great as stock, the bump steer kit lowered the tie rods so much that rim interference is present on the really hard turns either way. To say it was discouraging would be an understatement, fix one thing just to find another! Now the car goes nicely in staight lines, a 1/4 at a time, and I can actually make it back to the pits without fighting the steering wheel doing it!!!!!!!!!!!!!
'

[KClarryb]

Gtx440,
It's good to hear from somebody who's "been there done that" and then says how it was done. I've only put abut 70 miles on the car and so far the steering seems OK. I haven't done any high speed cornering yet, mostly around town driving with an eye on the rear view mirror making sure nothing has fallen off :) . I'm running the 1989 big brake knuckles, if I run across another set at the junkyard I may try to improve the Ackerman steering geometry. At least now I know one way to fix it . But I'm not into autocross and for normal street driving so far it seems fine the way it is.

On another note, what engine is in your Daytona 4cyl. or V8? What type of rear suspension? Sounds like you've got all the bugs worked out and have reached the point where all the work was worthwhile .

[KClarryb]

[QUOTE=russ jerome]I like the elevated and modified breather, hate the stock setup.
Did you make "another" timing belt cover, that looks cool!


That's my self draining catch can breather. That spot looks so inviting had to put something there.
Yes I made "another" timing belt cover the other one would not clear the hood and it had a big hole in it with no front motor mount sticking out:) .

[ohiorob]

well Larry how's it feel driving a rwd that once was a fwd? is the motor,turbo and computer the same as before?

[xtrempickup]

looks good, the look reminds me of a Nissan or a Toyota RWD

[gtx440]

Hey Kclarryb, I went with the mopar v-8 mount kit-which is a 3 piece kit. One for the tranny mount which fits exactly between the stock front frame rails in the car, the second is a motor sling which basicly the builder can put anywhere between the frame rails in the engine bay(I put mine far back as possible) and the third replaces the stock suspension mount points with a whole new frame with a large square hole for an oil pan sump. I am running a stroked 360 block auto and shortened 8 3/4 rear. I made a trans tunnel and all the floor from in back of the bucket seats to the tail lite area. I have a comp engineering :( adjustable ladder bar setup. The car is a labor of love. Six pt cage keeps the car actually pretty rigid, she launches straight w/no twisting. Pizza wheels up front and weld drag lites out back with a 10 slick. Its been and will be a work in progress for a long time, Regards Mopar to ya

[KClarryb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ohiorob well Larry how's it feel driving a rwd that once was a fwd? is the motor,turbo and computer the same as before?

Well Rob, I can honestly say I was definatly not comfortable the first time it went sideways . But it's been 10+ years since I've had a RWD car gimme a few weeks I think it will come back to me

I went with a 2.5 this time and also trying a holset HE341 turbo. Still running a FWD Performance stage 5 computer. Cindy's sending me a new cal. for it since it was set up for a 2.2 with smaller injectors.
The engine knocks quite a bit on 92 octane with the 2.2 cal. so I'm waiting for the new 2.5 cal. before I lean on it.

[russ jerome]

Quote:

Originally Posted by KClarryb The engine knocks quite a bit on 92 octane with the 2.2 cal. so I'm waiting for the new 2.5 cal. before I lean on it.

On my 2.2 hybrid that always ran pump gas I rarely ran over 8*
base timing. Seams to me I ran 6/7* base more often than not.
Those numbers with with various 8v cals on a 16v motor so I
was goofy across the board for timing.

[xtrempickup]

sideways in a daytona was no run especiallly a 360 then a 180 and then into a wall backwards. wish it was rwd, might have been able to save it when it started spinning

[daytona 3.0]

what parts did u use for that?

[KClarryb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by daytona 3.0 what parts did u use for that?

Besides the parts in the picture at the start of the thread here's a list of some of the other parts used.
95 Chevy Camaro rear control arms, four of them
92 Mitsubishi eclipse rear struts and springs
92 Mitsubishi eclipse rear brake calipers and complete emergency brake system
89 Chrysler solid rear disk brake rotors
85 Ford mustang brake proportioning valve (looks like it's adjustable anybody ever mess with one?)
85 Volvo lower radiator hose
?? Ford Explorer rear swaybar
Stewart Warner electronic speedometer
2X3" 14 gauge for the rear frame work
2X2" 14 gauge tying the front and rear frames together
1 1/2X3" 11 gauge for the transmission mount crossmember
1 1/2X3" 11 gauge for the engine cradle
A lot of mig wire and welding rods

I tried to use what I had on hand or what was readily available at the junk yard. Since I have two 1G DSM's I tried to use as many of my spare mitsubishi parts as possible :) .