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3.0 Supercharged Drag Car Build with PICS

30K views 464 replies 21 participants last post by  mopar969 
#1 ·
Okay so it has begun. I am building my 1993 dodge daytona with the 3.0L and 604 trans to be a drag racing machine. It will be a supercharged 3.0L and the 604 will have the 4.28 gear ratio found in the chrylser pacificas. I will post pics tomorrow but below is what I have bought already and what I have done. As well as Issues I and questions I have.

1. I installed hijackers in the rear and installed a kit so I can control each shock separately.

2. The 4.28 gears are bought and are in the process of being put in the only thing I am waiting for is the snap ring pliers I ordered to get the pinion snap ring out.

3. The supercharger was just bought at the junkyard it is the eaton m90, this one came off of a 1990 ford thunderbird super coupe.

Okay so at the moment I want to finish the supercharger aspect of my project first the big problem I have is that I dont weld. So, how can I make a mount to position the supercharge and how should it be positioned so it does not affect how it gets oiled. Maybe somone can sell me one? Should I post in want section doubt to many people did this

Lastly, I want to intercool this setup but the supercharger from the junkyard did not come with a throttle body and i spent money to buy the bigger 58mm throttle body and have the intake ported. How can I set this up so I utilize the port work on the intake manifold??

Also, the louder this thing sounds the better!!!
 

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#2 ·
Dang! Tell me how those gears feel! I'm swapping a 3.8L into my Daytona and I will probably be putting an Eaton M90 on it too. Definitely not going to be dragging it like you, but a mild street machine.

Subscribed!

Also, there's a video of basically your build on YouTube. Not sure how it turned out.

 
#3 ·
Another big challenge I am going to run into is how to install megasquirt so that the cars tcm will work for the 604. Lastly with intercooled boost and the 4.28 gears anyone have predictions what this thing will run E.T. in the 1/4 mile?

Yeah seen the video he doesn't show how it is setup under the hood though!!

As mentioned by big dilemma now is how can I mount this over the rear valve pan cover without the use of a welder?
 
#7 ·
Some what my impression from others advice on here is that a signal goes to the tcm from the motor. All I have to do is keep that going and have the piggy back ecu do the rest. The experts will chime in eventually I am sure. I am still learning.

Hey guys came across this
http://harvii.tripod.com/sooper/final.html

This is perfect for how I should mount the supercharger where can I get the 1/4 inch l beam pieces though? Its not like lowes would have them right? Also why did his only make like 5 psi of boost did he not do an aftermarket ecu? lastly is a bov necessary???
 
#10 ·
I think the reason this guy got a low amount of boost was beause he had an underdrive pulley like Ondonti said. Either that or he had leaks somewhere. I know I did when I first built my setup. Grey permatex is your friend here. Without welding I don't know how far you're really going to get. I welded my setup together. Don't get me wrong though I'm no welder. I bought a harbor freight welder and it worked just fine for this project and a few others.


For the least fab work you want the ford S/C. The GM ones have a built-in bypass but they have a wierd bolt pattern. It will end up being more welding with a GM. The Ford is not as good of a blower, so they say, but it has major advantages in terms of fitment. If you have a grinder and you are good at drilling you should be able to fit the Ford m90 without welding. Go to the hardware store buy a piece of sheet metal and some angle iron and you have what you need. I made my blower attach to the original alternator bracket. Granted this is an 87' van (which has a lot of room in the engine bay) If done just right the piping should fit in any car.

I'm going to tell you this right now before you get any further. If you don't tune it right you WILL blow it up. The stock computer will only get you so far.

EDIT: the guy who made the youtube video was not the same guy that made the website. The guy who made the video is m90daytona and the guy with the website is harvii(who did it first) AFAIK
 
#11 ·
I bought a harbor freight welder and it worked just fine for this project and a few others.

this ^ it wont make the best welds but they will work, getting gas will help alot, i have the 220volt welder and it works but its hard on thin stuff, i would just a 110 welder.

I would think that you can make the tcm work, just find out what signals it needs, im sure it takes tps readings, coolant temp readings, and map sensor readings. What i dont know is if the ecu changes thease signals to a "format" that the tcm can understand, or if the tcm simply is spliced into the signal wires. EDIT: just realized you found some info on that.

Also on the subject of structural metal for the supercharger mount. your best bet is to find a metal suplier in your area. they arnt alwase the easiest to find, but there are more than you would think. If online searches yeild no results, then go to a local welding shop, i guarentee they will have a list of places near you. Metal supliers are way cheeper than any big box stores, and have anything you would need. ask them if they have a cut-off pile, the local metal place by me has a huge cut-off shed, you dont have to pay cutting fees, and often times you can talk them down in price (its all going to get scraped for cheep anyways).
 
#13 ·
Thunderbird super coupes were 3.8Ls with eaton M90s and later GM 3800 SCs were 3.8Ls with eaton M90s. The Ford case design is easier to use in a different car, imo. I've been sitting on one for many many moons for a 3.0 build that has never taken off.
 
#14 ·
Yeah the whole plan with this car is to have a bracket taxi g machine that is street legal. By at the same time i want to show that the 2.2L aren't any better than the 3.0 v6. I plan to use a megasquirt 2 or 3 but wanted to keep stock tcm. I will post as many pics as i canwith this build. I chose to use the 604 due to low gear ratio and the fact computer control should make the car consistent. Thanks for help to fund metal. Next I will get granny pliers I next to do transmission then do sc. Thanks all
 
#16 ·
Okay, so I am working on getting the trans gear ratio swap done first before doing the sc. I went to drop the pan on the trans and was shocked. I found little metal shavings throughout the pan and in the filter. They are visible.

