Thank you for the feedback. We've (Kenny and I) have been working hard to make this a bolt in kit for the average guy that doesn't want to hack his car to pieces and doesn't want to worry about all the math to make it.
You can get started on this style rear right now if you want. When I designed and had Kenny make the final version of the rear cross member in this car I had Kenny make a jig so we can make multiples. I'm not sure what Kenny would charge to make you one, but it's a pretty straight forward cross member made out of 2x4" with 1.5x2" frame connectors. The suspension comes from Art Morrison (links, coil overs, and brackets) run about $1300. The axle I use is a 1999-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Dana 44HD ~$250, when narrowed we weld on 8 3/4 axle ends so I can bolt on 11" Willwoods with internal e-brake ~ $720 and both axles have 30 spline axles so it makes ordering narrowed axles pretty easy, I just order axles for a 8 3/4 ~$500. I also use a Spartan locker ~$350. The axle comes with 3:73 which is perfect and if you get a Limited or Overland axle it may already have a factory limited slip. For fuel I use a 16 gallon fuel cell with a Mopar fuel level gage, but honestly I plan to have custom tanks made so we can use our factory fuel pump and fuel level sender. The Hemi's need 40 psi, the factory turbo pump or a neon 225 L/hr pump will be more than enough, but that's a few months away for me.
As far as the floors go you'll have to remove the spare tire well and the portion after the rear seat mounts to the factory rear cross member. I drill out the welds on the factory rear cross member so you can leave that portion of floor.
I've spent roughly $4900 to build the rear you see in these pictures.
I'm attending ILE - Intermediate Leaders Education (I'm an Army Major and this is a required school) so my plan is to revise the front design while here. The changes I want to make from the 88 on Kenny's web site are retain the factory lower control arms, add the rear mount point to have three mount points per side, and try to see if with a front sump pan I can relocate the factory rack and pinion to keep rear steering vs. going to a Dakota rack and front steering.
Quick note about the 5.7 Hemi. I built the first car with a 6.1, it cost $8000 just for the motor!! A used one to boot! The 6.1's have come down some, but 5.7's are $2500-4000!! Way cheaper and in my opinion more than enough power for this little car. If you really want more I'd still buy a 5.7 then stroke it to a 6.4, but based on my experience driving the 6.1 88 Daytona it won't be necessary. I've had A LOT of fast cars and the 88 with the 6.1 and 13" rear tires is down right scary fast. I think the 5.7 with a 10" rear tire I'm building now will still have the giggle factor, but a lot more manageable to drive. At the end of the day you can always go with a stroked LA series small block and make the same power, but it'll cost you ~$5-6000 for that motor. For me the Hemi is 500lbs, makes plenty of power stock ~ 380-390 and is downright cool.
Hope this helps. I've started a excel spreadsheet to track prices and where I'm getting parts. Email me at email@example.com
and I'll share what I have. I'm trying, please keep in mind serving our country is my primary job, but my passion is cars. Everything I have learned I'm more than happy to share. I'm a novice just like you guys and far from having this all professionally packaged up. I really need to build a website that shows all the pictures and prices, but I'm just not there yet.