Resurrection of a beast....

[Reaper1]

Well, it was requested a while ago that I start a thread soley for my new Daytona. Most people that know this car know it as Rick Lozier's car. I have been fortunate enough to be included in the saga of this car by being an owner of it. To say the least I got an extremely good deal on the car.

Work has progressed as such in bringing it back to life.

I started by taking all the electronic gizmoz out. It at one time had a giant stereo in it and what was left over was a jumbled mess of wires and questions. Instead of trying to use what was there and figure out how it worked, I decided to simplify things and go back to basics. I took out the alarm, and the leftover excessive stereo stuff. What I was left with was some nice Boston Acustic Pro speakers in the doors and back along with some Alpine tweats in the doors. I also took out the old Alpine head unit and DSP. I am replacing the head unit with a Pioneer DEH-P7700MP and I "MAY" replace the DSP with a Pioneer unti as well. Time will tell. I have to run an amp for the speakers, so I am in the shopping process of getting one that fits my needs. I am also planning to run a single 12" sub in some sort of sealed enclosure.

I took the seats out to clean the carpet and get better access to the wiring under the dash. While these seats are light and fit the current needs of the car, I may replace them in the future as they aren't very comfortable.

I then started to gather parts to resurrect the beast. Because it has been sitting for 4 years I am leaving no stone unturned. I am replacing all rubber belts and hoses. I am also repacking the rear bearings and am possibly going to upgrade to rear discs and braided brake lines in the future.

Upon replacing the fuel lines I happened in to a problem. It seems that somebody figured it would be OK to clamp -06(3/8") line down to 5/16" and it would be OK! No go here! I am having to redo the fuel system. Because there really isn't any -05 braided line out there I am upgrading the hard line to 3/8" aluminum and going all AN fittings from the tank forward. I am also taking this oppotunity to upgrade the pump in the tank to a 255. This pump is supplemented by the external MSD pump in the back that is mounted in series. I have also come up with a way to upgrade the fuel rail on the engine to accept AN fittings and do away with the stock FPR on the rail. I am retrofitting an older 1990 rail to the engine and it will be modified to accept said AN fittings. Pictures of this will come in time. I am just hoping that the return line is going to be able to handle the extra volume of fuel that will be provided by the twin pump set-up. If not, I'm going to have to use the origional 5/16" pressure side as the return...I may do that anyways...time will tell.

For now that's where it stands as school is taking up my time at the moment. After the semester is over I will have a lot more time to focus on this project and get it back on the road. Unfortunatly it is a bit more work than I anticipated, but it is still well worth it IMHO. I will update this as more gets done....

[LynX853]

I would think that a walbro 255 alone is more then enough to get the job done? why make things more complicated with 2 pumps?

[Ondonti]

use the 5/16 as a return. I bought one to replace my 1/4 return line so I can run super low pressure.

When I need more fuel then my 255 can deliver, Im pretty sure Im gonna add a 255 inline.

Hey, could you explain how his nitrous system taps the fuel system. I was thinking that when the nitrous hit, you would momentarilly lose fuel pressure and that would cause a lean condition..............

[roguetrip]

car sounds like a nightmare

Can't believe it didn't already have the rear performance disc package from factory, my 1990 ES have them, but need stinking rear caliper brackets since the pads have worn into them and cause grinding and not so good braking right now

wish i lived closer to inspect the car and whats been done to it. But pics will follow soon i guess.

As for time, i know what ya mean. but good luck getting the daytona back on the road!

[crazyace]

Keep up the good work man. As with any FWD Mopar it is a labor of love, although most times it is much more labor than love. LOL.

[Ondonti]

There is a lot of love from me.........sometimes its just that the car doesnt love me back.

[crazyace]

Nah man, they just have an odd way of showing it. They are like women, they break so we have to pay attention to them. LMAO.

[Reaper1]

The car isn't as bad as it sounds, just that it's taking a bit more than pumping good gas in it and hitting the key.

I beleive I'll take the advise of using the 5/16" return...I think in the end it'll be for the better.

As far as the 255 meeting the needs..it may, but it already had the MSD installed #1, #2 this thing is going to flow a LOT of fuel when the nitrose kicks in...150-shot(not to mention the engine going full bore), so it's a safety thing, and #3 the Haltech is wired to the MSD pump...I have to figure out how the in tank pump is wired(remember, no SBEC to run the ASD)...I may have to redo that...




As far as how the fuel side is plumbed in for the nitrose...REALLY simple. It is T-d off of the main pressure line in the engine bay. One side of the T goes to the fuel rail, the other goes to the fuel solenoid for the nitrose system.

[Ondonti]

Thats my worry then, that when the nitrous hits, the rail pressure drops for a moment and you go lean........If its not that big of a deal, I might invest in a setup one of these days. My turbo is gonna stop being any fun after 700whp

[Harvii]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti Thats my worry then, that when the nitrous hits, the rail pressure drops for a moment and you go lean........If its not that big of a deal, I might invest in a setup one of these days. My turbo is gonna stop being any fun after 700whp

Turdbo will stop being fun after 700 WHP????!!!!?!?! Hell I'd think it would stop being fun after about 300whp on street tires. If you're hooking and not destroying things(axles, trannies, clutches) at 700whp I'd love to see your time slips =).

I think 700whp would be enough to keep the slix lit all the way down the 1/4.

[roguetrip]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti Thats my worry then, that when the nitrous hits, the rail pressure drops for a moment and you go lean........If its not that big of a deal, I might invest in a setup one of these days. My turbo is gonna stop being any fun after 700whp

I want to see u hit 700WHP on a chrysler 3.0 V6! Don't know but thats gonna be a tons of work to make it reliable

[Reaper1]

Well...honestly my eventual goals for a Über 3.0 are in the 750hp range...but deffinatly NOT for the street. It will be built for high end, continuous running...Silver State Classic style!!! One way or another I WILL have a 200mph Daytona!!!

[Reaper1]

BTW, as far as momentary pressure drop as the nitrose hits...#1 that's why you run a nitrose controller to "soften" the hit, and #2 I have an overabundance of fuel at the ready...I don't think it's going to be an issue!

[Ondonti]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harvii Turdbo will stop being fun after 700 WHP????!!!!?!?! Hell I'd think it would stop being fun after about 300whp on street tires. If you're hooking and not destroying things(axles, trannies, clutches) at 700whp I'd love to see your time slips =). I think 700whp would be enough to keep the slix lit all the way down the 1/4.

Yeah, right now I just have a set of 24.5x8 MT's on 15" rims. The motor should be able get dang near handling it. 700whp is about where I would stop trusting the stock rods though.

[Reaper1]

In the last picture I don't have the seats in because I was finishing taking the extraneous wiring aout and cleaning the carpet...

The engine as it was delivered. Remember it's been sitting for 4 years and I haven't cleaned it yet...


Rear of engine from driver's side....note custom headers. Yes, I know the nitrose solenoids aren't hooked up. The Jacob's Mastermind was uninstalled when the Haltec was put in. I think it may end up going back on.


rear bank header


rear bank header and dipstick


front bank header from passenger's side of car...you can also see the adjustable cam gear. To my knowledge these are the only set of RPW gears in the country and are some of the first they produced...


front bank header from passenger's side of car