I am shocked because the car and trans are all original with 67,000 miles on them. I had ZERO problems with it shifting at the track or on the road and no issue with reverse. So,I am confused and stunned to see shavings. The original filter from the factory was in it and the original pan was on it. So, can there be shavings in the trans from the factory when they were built since this is the first change of the fluid?
 
#18 ·
I have seen this before. I believe it comes from casting flash. as the trans gets older the casting flash brakes off and finds its way to the pan. also the clutches will produce some trash in the filter too. But I don't believe I have ever seen a trans go bad from it. :shrug:
 
#19 · (Edited)
Oh okay never thought of that. So before I keep working on this trans in everyones opinion since I have no issues with it should I continue with building up this trans with 67,000 miles on it or am I looking at a complete rebuild??

If the trans is good for me to go ahead and do the gear ratio swap can I remove the ring and differential without removing both of the halfshafts since I am doing this swap with the trans in the car?

Also to remove the differential I have to drop the k memeber. Can I maybe remove the front motor mount to move the engine and trans around in order to remove the diff or this is not possible?
 
#20 ·
Sixpackdan supercharged his 3.0 in the late 90's so we all knew about the pulley combinations and different potential boost levels. There was another documented car running a centrifugal blower with torque shaft before this too (that blew up quick, nobody believed in widebands back then).

Harv was doing what was already known but trying to make it a little better since Dan always complained about detonation on the non intercooled setups he had with the high boost stock crank pulley. Harv fixed all those problems with a setup that could be intercooled and he started low boost to avoid problems while figuring things out.
I only went the turbo route because Gus told me in an email he didn't like the efficiency of the supercharger. I had no idea what I was doing in 2002 and he had a fast AA body. Now I do think it would be cool to use a modern high efficiency large displacement screw blower but that requires a lot of $. Would be really cool. That or try used blowers from european cars?
 
#21 ·
You can't change the ring and pinion set without either removing the trasnmission from the vehicle, or removing the k-frame from the vehicle. Either way, you have to get both CV axles out.

Also, i dont feel like the old documentation out there is any good for judging performance levels an m90 setup would be capable of with actual tuning. I trapped faster than that 14.9 slip with a barely modified n/a 3.0.
 
#22 ·
Sweet so I am going to drop the k frame. One more thing the special pliers will be here Tuesday or Wednesday for the pinion snap ring. Once I remove that snap ring do I have to replace it or it only needs replaced if I see damage. What about the axle seals do they need replaced after the halfshaft is removed because I replaced the driver side this summer? Thanks again, I will post more pics later this week around new years day!!!
 
#23 ·
Since I dont want to remove the k frame but simply just drop it so I can get to the diff what do I need to disconnect in order to lower the k frame? I was also trying to avoid getting anew alignment for the front end so I figured I ask but maybe this cannot be avoided?I started to loosen the one k frame bolt on the driver side right around the front fender well but it is really tight and feels like it is going to snap.
 
#24 ·
Alignments are easy to get pretty close with some 4x4s and a tape. Iv alwase found it easyer to remove the engine than remove the k frame. But i have never messed with a dodge k frame.

Also, if it where me, i would put the supercharger on before i did the gearing. There is alwase a good possibility that the engine may need to come out anyways after boost is added.... However i stress that this is what I would do, do it however you want, that is the best part about building your own car, just my 2 cents.
 
#26 ·
"ub3r l33t dud3" why would the engine need to come out after I put boost to it? I dont think the m90 will cause it to blow up. #yougotmenervous though LOL!!

Also, I still think dropping the k member is better cause I have both tie rods off and both halfshafts out. All I need to finish this tranny swap is the k member lowered to get the diff out that is all. Just my opion though.

Lastly what size is the nut in the front k frame bolt metric 16?? The one front side k frame bolt came off but the driver side just keeps spinning so I think the nut came off of that clip.

Latsly, I am doing the tranny swap first because I have practically everything bought to do this mod already. Where the sc mod I still need parts to make bracket, intercooler, and ecu, etc!!

Also what about pinion snap ring can it be reused what should I look for to see if it is damage or need replaced?
 
#29 ·
"ub3r l33t dud3" why would the engine need to come out after I put boost to it? I dont think the m90 will cause it to blow up. #yougotmenervous though LOL!!
Hahaha im sorry, not trying to make you nervous, i get nervous about blowing cars up even if there stock :p ,I dont think you will blow your motor, especally when running megasquirt! I have heard that ms3 has a lean burn shutdown aswell as over boost protection, but a lean burn shutdown circut wouldnt be hard to make with two voltage switches if you dont go with ms3.

Another question, are you planning on upgrading your motor mounts aswell? I think it would be a good idea.
 
#28 ·
Okay so the k frame is dropped I got the diff out. Remember the metal shavings I know why. If you look at the one pic the diff grinded up against the transmisison casing and shaved it a little. This happened because in the driveway this past summer a front motor mount went tilting my engine and trans toward the engine firewall. So it got scratched from the 50 or so feet I had to drive it into the garage.

Now questions are what about the snap ring?
Also, the diffs are very different compared to the pacifica ones. Should I swap the differentials totally or just swap the rings on the diff? The pacifica diff looks really heavy duty because it is solid and you cant see though it but I did not look inside it plus I do not know how many miles are on it where my diff I know it is 67k. So swap rings only? any opinions.
Lastly, I noticed that the transfer gears off the pacifica are slightly smaller in diameter than the ones on the daytona. The ring is slightly larger than the one found in the daytona.
 

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